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I keep a ton of 1″ mild-steel square tube in the shop, ’cause it’s pretty much the basic building block for most home fabrication projects. And I’ve spent waaaay too much time either cutting and notching tube to close up ends or making ugly corners. Wouldn’t it be so much easier to be able to miter the corners like you would a piece of wood? You can, it seems, with the Evolution Rage 3.

It’s built pretty much like standard wood miter saws, with two big changes: First, it spins at around 2,500 RPM instead of 3,500+ like wood saws. Second, Evolution fits it with their special Rage blade, which they claim will plow through steel, aluminum, and wood. Specifically, their website claims the saw/Rage blade combination will produce up to 750 cuts in “mild steel box section.”

Tech specs are what you’d expect in a 10″ saw: a max cut depth of 3″ at 90 degrees or 1-9/16″ at 45-degrees, and a max cut width of 11-13/16″ at 90-degrees and 8-1/4″ at 45 degrees. Evolution lists a duty cycle for it, too, at 30 minutes. It’s not exactly quiet, though, checking in at a claimed 98 dB(A) under load.

Street pricing seems to vary wildly, but expect to pay in the $300-$400 range for the saw itself and anywhere from $30-$65 for replacement blades. (At least Sears carries them, so if you needed one in a pinch it looks like you can get blades locally. Still, online prices look a lot cheaper.)

10″ TCT Multipurpose Sliding Miter Saw [Evolution]
Street Pricing
[Google Products]
Street Pricing (Replacement Blades) [Google Products]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]


11 Responses to Miter-Cut Steel Tube

  1. mike says:

    I have one of these, and I love it. I’ve only ever used it for cutting mild steel square tubing (1-2″). Makes a clean cut, have never needed to “tune up” a cut to be able to make a square or 45 degree intersection. Requires almost no pressure to use their blades. There are other vendors of blades like theirs, but this saw has an odd sized arbor. It DOES throw tiny metal shavings everywhere, much more so than a band saw, but it does such a great, fast job, it’s worth it.

  2. fred says:

    We use a DoAll horizontal bandsaw for this purpose in the shop. We do have an Evolution circular saw and one with the Morse Name on it that we use for cutting metal roof decking. What we like about the roof decking application – is that this model saw doesn’t scatter metal shards all over – but seems to do a fair job of capturing them


  3. Mike says:

    Cool looking saw, but not necessary to make miter cuts. Why not make a miter cut with an abrasive chop saw? Most of them that I’ve seen can angle up to 45 degrees. Or use a speed square for a layout line and a recip saw to cut? Or an angle grinder with a cut off wheel? Or a circ saw with and abrasive cut off blade? I’ve made miter cuts in steel with all of them, plus a couple others.

  4. Michael says:

    I want a steel saw that will do compound miters. The times I’ve had to do them I stuck an abrasive wheel in my table saw and there have to be simpler ways to do this.

  5. Cameron Watt says:

    I used a similar one in a fabrication shop a few years ago and while they’re lovely to run we found it to be the most expensive way to cut steel.

    Those special triple chip blades were close to $200 each and several were needed in order to keep working while the dull ones were in the saw filer’s shop.

    Stainless would dull them in short order but guys kept doing it and repeatedly killing blades….but that’s a management issue, not a saw one 😛

    …but they were sure nice from an operator’s perspective.

    Watch out when clamping , especially stack cuts, with this type of machine. What will make work chatter or jump with an abrasive chop saw will be chewed and spat out by a toothed one….then it’s a trip to the saw filer’s shop.

    By the way: For aluminum a regular miter saw and a cheap carbide blade do a fine job. I do most of my aluminum cutting with a skill saw.

  6. SuperJdynamite says:

    “Why not make a miter cut with an abrasive chop saw?”

    Abrasive blades are great for the occasional cut but they’re pretty slow. They also produce a great deal of dust as the abrasive is worn away. I imagine the dust might be prohibitive in a production or occupational exposure scenario.

    I find that overall abrasive blades work but are never the ideal. I can see where somebody who did a lot of fabrication would want something better.

  7. Cameron Watt says:

    Anywhere I’ve used an abrasive chop saw was already a dusty, messy place.

    In a small fabrication shop doing production, we found that a horizontal band saw was the cheapest way to cut metal tubing. If the operator is gentle he won’t go through too many blades, he can be given another minor task to do while waiting for longer cuts and all the swarf goes into the coolant sump.

    But….cost aside, this type of saw is nice to use.

  8. Mr. Mike says:

    I cut aluminum struts, and steel too from time to time. I use Morse Metal Devil blades and recommend them for clean and COOL cuts. I put a 9″ blade in an old Ryobi Mitersaw and it works great as a regular cutoff tool for aluminum. I have also made a simple sled jig and used the 7 1/4″ blade in a circular saw for cutting steel channel. Lots of sparks but Oh so fast and cool!


  9. fred says:

    @ Mr. Mike:

    We use Morse baldes in our 9 inch Evolution saw – that I mentionned we use for cutting roof decking – work great

  10. Bart Dring says:

    I did a 1:1 comparison with a high end cold saw vs. the Rage 2 (I have both) for cutting aluminum extrusion. Hands down in all categories, the Rage 2 beat the cold saw. The finish was almost perfect and there was no burr on the Rage 2. The speed was higher and there was no cleanup of the cutting fluid. See the pictures here


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