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Over the last few years, we’ve seen Bosch roll out saws left, right, and backwards that address contractors’ aches and pains. They’ve got badass sliding/miter saws and table saws alike. What they rolled out last month is a 10” portable table saw that has an 18” capacity and a four horsepower motor that spins up to 5000rpm.

Watching the video from Bosch, the saw looks like the neatest thing since sliced bread, bells, and whistles. It fits in less than a two-foot space lengthwise and is an inch over 1’ width standing up, which works out great for hauling it in a truck. One-handed carry of its 45 lb. curb weight makes it reasonable to lug around. The saw guard is easy to snap in and out, which is good since that’s often the first casualty after being hauled up a flight of stairs or through a doorway on a jobsite.

So let’s look at it from a cost perspective: The street pricing runs in the neighborhood of about $400. Say you’d like the handy locking stand that is built for it as well — that will set you back about $80. So for the entire rig you’re looking at around $500. A Makita or DeWalt setup of the same style will hit you for about $500-$700, so what you’re really getting here is Bosch’s latest system with all the convenience of their compact chassis system and high-end motor at the same cost as the current offerings.

Is it enough of a difference to run out and dump your old saw? Probably not. If you’re a contractor on site and your rig is humming along, keep trucking. But should it quit or come time to upgrade, take a look at the Bosch, compare, contrast, and check it against the multitude of branded competitors. From everything we’ve seen from Bosch in the last couple years, it’s going to be worth your time.

Bosch GTS1031 Portable Table Saw [YouTube]
GTS1031 Portable Table Saw [Bosch Website]
Street Pricing [Google Products]

 

17 Responses to Bosch’s GTS1031 Portable Table Saw: Worth Upgrading?

  1. Jason says:

    4HP motor? I think not, unless you have a 240v or 30A outlet handy. I wish there was some more accurate method of claimed motor “strength.”
    I have the Bosch 4000, and love it (it claims 4.4hp). The only problem is that given the aluminum top, you can’t use magnetic accessories.

  2. DoItRite says:

    I’m with @Jason here.
    Seems like there is “Horsepower Inflation” going on here. I pretty sure that with the best motor you could get with 15 amps at 120 volts is about 3/4 HP. Even that would trip a 20 amp breaker under enough load.

    That being said, I do like Bosch table saws. I’ve had my BT3000 for around 20 years. It’s on its second motor and about a half-dozen couplings, but other than that it works like its first day out of the box: smooth, well balanced and accurate. Come to think of it, I’m still on the original blade, although it has seen a few specialized blades and dado through the years.

    They’re not too honest claiming 4.4 HP on this one though.

  3. Roadpizza says:

    I’m with Jason andDoItRite; 4 horsepower is just not possible with a 120 outlet @ 15 amps. Other than that it looks like a good rig, and the price isn’t too horrible.

  4. zor says:

    It does look like a great tool. Horsepower: they need to consider the class action lawsuit brought against mower engine manufacturers. That $65 million debacle brought us the term “torque power” instead of “horse power” on our small engines. It is in their best interest to keep the fantasy marketing guys away from their spec sheets and stick to the good things they do.
    http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/04/21/AR2010042104737.html

  5. Mike says:

    I have to agree with the other commenters–4hp is what turned me off. It pretty much says I won’t be able to use this saw everywhere I go. I also get spoiled by a nice big T-Square style fence that’s rock solid and true every time…the fences on these portable systems don’t quite cut it for me.

  6. fred says:

    Even if the motor were 100% efficient it would have to draw about 25 Amps at 120V to produce 4HP
    This idea of rating an electric motor at some current rating that would have it and your wiring smoking is just not realistic and doesn’t fool anyone. When I look at a motor nameplate – I check wattage or amp rating

  7. Phil says:

    While “4hp” makes for great marketing, it’s not entirely realistic. I’m sure the motor on that saw can develop almost that amount of power for a couple seconds, and that’s where these big macho numbers come from. However, it’s not something the saw would be able to develop in less-than-ideal conditions. Plugging the saw into a stout circuit with a 20 amp breaker is a start, and that horsepower peak would only be reached for a few moments as you powered through a tough knot or something else that would bog the saw down. A 20 amp circuit can deliver 100% overload for a few seconds without any problem, the breaker is rated to carry such loads for surges such as motor starting (and overloads) for several seconds, and the associated wiring is more than capable as well. Unfortunately, the small universal motors used in such machinery can only take such abuse for a few seconds at best; anyone who has ever overloaded a power drill for more than a little bit (no pun intended) is familiar with the smell of overheated motor windings.

    Take that saw to your typical jobsite and things are even less ideal. The saw is likely going to be powered from way too many extension cords of insufficient size, and/or powered from a portable generator. There goes the ability to have a solid power source to the tool, and with it, the big horsepower peak. Even developing nominal power becomes difficult if not impossible, and the motor must work even harder just to deliver enough power for mildly difficult cuts. About the only true value such “Max” ratings have is a rough guess of the robustness of the motor and it’s ability to deliver real-world power under less-than-ideal conditions.

  8. Looking on the site they say the saw runs on 15A and max HP is 4.0. They aren’t inflating anything, they are just choosing to list their max HP. If they would have said the saw’s continuous HP was 4.0, then we’d have a problem.

    This is just another case of specsmanship — they are just trying to make their specs look better. It’s hard to find a company that doesn’t do this in one way or another. That’s why it’s important to do your research when you are comparing tools.

    When I was looking at compressors, I did notice that a few manufacturers actually did inflate the stated HP to the peak HP number. That is a no-no.

    For reference:
    The theoretical maximum HP for a 120V 15A circuit is 1800W/746(W/HP) = 2.4HP.

    I found the max continuous HP for a 15A@120V compressor was about 1.6HP. Which means if they are telling the truth, the best efficiency is about 66%.

    The theoretical max for 120V@20A is 2400W or 3.2HP, given 66% eff, that is 2.1HP.

  9. Daniel says:

    I’ve got a Ridgid R4516 that can rip at 24″ if ever need it… I thought that maybe this “revolutionary” new Bosch would be half the weight, so I checked and it’s only 3lbs. lighter…

    I’m not really very impressed because I know the Bosch will always be $75 more than a comparable saw…

  10. Ross says:

    Kind of like the Dewalt 745 but more expensive with 2″ more rip capacity that I won’t use.

  11. mickeyrat says:

    Bosch is German so maybe they are talking Ur-A-Peeing 220V hp,just a thought

  12. Julian Tracy says:

    Jeez guys – lot of piss coming from everyone here. So F$%^ing what about HP ratings – you guys all just wake up and find out HP ratings were bs?

    Where’ve you been – it’s long since been revealed. Everyone knows you just look at amps and when it comes to large mitersaws or portable tablesaws, they are all 15amps.

    No one’s mentioned what is probably more important to possible buyers – that is, what’s different about it other than size from it’s larger cousin, the 4100.

    I’ve heard the motor isn’t soft start and it doesn’t have the electronic feedback controlling the speed at different loads.

    That the motor’s a simpler design than the 4100 might also make it a bit louder, the 4100 motor isn’t really that loud of a screamer.

    Yea, aluminum tops – another revelation; again, they all do, right?

    JT

  13. Julian Tracy says:

    Also looks like it can accommodate a built in router table like the 4000 and 4100, as shown here:
    http://juliantracy.com/Bosch%20Tablesaw/

    That gives it a leg up compared to the Dewalt saws – their design doesn’t even allow the possibility of doing that without major mods.

    The Bosch fence rails’ design make it a simple drop in solution.

    JT

  14. Brau says:

    All this talk about 4HP … Hmm … gives me an idea … something about powering it with my old B&S lawnmower engine and making a truly cordless tablesaw!

  15. Rick says:

    I’m unimpressed.

  16. rick says:

    @ Julian Tracy – NO this saw (GTS1031) can’t accommodate a built in router table like the 4000 and 4100 – the open space is much to narrow.

    About this saw: No motor soft start. Relatively small table surface, need to open the table for any cut over 10″ (10-18″). Worst, the insert (throat plate) is made of relatively thin flat piece of metal that easily bend at the middle. This insert is not the same as the 4100 or 4000′ insert. And forget about making your own insert.

    • tom says:

      The gts 1031 looked nice when I bought it. I used it for a week light use the insert bent so when ripping thin trim, guess what happens it stops dead. Piece of shite for the money. The table saw looks years old and its only about 8 months old.
      I had the chance to return it but felt I didn’t give it enough time. I called up Bosch they told me it has been in Europe for a few years and no problems…. I think not! This saw is a dog… sounds rough on the start the fence needs to be adjusted frequently. I have three Makita table saws I use with aux tables. Much better set-up IMHO… I don’t like yellow tools but I wished I changed mine when I had the chance…

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