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Scrapers work well for removing glue, paint, and other finishes, but not every surface is flat. For cleaning up curved surfaces, a scraper that can accept blades with different curved profiles would come in handy.

The WoodRiver scraper set from WoodCraft comes with five different blades: a straight blade for flat surfaces; 1/2″, 7/8″, and 1-1/4″ concave blades for convex surfaces like chair legs; and a 1-1/2″ convex blade for concave surfaces. The head is made of cast iron and the 5-1/4″ long handle and forward knob are made of hardwood. The forward knob pulls double duty, allowing you to apply more pressure when you’re scraping, and it unscrews for blade changes.

The scraper and blades come in a wooden storage case to keep them together and protect the blades. You’ll pay $33 plus shipping for the scraper set.

Scraper Set [Woodcraft]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

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6 Responses to A Scraper For All Occasions

  1. Liz V says:

    Do you use something like this to take veneer that is bubbling Off?

  2. Gary says:

    Seems like they’re recommending it for finishing curved surfaces. Chair seats, chair legs etc.

    I think Lee Valley makes something similar.

    Counter to the description above, you wouldn’t want to apply a whole lot of pressure. And a scraper will work somewhat without a burr on the edge, but it’s much more effective with a burr (on the opposite face of the bevel) when used in a pull-stroke.

  3. @Gary:

    The video and the description seem to be at odds. I trusted the description and thought this was more of a paint/finish scraper, while the video I failed to watch the first time (I swear I didn’t see it there yesterday) talks about using it for finishing. Maybe it can be used effectively for both. Sorry about the confusion.

    I misread the description. The front handle isn’t for increasing pressure, but increasing the control of the amount of pressure. Good catch on that one.

  4. Fong says:

    For removing tooling marks on turned pieces or chiseled profiles, I can see how a scraper is faster than pure sand paper. Wouldn’t you still need to sand after scraping to remove the lighter but still noticeable scrape marks?

    @ Liz V, not for bubbling veneer. To remove old veneer, apply heat to the edge with a heat gun and use a putty knife to pry it off.

  5. Jay says:

    @Fong – Many fine furniture and musical instrument makers are a knife-only type of operation. When in the right hands, a knife instrument will produce the best possible finish on a particular type of wood.

    I was speaking with a Guitar maker in Barcelona and he showed me the finish that 2000 grit paper produced in his guitars. He also showed me the finish produced with a knife-type tool and the difference was easy to see.

    If you think about it, do you normally sand after a piece of wood has traveled through the planer or joiner? Those are knife-type tools, just mechanized.

  6. Gary says:


    FWW did a comparison of sandpaper to a planed finish a few years back. They didn’t go up to 2000 grit – maybe 320 or 400? They said it was virtually the same.

    Maybe it’s my imagination, but I disagree. I think a planed (hand plane) surface looks and feels better and is also more lustrous so shows a finish better.


    I still go through a finishing process after using a planer, sometimes sandpaper, or a scraper or a smooth plane – or a combination. Personally, I don’t think a board coming out of a planer is ready for finish – but I also have a shelix head in my planer, so I can get lines.

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