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A couple of sawhorses and a sheet of plywood make a handy table, but if you put too much weight on the middle, it’ll start to sag.¬†Rockler has come up with some brackets that slip over the saw horses and hold another 2×4 or two for supporting the middle of the table.

Rockler also includes screws for securing the brackets to the sawhorses, which’ll probably get lost anyway. I don’t see why some general purpose constructions screws wouldn’t work just as well.

A four-pack of steel brackets runs around $13.

Saw Horse Supports [Rockler]

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11 Responses to Saw Horse Supports Make Better Work Tables

  1. Doug says:

    Looking at the design, the screw seem overkill altogether. Simple friction, via a quick squeeze of that channel where the screw is designed to pass through, and the weight of the “tabletop” would probably suffice to keep the bracket positioned on the saw horse securely enough for temporary use.

  2. Steve says:

    I just drive screws in from the sides. The disadvantage of those supports is that you cannot just cut through sheet goods and into the tops of the 2x4s. You risk hitting one of the supports with your circular saw.

  3. Gil says:

    Why can’t one just use normal joist hangers?

  4. Jerry says:

    I’m with Gil – joist hangers!
    Besides, if you are doing this on a job site, I could visualize those brackets being easily lost or misplaced. And if a cheap joist hanger gets lost? You likely have a batch of them in your truck anyway.

  5. Mike47 says:

    Thumbs up to Gil. Why pay extra bucks for a fancy-dancy powder-coated version of a Simpson Stong-Tie joist hangar ?

  6. IronHerder says:

    I use 2X4s between sawhorses for the same purpose, but I made cross-halved joints to keep the boards together. Easy to knock apart when done, easy to store, easy to re-assemble. And there are no metal brackets waiting to be hit with a circular saw.

    The basic idea was published in Family Handyman magazine, but I couldn’t find the specific reference using Google. I modified their original suggestion by using the 2X4s on edge, not flat. Also, instead of permanently mounting notched 2X4s onto my sawhorses, I secure separate notched 2X4s to the sawhorses with wing nuts and hanger bolts (screw threads into the 2X4, bolt threads through the sawhorse).

    If anyone wants, I can post pics in the toolmonger flickr pool.


  7. IronHerder says:

    There is a good drawing of a cross halved joint on this website, in the section on halved joints. Look at the illustration in the upper right corner.


    It took me 30 minutes research on the internet to find a name for the joint that I made, but I don’t know if all that I found is the British name for it.


  8. fred says:

    I’m not sure that this is being marketed so much for use as a sawhorse add-on as it is being touted as an alternative dining or buffet table – using your sawhorses, a plywood sheet and a few 2×4 ‘s to set it up.

  9. Kyle says:

    This is a nice idea, It seems like it will be pretty sturdy and would have problem with it falling apart

  10. Brau says:

    I like the design.
    It’s also very easy to duplicate using an oversize joist hanger.
    Guess what I’ll be doing soon?!

  11. Bob says:

    I have pretty much the same setup that Ironherder is describing. Only difference is I built covers for the tops of plastic sawhorses out of 2×4 & plywood sides. The crossed member frame sits on top of those.

    Works great and easy to store in a corner between uses.

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