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It may not happen often, but sometimes you need to make a cut flush with the edge of your saw — you might be in a tight space or there’s some obstruction in the way preventing you from completing the cut. This is no problem with a hand saw, but it’s almost impossible with a tool like a jigsaw where the blade can be over an inch away from the edge of the shoe. That’s where a flush cut blade like DeWalt’s DW3311 comes in handy.

Made in the USA, the 4″ T-shank style blade fits Bosch and DeWalt saws. The 11-tooth-per-inch blade has a 3″ cutting length. The body is thick to minimize deflection, and we’re guessing the relief holes are probably for clearing chips, keeping the blade cool, or reducing the mass of the blade. You’re not going to cut tight circles with this blade chucked into your jigsaw, but it will let you cut to the front of your jigsaw’s shoe if the blade is less than 1-1/4″ away from the edge.

Other companies like Mibro and Vermont American sell similar products, but pricing for Dewalt’s version of the flush cut jigsaw blade starts at $7 before shipping, according to Google Products.

Flush Cut Jigsaw Blade [DeWalt]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Flush Cut Jigsaw Blade [McFeely’s]

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8 Responses to Make Flush Cuts With Your Jigsaw

  1. kyle says:

    that is pretty cool and may even help with keeping cuts striaghter

  2. john says:

    Or, just use a handsaw…
    seems some products really are for the folks who don’t think

  3. Blair says:

    A different tooth design, but the principle has been around for quite awhile, hadn’t really considered one for rip cuts though. Then again I don’t do a lot of rips with a saber saw.

  4. Lincoln says:

    I use this blade all the time to start the cut on internal cutouts in sheet goods.

    With this blade in place, up-end the jigsaw, align it along one of the straight edges of the hole you are cutting. Fire up the jigsaw and rotate the jigsaw down into the sheet good. While you are doing this you move it slightly forward as you carve out the start cut that you can now use a standard blade to finish.

    if the cutout you are making is too small, you will have to use the drill and a larger drill bit to get the starter hole — the method above needs about 2″ of space to get through the sheet.

    This method uses the same tool (jigsaw) for the starter holes as the final cutting. If the hole has all straight edges you don’t need to switch out the blade, you can just use it to finish all cuts (no back and forth between jigsaw and drill).

  5. Jason says:

    I was pretty sure that said flesh cuts the first two times I read it.

  6. Blair says:

    @ Lincoln, when doing sink type cutouts, we usually use a 1″ paddle bit inside the cutout lines in each corner.
    This not only allows us to make the cutout, but also shoot a 2″-3″ rock screw into the cutout part, supporting it on the counter edge. This way allows one man to make large cutouts, without having to support the blank from the underside with one hand, or have the blank fall through the hole.

  7. Mr P says:

    awsome used a few times modifing countertops, shelf and desks with out dismateling. But now i have a multi master so dont really know witch way I would go now

  8. browndog77 says:

    Finally! I have one of these for my old craftsman scrolling jig-saw, and it is great for finishing a to-the-wall cut-out in a counter or floor. Never could find one w/ the Bosch end, though, so this will be an up & coming purchase!

    @ lincoln – Starting a cut in the manner you describe can be done with almost any good blade, with the saw set up properly. Just drag your tool back slightly as you plunge. (don’t try it with reverse teeth, though!)

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