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If you’re like me, you’ve got a box full of wood hole saws. But if you’re an electrician (or the complete tool geek), you’ll want a set of metal hole saws, too. And Greenlee’s got a new set they say cuts 30% faster, lasts longer, and has more features than the competition. So how the hell does that work?

First, they’ve tossed in a variable pitch sawblade, in this case a 4-6. (I use a 12-16 on my metal bandsaw, and it’s awesome, riding that perfect line between low-count blow-through-the-thick-stuff and higher-count please-don’t-hang-on-the-edge-of-tubing.) And they’ve hardened the teeth to keep ’em sharp longer. They say their oxide finish prevents chip buildup as well, but that seems pretty common to me.

Feature-wise you’re looking at a quick-change arbor with a really nice-looking knurled grip — as well as a removable depth stop.

Individual saws start at around $8 and range up to around $50, but you can find three-piece and five-piece kits, too, from around $150 including the arbor and all the goodies.

New Hole Saws [Greenlee, warning: PDF Link]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

 

12 Responses to Greenlee’s New Metal Hole Saws

  1. Jerry says:

    Not having tried these new saws, it’s difficult to say that they are better than the previous Greenlee versions. My personal experience with Greenlee metal-cutting hole saws has been very favorable. I tried to save a few dollars by purchasing other brands – some well-known ones – and soon discovered that other folks working on the same huge project were drilling far more quickly that I was and were not tossing out the hole saws after several holes. I quickly discovered that those people were using Greenlee saws. I ended up leaving the job site to purchase Greenlee saws. The rest of the project went smoothly and the Greenlee’s held up very well.

  2. Eric says:

    For us, the answer for fast holes in metal stud for wiring has always been a stud punch. If someone with a drill can even come close to the speeds we get with a punch I’ll eat the darned thing. And for the kind of low-energy work that we do (ie, non-armoured cable), you can even get matching sized bushings to protect the wire that install in moments (and into the pre-existing cutouts common to some steel studs).

  3. Jerry says:

    I guess I should have mentioned that, although Greenlee is usually associated with electrical construction, the project we were working on was drilling out steel-clad doors to add deadbolt locks in an existing office structure. The average hole saws could do about 2 doors before they began to smoke and burn. The Greenlees kept cutting all day – I did use 2 though so when one felt like it was getting too warm, I swapped them out.

  4. fred says:

    Interesting post – maybe we’ll try some of the Greenlee brand.
    We go through a lot of hole saws for cutting steel skins on doors, decking etc.. My normal supplier usually provides us with Starrett or MK Morse branded saws. But we’ve often needed to supplement what we carry with spot buys at the local big box. If its Lowes – we end up with Lenox (Newell-Rubbermaid) – and if its Home Depot we end up with Ridgid (these are made by Kennametal who also markets ones under the Blu-Mol and Disston brands). For sheet metal – my guys tell me that they like some of the newer Bosch holesaws that designed for this application – although we prefer punching holes (just better productivity) in steel stud andy nearly everywhere else where we have access to both sides of the sheetmetal to use a punch.
    We’s also been using the carbide tooth holesaws made by Bosch, Lenox and Milwaukee on abrasive materials like fiber cement siding. We also carry Lenox diamond grit holesaws for tile – and Morse carbide grit holesaws for things like cast iron. For most wood applications – we’re plumbers at our heart – and stick with selfeed bits.

  5. Eric R says:

    They don’t make a punch for 2x4s ???
    🙂

  6. WilsonR says:

    @Jerry: what other brands of holesaw are you referring to that don’t do the job as well as Greenlee in metal or wood? I’m interested because I’ve got a few jobs coming up drilling a lot of holes in wood, especially. Some in mild steels.

  7. Eric says:

    @Eric R: I think so, but they’re called shotguns and the hole just isn’t as clean as a hole saw would be 🙂

  8. fred says:

    @ WilsonR

    If your planning on a lot of holes in wood framing – you should think about selfeed bits. Milwaukee is the brand of these that seems to be the most ubiquitous

  9. fritzgorbach says:

    Definitely Lennox or Milwaukee selfeed type bits for lots of holes in wood. Chew it up way faster than a holesaw, and then you dont have the depth problem, and you dont have to fight that stupid slu out either.
    As for metal, I drill a lot of steel, and I use either ridgid or lennox hole saws, and I have never had a complaint. Most people think pretty highly of starrett also, but I;ve never used one. Ridgid is quite convenient cause I can stop at depot and grab any size.

  10. ZAW says:

    My experience Green Lee Products in cutting and drilling is not too good. I have two of their wire cutters and they worn out quickly. Only thing I like from them are fiber fish rods.

  11. Eric R says:

    A shotgun slug might not be that bad of a hole…… at least in the first stud

    @ ZAW Those fish stix are nice. I don’t need em very often but when you do they are nice to have. They also make a cable shooter for use usually over drop ceillings

    http://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=6186

  12. Darrell says:

    I install a lot of door hardware and go thru
    many Hole Saws. Quite frankly, I spent
    a lot on them. I need a good strong lasting Saw
    and was told the Greenlee has some that would
    do the trick. the doors are Steel doors
    and most are double steel lined or Blast Doors. any ideas????

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