The latest Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN Volume 41, Number 3, March 2010) has a short article on Oetiker ear clamps and installation tools. TM has covered the ClampTite tool before (TM 12/24/06), and its use for making hose clamps. The MCN article indicates that neither the ClampTite nor worm-drive hose clamps may be suitable for high-pressure fuel-injection hoses, and that the Oetiker ear clamps are a better choice in this situation.
As shown above, Oetiker makes ear clamps in several varieties. The installation tool pictured is Oetiker’s model 14100083 “pincer with side jaws for use where space is restricted.” This tool is apparently made for Oetiker by Knipex (the Knipex model is 1099 or 1099i), and is available online for around $21. The ear clamps, depending on type and material, are available for less than $1 in single quantities, and start around $25 in packages of 25 to 100. Kits with a variety of clamps are also available; some kits include an installation tool.
Have Toolmongers used Oetiker clamps and installation tools? What’s your opinion? Do you have preferred alternatives?
Oetiker Ear Clamps [Manufacturer’s Site]
Oetiker 14100083 [Google Products]
Oetiker Ear Clamps [Google Products]
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19 Responses to Oetiker Ear Clamps And Tools
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Does anybody know if this is the type of clamp Mercedes-Benz (and probably BMW) use from the factory on certain junctions like the fuel filter inlet and outlet? It’s some kind of clamp for which I’ve not been able to find a replacement (I’ve always used “regular” screw-type hose clamps). I’ve found online references to the fact that you can’t get replacements, but I don’t believe that. I’m pretty sure some form of these “ear clamps” (the ones with multiple tabs?) are the ticket.
Don’t know about cars, but the MCN article claims “Made in Germany, these clamps are the same OEM type used on many motorcycles…”
@ bdstevens
These are in fact the same type and style of replaceable clamps merc & bmw use. both mcmaster.com & chadstoolbox.com sell them
These clamps are indeed the bee’s knees. While they are single-use, they clamp tighter, and most of them provide full 360 clamping. Except the far left one in the photo above. That means no space for leaks to develop.
I love using them on my beer draft setup – quick and easy and never leak. Faster to apply than screw clamps. And fairly easy to remove.
They are indeed awesome. I was introduced to them from a friend who did installs for Pepsi, and hey gave me a few for a draft setup I had. I used my end nipper pliers to install them too, just had to be careful not to squeeze too hard.
Oetiker was founded and is headquartered in Switzerland, just south of Zurich.
I have a set and find in indispensible. I like them particularly for air lines since they do not get easily caught on corners like a worm drive clamps. II used them for all my automotive applications.
Interestingly, I recently read an article that discussed the spring type clamps, which the Oetiker clamp would apply, versus the worm type clamp for automotive use. Conventional wisdom could concluded this shift from worm clamps to spring clamps was a cost cutting move. Not so. It was a leak issue. Based on the engineering characteristics, the spring clamp applies a consistent force. So as a component heats and cools, a consistent pressure is applied. Whereas, this is less so with a worm clamp. It is dependent upon mechanical properties, thus when heat is applied to the components they can expand, increasing the applies pressure and potentially damaging the hose. Likewise, at low temperatures, applied force is reduced. As a result, in automotive applications, it is advised to use a spring type clamp.
There are some good starter kits available. Unfortunately, since it is primarily for industrial applications, it is not easy to get the rings in smaller quantities. So, having a full range of rings can get costly. I do not care for the adjustable rings and prefer the solid ring with a clamp on each side.
Although you can use a end nipping pliers, don’t do it unless you modify the ends flat. Just buy the correct pliers, they are not that expensive, especially when investing in the kit.
Can someone please explain how to remove oetiker clamps? I often find these clamps on the used beer equipment I buy, so I bought the oetiker pincer tool. But for the life of me I can’t figure out how to remove the clamps without destroying whatever they are clamping. The folks at granger couldn’t tell me, the folks at the plumbing supply store couldn’t tell me, and my local homebrew supply store couldn’t tell me. What’s the secret?
@Dave W
http://tinyurl.com/yg8hfe2
@ Dave W
Grip the crimped bump @ 90 degrees to the hose with a pair of long handle wire cutters. Normally a simple pinch, cut and twist will tear the metal enough and allow you to unwrap the clamp from the hose. The spot welded versions can almost be pried off with the end of a small screwdriver.
You’re brilliant! We had to replace the water hose on our RV–took me 5 seconds to get the clamp off.
Thanks mr. man!
@MDJ
http://tinyurl.com/dh589m
Shit MDJ I hadn’t seen that before thats freaking hilarious.
Here’s a lint to a tool that purports to do this job:
http://www.rostratool.com/itemdetails.asp?familyID=65&familyName=9255%2520PRT%2520Pincer%2520Clamp%2520Removal%2520Tool&Ref=families&itemInfo=349@9256+PRT&x=12&y=12
This look like the clips ued to secure CV shaft boots to the shaft. Does anyone know if this is whats on CV shafts?
@ fred
nice find Fred
@Kyle: From what I can tell it should be. These are also the stock clamps on the inner Tie-Rod boots for Volkswagen. VW seems to use these on other parts like emissions tubing. AFAIK for some applications they’re not all that necessary. For instance, on the vacuum/emissions hose a simple worm drive can replace it. Same thing I did with the Tie-Rod boots. Heck, Dan J. Reed: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/tierods/tierods.htm
actually just recommends using Zip-Ties!
Sure if you’ve got these tools and clamps it lends a cleaner more professional look, but for most weekend mechanics its probably a bit overkill (unless of course your application really requires them).
@Jim: The info you mentioned about Spring clamps seems spot on. That’s exactly why I learned you shouldn’t replace them with worm clamps on coolant hoses.
If these are cv boot clamps tools or working with thease may be able to be found at http://www.autobodytoolmart.com
Hi !
There are a lot of different clamps available within Norma Group. visit their website at normagroup.com and you will certainly find everything for your clampling problems. Good luck !
I just got the 1099 crimpers. It looks to me that the end part closes completely and is sharp for cutting. The side doesn’t completely close and appears to be blunt, I presume for clamping. Can anybody verify this?