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Given the state of 2x lumber you get nowadays, why wouldn’t you use steel in non-structural applications? Why screw around trying to use warped, twisted, and cupped studs when you can use uniform steel studs? The metal studs even have pre-cut holes to run most plumbing and electrical, unless you need to need to run something like 2″ water, vent, or waste pipes. In that case you’ll need a tool like Greenlee’s 713 stud punch. Think of it as the big-ass version of a paper hole puncher — only for steel studs.

The 23-1/2″ long tool gives you the leverage you need to punch 2-5/8″ holes in 24 to 20ga metal studs and the 2-1/8″ throat fits over most steel 2x framing. Even though Greenlee makes the C-frame and rubber gripped handle from a high-strength alloy aluminum, the tool still weighs a hefty 10.6lbs.

Pricing for the punch varies widely from $400 to $650, so this isn’t a tool you’re going to buy for that framing job in your basement.

713 Stud Punch [Greenlee]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Via Amazon) [What’s This?]

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6 Responses to Big-Ass Metal Stud Punch

  1. Toolhearty says:

    Eleven pounds doesn’t sound that bad, but I was just thinking…

    A tool like this with long handles that is almost always going to be used on a vertical piece (so there’s no support for the tool) should have some sort of simple spring mechanism that pulls the punch and die together. That way, one could hold on to the head to locate the hole and let the spring hold the tool in place while moving one’s hands to the end of the handles.


  2. fred says:

    Steel stud is definitely a large component of the commercial work that we do. Dedicated punches are also the best (most productive) way to make new holes for plumbing and conduits. Knockout punches can also work – but require the added step of boring a hole for the draw-stud – just too slow. We have tools from Greenlee , Kena, Malco and Pipe-Tytes (in alphabetical order) that we use for metal stud work. You may also want to look at some of the protective grommets produced by companies like Pipe-Tytes – which are useful for PVC installs.


  3. rob says:

    we do a great deal of steal stud work as well and for pulling bx wire a KO set would take for ever

    we use a greenlee stud punch we have about a dozen of them in a few differnt styles mainly the slightly smaller square hole ones they are lighter and work just fine for us or we just use a unibit in a drill a good sharp Step bit will make holes in thin studs pretty fast

  4. ChromeWontGetYouHome says:

    I have no comment on steel studs, but as for wood, I fully blame Home Despot and (b)Lowes for the awful state of most 2x4s.

    I have a local lumber company with two locations that stock a Stora Enso 2×4 from the Czech Republic that is outstandingly straight. I have a suspicion most of the big box stores’ lumber comes from another country whose name begins with C…

    And for the same price as getting them Walmarts of hardware and lumber. It’s just a waste of money to buy anything from those places that needs to be straight or flat.

  5. Paul says:

    These stud punches are freaking awesome. Forget burning through hole saws or spending forever with a slugbuster punch kit.

    These stud punches are even easier to use than they look in the pictures. You don’t have to be a he-man to punch 10 holes in 2 minutes. Very handy tool, yet pretty pricey and they do wear out over time.

  6. Some Guy says:

    If you are pulling mc through the factory made holes in metal studs try to pull from the back side of the holes, it goes smoother. The stud punches are nice for commercial work since the premade holes in the studs aren’t always lined up and nobody likes those zigzag runs of mc and some jobs are conduit only.

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