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The Hole Pro® twin-blade X models can cut a variety of materials including wood, plywood, sheetrock, plaster, MDF, fiberglass, and up to 20-gauge brass and aluminum sheeting. The minimum diameter for all the X models is 1-7/8″, and the maximum diameter, for the Model X-425, is 17″. All twin-blade kits come in a heavy-duty carrying case and include a clear Tri-Slot Shield, as shown above, to catch shavings (the shield can also be used as a portable drill press), a pilot hole bit, two hex wrenches, and one set each of tungsten carbide blades and high-speed steel blades. The twin blades provide easy balance, are “infinitely” adjustable over the range of diameters, and will cut through 1″ material (if cutting from one side only; 2″ material when cut from both sides).

The Hole Pro® X-305, with a maximum capacity of 12″, costs $149.95. The X-148, with a maximum capacity of 5-7/8″, costs $119.95.

Have any Toolmongers used one of these hand-held-drill hole cutters? What’s your opinion?

High Performance Hole Cutters [Manufacturer’s Site]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

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20 Responses to Hot Or Not? Hole Pro Twin-Blade Hole Cutters

  1. bdstevens says:

    Not. I tried a similar product from a big-box store, and within the first hole (for can lights), went back to a drywall saw (in my Leatherman, no less) because it worked better and more efficiently. I’m not sure if this one is of better quality than the one I tried…

  2. Adam R. says:

    Not. I saw this or something similar on one of the home improvement shows. The guy using it was talking about how great it was. Showed it in action and then finished the cut with the razor knife. He couldn’t get it to finish the job it was meant for.

  3. Old Coot says:

    Dude @ left doing this with that bad-a** Milwaukee had better be well braced when the blade goes through and grabs a rafter or some Romex.

  4. Evan says:

    These are for the most part – Horrible. I’ve used a couple of competing ones and if you actually want an accurate hole that the light fixture fits in, you’re best off cutting it with a drywall saw. It will take you 30 seconds longer, and a slight bit of cleanup, but the hole will be the correct size!

  5. Jerry says:

    NOT! I have a similar device from a big box and it is a total POS. I tried it with a variety of drills and always got the same very poor results. There is really no way to hold it perfectly level (even with that plastic do-dad) and it will grab whatever you are trying to drill through. It’s just too large a circumference to control with a hand-held drill. Of course, if you are into scary thrills, this might be right for you since it will definitely grab hold and spin you around – or pull all your arm muscles out. Grab your drywall saw and be done with it. For harder materials, grab your recip.

  6. J.R. says:

    Maybe not. I used a much cheaper carbide tipped circle cutter from the tile cutting aisle at the local box store. Works great for cutting all of my recessed light holes (only cuts up to about 6 inches), though it was VERY messy. I like the idea of the dust cover, but not at the prices they want for those.

  7. shopmonger says:

    As an idea these type of cutters are ok for certain use, but i would agree that going through and hitting stud with one will either throw you around, or it will bend the blades. I have used other mobile balde cutters fro jobs on the bench and they are ok for softer materials


  8. browndog77 says:

    Freehand w/ a rotozip is pretty quick & easy. Not much more dust than a dw saw, & faster. Just make sure of the depth of cut! Probably could make a jig for the diameter of the hole out of plywood, hmm…..(scratching my chin)

  9. jeffrey immer says:

    i have a cirlce jig for my rotozip and love it nice and easy

  10. mr. man says:

    I’ve always used my round hole saw inside a shallow cardboard box taped to the ceiling. Because this contraption was also connected to a shop vac, clean up was minimal.

  11. fred says:

    We soemtimes have to resort to cutting in place for remodel work. If we are cutting into ceramic tile or otherwise abrasive ceilings – then its often with a grit-edged holesaw (Greenlee or RemGrit0 usually chucked in a D-Handle corded drill while holding it steady with one hand on the trigger and the other on the side handle

  12. Brandon says:

    Hot, the ones from HD are a POS but I have the Hole Pro (linked above) and it works great. Minimal cleanup, perfect hole, and done quickly. May not be worth it if your doing 4-8 cans, but if you are doing 30+ you can’t go wrong with the Hole Pro.

  13. Phil says:

    I had my doubts about that thing when I saw it at the local big box. I use a hole saw chucked through a clear round plastic container to catch the dust when cutting overhead.

  14. Scott says:

    Warm – I bought one of these for fitting recessed lighting into a circa 1940 plaster ceiling – lots of gypsum plaster on backing board with holes in it. The drywall saw approach pulled down too much plaster and left a bad edge – but when properly set and used (there’s a definite knack to it..) it worked really well.

    Check the backside clearance for sure – if you hit any lath or stud you are going to be in trouble….

  15. Jason says:

    Looks like the cover is the only difference from the regular ones. As an electrician I use those quite often for recessed lights or other access holes.

    As said above use a plastic container, or like I do, since I’m cheap and do it on the go. Just grab a piece of cardboard and bend up the sides, use the holesaw through the cardboard, catch it and you’re good to go. Just toss it after a few uses before it gets mangled too much.

  16. TowerGuy says:

    Cant beat it for in ceiling speakers. Precise, fast, and clean. Only down fall is that these seem to grow legs and walk away. Don’t waste time with the cheaper versions this model is king.

  17. Travis says:

    I used a knock-off version, not the Hole-Pro, and it was a total POS. I’d rather cut by hand with a drywall saw than mess with that thing again.

  18. John Martens says:

    As TowerGuy says, The Hole-Pro is awesome, but the Home Depot specials are crap. Unfortunately, I’m using my HD version right now as it’s only 20usd and I’m not going to spend another 100 just to have someone who needs it more liberate it. For anyone with the HD model, the key is about 1800 RPM and slowly move it into the drywall.

  19. Brad says:

    The Hole Pro has both high speed steel blades for clean holes in wood or acoustic ceiling tiles, a shield that is very light but strong enough that you can stand on it and this allows the hole cutter to catch 100% of the dust and whatever rodent crap is up in the ceiling. I can adjust the depth of the cut of the hole cutter using the orange knob. I set it at 3/4″ and don’t worry about cutting anything more than the drywall – no hidden wires, PEX, copper pipes, etc. to accidentally cut. I have cut perfect 17″ access holes and made a perfect patch when the job was done (cutting the hole and the perfect patch took a total of about 3 minutes). For plaster I set the hole cutter to cut just the plaster and as it cuts by rotating around the blade there is no up and down motion and no cracking of the plaster. I can attach a vacuum to the shield for use on walls or to meet the new EPA RRP lead paint regs and avoid a possible $37,500 fine. The best part though is that the X-230 will adjust from 2″ to 9″ so it works for whatever size hole I need and it is the exact size I need so if it is a 8″ CFL can light that takes a 8-5/8 inch cutout hole there is no problem. If I need to cut a 7-1/4″ hole for a moisture proof bath light can – no problem. I use it to patch holes and when making openings for repairs. Before I start the repair I take a piece of scrap drywall material or pick up a 2×2 square from the lumber yard and cut patches ahead of time. Then I make the holes I need for the repair or to blow in insulation or to pull wire and before I leave it takes just a few seconds to put my perfect patches into place. For tubular skylights we used to have one guy holding the cardboard box while the other person was in the attic cutting the hole and still there was a mess. Now we use the Hole Pro hole cutter and one guy can do the job and it is a lot faster and nothing needs to be moved out of the way, no drop cloths needed, no shop vac needed. I have a Rotozip tool that I use for switch boxes but only then and with a one hand on the tool and another holding the hose from the shop vac and this is not going to fly with the new EPA regs anymore anyway. If I buy a single 4″ hole saw it is going to cost me over $40 and work poorly on plaster and Hardie board and MDF and plywood, but with the Hole Pro I can cut a hundred holes and then buy another $12 pair of HSS blades for wood or $18 for a tungsten carbide set and cut another 100 holes in sheetrock or other hard material and I can cut holes 4 times as large as I could hope to cut with a hole saw and even my 11 AMP stud drill. I watched someone make 10″ holes in TJI joists for a project with over 2000 holes needed and he was using a tiny 4 amp 3/8 Makita corded drill.

  20. Voltwiz says:

    The hole pro dust shield used with the hole saw adapter and carbide hole saw work wonders on plaster and wood lath ceilings. Expensive but worth every penny. The carbide hole saw will eventually cut through the wood lath but switching to a standard hole saw or roto zip is faster. No vibration to break up the surface plaster or plaster ‘keys’ and clean hole that requires no patching. If you do this for a living and work in plaster a lot it is absolutely worth the cost. Ours is 5 years old and still working well.

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