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Striping fiber optic cable isn’t a job for a pair of wire strippers. You need special strippers that allow you to precisely remove the correct cable layers for the job. Paladin tools manufactures one such stripper — the FiverOptic 5-in-1 stripper.

In order to understand what this tool does, a description of the structure of a fiber optic cable might be helpful — I’m not an expert, so if I get something wrong here please let me know. Generally, a cable with a single fiber consists of the core made from silica, quartz, or plastic covered with a cladding that is also part of the optical path made from acrylate or another material. A buffer surrounds the cladding and separates the fibers in cables with multiple fibers. Finally, an outer jacket wraps around the cable to protect it.

Paladin designed FiverOptic to remove the outer jacket from 2.0-3.0mm cables, the buffer from the cable without removing the acrylate (cladding), or the buffer and the cladding from 800/125um and 250/125um fiber. They embedded the handles in rubber for comfort and made them lock to protect the CNC-formed and factory calibrated cutting edges from damage.

A pair of these strippers will run you at least $40.

FiverOptic Stripper [Paladin Tools]
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5 Responses to Fiber Optic Stripper

  1. Chris W says:

    The light generally travels in the core only. The cladding has a lower refractive index than the core causing total internal reflection. These seem to be for plastic fiber. Plastic is more expensive per foot, and has much more loss per foot, but is cheaper to install. The single-mode fiber I use at work can go over 20 KM, but the 125/9uM requires an expensive fusion splicer and precision connectors.

  2. rob says:

    only one stripper is usually needed, I preffer the Miller strippers. Plastic fiber is another story on size but all you need to do is strip to the 125uM for both single and multi mode fibers. All the Jacketing and kevlar can be removed with snips (Klien Electricians scissors). Snips are the greatest tool a C-Card has. They open locks, cut prennies in half and open clamshell packaging.

    Also you can do single mode without a splicer, Just be very good at polishing and never use crimp on connectors. Always use anerobic and a scope.

  3. Matt says:

    I’ve always just used automotive butt splices at work for fiber, never had a problem yet, but make sure you put the fiber in straight or you’ll get a major loss. Those fusion splicers are just a money grab, you don’t need them.

  4. Chris W says:

    We have to use a fusion splicer to splice long cables together. We are running gigabit signals over 20 KM. Connector losses are too great for such long distances.

  5. Nate says:

    Butt splices, are you nuts? Solder those things, Matt! Crimp splices don’t make a gas-tight joint, and eventually the fiber will corrode.

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