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The name gets a laugh more often than not, but what this syringe-looking rig really does is suck solder away from an area you didn’t mean to put it on. MRO2Go has the Edsyn Soldapullt for about $11, which isn’t too bad when you try to think of a better way to get solder off something. At least in theory.

I assume you actuate the spring-loaded plunger when the solder has been melted by your soldering iron, and then is sucked up into the barrel of the tool. Unfortunately I can’t find instructions on the terrible Edsyn site, so I have to ask if anyone out there knows how to use it. Why? I picked one up for $1.00 at a garage sale this weekend.

Edsyn Soldapullt [mro2go.com]


17 Responses to Dealmonger: Edsyn Soldapullt

  1. MG says:

    I’ve been using one for years. They are great for de-soldering connections when tearing down electronics for the bits-n-pieces. Push down on the plunger and it locks into place, then position the tip near the melted solder and hit the button. The vacuum created is pretty intense. In a few seconds the solder you sucked up has hardened and is pushed out by an ejector pin when you reset the plunger.

  2. Gordon DeWitte says:

    Depress the plunger, heat up the solder joint, and hit the trigger when the solder is molten. Try to keep the nose of the unit from prolonged contact with the soldering iron’s tip, or it will deform/melt. These things work reasonably well as long as they’re not too plugged up with old solder, and the internal o-ring is intact and occasionally lubed with something like silicon grease.

  3. Julian Tracy says:

    Have one as well – works great when needed. Better than using the other method – the basket weave wire mesh used to soak up extra solder.


  4. Jason says:

    Can do double duty as a blackhead remover.

  5. B. Foo says:

    Radio shack has a soldering iron with a rubber bulb on it. It is essentially one of these solder suckers with the iron built on. Works WAY better than these things and only costs a few bucks.

  6. Chris W says:

    The generic name is “solder sucker”. My first one had no shield on the top. I got a couple of nasty bruises from the flying plunger before throwing it away. They’re used mainly for through-hole printed circuit board repair. There are also hollow tipped soldering irons which connect to a vacuum pump to suck out the solder.

  7. Eli says:

    The store I work at sells the O-rings, lube, and replacement tips. The parts to rebuild these solder suckers are inexpensive, IIRC.

    They also make an ESD safe version.

  8. Mike47 says:

    I bought one at Fry’s for about 10 bucks. Used it recently to salvage some LED’s from a faulty dishwasher controller board.

  9. BJN says:

    Works well. The trigger action lets you suck molten solder from a circuit board connection. The tip eventually gets misshapen from contact with the soldering iron tip. Most of the solder you remove is ejected when you reset the plunger.

    Works better for many connections than solder wick. A useful tool for someone who does occasional electronics repair.

  10. salsa says:

    Have one and use it all the time for scrounging components– excellent tool! I rarely use solder wick– this does the trick nicely. Interesting that the plastic tip has not melted much after >2 years of use.

  11. Jason says:

    i always have one of these in my tool bag, they work well for being on the road.

  12. Dan Lyke says:

    As MG alludes, make sure that the solder sucker is not over your work piece when you reset it, sometimes that solder comes out as lots of fine flakes…

  13. Chris says:

    Ratty Shark sells one of these for about the same price. I’ve used it for years with no issues and it’s very handy. I agree with the others who think it’s superior to solder wick for most things (although solder wick does better if you can’t get the tip right in on the workpiece).


  14. o4tuna says:

    Some have an aluminum body. They hold up to continuous use a lot better. Ummmm, you’re not supposed to *touch* the tip with your soldering iron. Seriously though, some brands do have a MUCH more heat resistant tip. I think some of them are a type of ceramic. Sometimes it’s possible to swap tips from one brand to another. So I have one with a metal body & a really nice tip that came from one with a plastic body…

  15. I’ve soldered and desoldered extensively and found the only tool that works work a damn consistently is a proper desoldering gun that has a continuous pump, but that’s probably out of the price range of most hobbyists.

    I have to agree with B. Foo, the desoldering iron Radio Shack (or is it The Shack now?) sells does a much better job that these solder suckers, and it’s cheaper too. It takes a while to heat up and you need to make sure the airway stays clear. If your just doing a few leads it probably isn’t worth heating it up though. Actually I remember an article where somebody took an iron like the Radio Shack one and hooked it up to an aquarium pump.

    Here it is:

    Like all tools these Soldapullt solder suckers have their place, it you’re just removing a two lead component, they are OK, put if your removing half a dozen components or even one 14 pin through hole IC, you’re going to get frustrated pretty fast by holes that it just won’t clear.

    One tip when that happens is to actually add solder to the connection with a soldering iron and then try sucking it out again.

    @BJN and salsa:

    Solder wick has it’s place, it’s much more useful for removing surface mount components than through hole components. True to it’s name it wicks solder away from the pads and even from underneath the pads to free the leads. It doesn’t do a very good job of pulling solder out of a hole though.


    For surface mount components, a heat gun work pretty well too. You have to be careful to to disturb the surrounding parts or over heat the parts.

  16. Peony says:

    When I started experimenting with electronics in my teens, pretty much all the components I got were from old devices people chucked out. I went through a few solder suckers since then. My current one is a cheap no brand aluminium one with the top shield removed. The reason I took it off was so I could reset the sucker by turning it upside down and pressing the plunger on the table. I do it this way is because i have smaller hands than most people and they get sore quickly if your trying to strip a lot of old stuff in one sitting. It has never failed me, though I tend to work with larger components, no surface mount stuff.

  17. MeasureOnceCutTwice says:

    I’m surprised that nobody has mentioned our #1 use for these: launching projectiles across the lab at co-workers. Simply place a small small scrap of junk in front of the plunger, aim & fire. (preferred projectiles were 1/4-20 nuts, 5 Watt resistors with one lead trimmed off, wads of solder, etc.)

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