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Browsing the FAMAG Catalog I came across this unusually deep set of hole saws. These hole saws were designed for drilling holes up to 300 mm (almost 12″) deep! If you have a problem ejecting the plug from a regular “short” hole saw, how are you ever going to get a 10″ plug out of one these extended hole saws?

FAMAG manufactures these bi-metal hole saws with a variable tooth pitch. To form the cutting head they weld high-speed steel teeth onto the cylindrical carrier. They sell the hole saws in 86 mm, 111 mm, 130 mm, 152 mm, 170 mm, 200 mm diameters which range from approximately  3-3/8″ to 7-7/8″.

You’ll drop anywhere from 175 to 425 Euros ($250 to $600) depending on which size you order. That’s not including the center spike which FAMAG sells separately for an extra 60 Euros ($85).

Deep Hole Saws [FAMAG]
Deep Hole Saws(PDF) [FAMAG Catalog (page 25)]

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17 Responses to Extra Deep Hole Saw

  1. Shopmonger says:

    I need some of these, but no way ma i paying that price….I need them for wood turning, and i can come up with another way to do it for that price…


  2. JP says:

    “f you have a problem ejecting the plug from a regular “short” hole saw, how are you ever going to get a 10″ plug out of one these extended hole saws?”

    Seriously, how do you do this? Better still how do you guys do it with regular plugs?

  3. Sparks3 says:

    That just ain’t right, that’s a core drill bit on a regular drill.

  4. shopmonger says:

    you use two screws driven into the wood and pull back and forth on those two screws……also you remove the center drill first


  5. shopmonger says:

    Also if you rock the bit a tiny bit as you drill, and take your time, it will come out smooth


  6. shopmonger says:


  7. David Bryan says:

    If you’ll look at the catalog, you’ll see that it says these aren’t for cutting solid wood thicker than 30 mm. They’re for cutting through multiple layers of different materials like wood and insulation.

  8. @David Bryan:

    Your right. From the Catalog:

    “The chipping of solid wood thicker than 30mm and all sorts of stone and metal is not possible.”

    It reads like a bad translation from German to English though.


    I have to admit when I first saw these I did think at first these were used for drilling holes in timbers, but then I figured they were used to drill holes through the side of the house for stuff like vents where you might have to go through siding, sheathing, insulation, several joists, etc….

    Even if it wasn’t a solid plug it still is an interestin question how you’d get 10″ of varied materials out of these hole saws.

  9. Brau says:

    Whatever happened to long shank adjustable bore auger bits? Why on earth would I want to dig a mile of wood out of a tube?

  10. fred says:


    While we are big proponents of selfeed bits – we have had times where this tool might have helped drilling through:

    Plaster wall, wood lath, empty wall cavity, old board sheathing, old siding, new sheathing, foam board, new siding.

  11. David Bryan says:

    Brau, I believe one point of these is that you don’t have to worry about keeping your holes lined up as you go through spaces and softer materials between the layers you’re penetrating, and you’re probably going to have either a good bit of space involved or some materials that’ll be pretty easy to get out of the hole saw. There’s really no point in using something like this on solid wood. And if I’m using a hole saw to cut through multiple layers I don’t wait ’til it’s full to get the slug out, just because I can.

  12. KoKo says:

    Not only would it be impossible to get the plug out, these saw have no chip clearance, so that the sawdust has some place to go. And even if there were big gulleys between the teeth, they would eventually fill up.

    You would have to feed it in a fraction of an inch, back it out and blow out the sawdust, then work it back in, and repeat, ad infinitum. Otherwise the thing will get hot enough to ignite the wood. No kidding.

    I had a friend who used these things to cut round tenon ends on stick furniture. He would drill into the end grain of branches, then cut away the outside to leave a round tenon. He scorched a lot of wood, and it took friggin’ forever. Then he got a Veritas thing that shaved away the outside like a pencil sharpenter. That worked great.

  13. Brad says:

    What works the best are deep gullet hole cutters but when you get to this depth the barrel wall thickness needs to increase to keep the hole cutter’s side walls from collapsing in. If you look at high performance big gullet hole cutters like the ones from Hole Pro – their Blue Boar TCT hole cutters you will notice that they have teeth brazed onto the barrel and that these teeth extend both inside and outside the edge of the barrel of the hole cutter. The result of this tooth design is that the wood plug does not touch the inside of the barrel and so it comes out very easily = often just falling out. It needs a wood type of flat bit for a pilot bit when cutting wood as the regular twist bits make too smooth a hole and there is a lot of friction between the pilot bit and the hole it has made in the cut out piece of wood.

  14. Henri says:

    In my business I need to do core tests on foam insulation. With the increase in R-value, this is as much as 8″ to 10″. I hope to leave out the pilot bit as it is not necessary to start a circle cut at a precise center location. Once the cut is established, the foam will guide the cutter. Also, I don’t want to drill through the sheathing (roof) when I get to the bottom of the core. I need the core piece in tact. All ideas welcome.
    P.S. When I am making a cut in thick wood with a standard hole saw, I do this. Drill in about 3/4″ to 1″. Back out the hole saw. Split out the plug with a chisel or old screwdriver. Drill the next layer. Split out the next layer of wood. The wood plug is never left in the hole saw, except the last layer which will be thin and easy to remove if you stop drilling just before bottoming out.

  15. Grapefarmer says:

    The easiest way I’ve found to cut deep holes in wood (through beams, timbers, ect.)or radiusing the ends of round posts is to find older 6″-12″wide band saws and have them rolled into a cylinder and weld the seam. Then cut the top or head off of a standard hole saw of the same diameter and weld it to the top.

    Using the rolled band saw blade allows you the option of having the saw sharpened AND the tooth swedge is much deeper than a bimetal blade which makes the drilling time considerably less since you don’t have to keep retracting the saw to clear the teeth as often.

    Most saw shops that sharpen for the mill trade or other large industrial band saw operators will have both the used band saws and the ability to roll them into the diameter you desire.

    Cost-wise I figure $30-$40 for the hole saw (larger diameter 4″-12″)that you are going to remove the top from to weld to the band saw cylinder. The most I have been charged for the band saw cylinder is $40 and I usually have them make three for me of the same dia. and they charge $100 for the three.

    One thing to check is the gauge of the band saw. Most of the retail hole saws are 14 gauge that you will be removing the top from so be sure that the band saw is the same gauge or maybe one gauge smaller. Don’t go thicker because your plug may hang up on the thinner-to thicker welded transition point. Also waxing or using a combination of WD 40 and graphite on the inside of the cylinder will ease the plug removal process.

    Good Luck!


  16. Hi guys,

    Does anyone know where you can still buy these fameg extra deep hole saws?

    I desperately need one at 3.5″ to 4 ” diameter and 12″ long…

    Look forward to hearing from someone.

    Kind regards Marco

  17. chuck winslow says:

    If I have a plug in a hole saw I use a scape 2×4 and start
    the saw into it then put 2 screws on each side of the guide
    drill and on into the plug in the saw,hold the 2×4 and spin
    the saw pull it back till the plug is clear.

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