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Amazon is offering a great deal on this Hitachi 10″ Compound Miter Saw — it’s $115 with Super Saver Free shipping.  You can adjust the bevel angel from 0 to 45 degrees and the miter angle from 0 to 52 degrees.   With a 15A motor and a 10″ blade, it’s just a handy tool if you don’t already have one.

Hitachi Compound Miter Saw Via Amazon [What’s This?]
Street Pricing [Google]

 

14 Responses to Dealmonger: Hitachi 10″ Compound Miter Saw $115

  1. Dave says:

    Lowes also has this saw on sale for $99

  2. JP says:

    Can I use this as a tile saw also? (provided that there exists such a blade for this saw) I dunno just asking, I’ve got a small garage, but multiple projects coming up that require the use of similar saws in this family.

  3. ajds says:

    12″ sliding compound version is $400 at Costco right now

  4. SuperJdynamite says:

    JP: Miter saws are typically used to cross-cut rod-type stock whereas a tile is more like a sheet stock.

    Besides, I’m of the opinion that ceramic materials should be cut with a wet saw so you don’t die of an industrial revolution era lung disease.

  5. Pepster says:

    Opinion time boys:

    I was just advised by an old woodworker that I should look to buy a table saw instead of a chop saw, due to the versatility. It was heavily implied that if I was to only to own one of the two, a table saw would be much more versatile.

    What do you folks think?

  6. Gary says:

    I got along for a long time with a tablesaw but now miter saw.

  7. CJD says:

    @ Pepster

    A table saw is more versitile but a miter saw is more convenient for alot of quick cross cuts.
    I have a Bosch 4100 and a Makita LS1013FL both on Bosch gravity rise stands and i get a good amount of work out of both.
    How would you cut a length of crown molding on a table saw?

  8. Keith says:

    Pepster: I went 20 years with just a table saw and built a couple of set of kitchen cabinets as well as most of the furniture in my house. A couple of months ago I bought the exact miter saw and love it. I used it to put a new floors in my kitchen. But while it is a great tool for what I use it for it will never be a replacement for my table saw.

  9. @Pepster:

    The old woodworker does have a good point, a table saw is a much more versatile machine and if you have to choose between a table saw and a miter saw, go for the table saw.

    But…with chop saws becoming so cheap, it’s almost become an impulse buy. You can hardly go wrong with $100 saw like this one. It’s hard to say the same thing about a table saw. You really want to buy the best table saw you can afford.

    My dad told me once that miter saws were so cheap that instead of changing blades miter he just bought a new saw every job. And he was doing finish carpentry, not framing.

  10. ignore that “miter” in the last paragraph, it should read:

    My dad told me once that miter saws were so cheap that instead of changing blades he just bought a new saw every job. And he was doing finish carpentry, not framing.

  11. Dwight says:

    I picked up this saw last year for around the same price at Lowes. As an amateur woodworker, I would definitely prefer a table saw. However, as an amateur woodworker, I could in no way justify the price or the space in my garage! The Hitachi is a good saw, no laser guidance or other fancy nonsense but consistent enough for my uncomplicated projects. If you are making fine furniture, you probably already have a table saw. But if you are the average Toolmongerite, you will want to own a compound miter saw, even if you don’t use it regularly.

  12. bob says:

    You cut crown on a table saw by using a cutting board. This also allows wood to be cut without dragging it on the dirty old saw table.

  13. fred says:

    Regarding – Table Saw versus Chop Saw:

    While it would be nice to have both – or even add a band saw for your home shop – if you are going to buy only one for now – you should think through what you plan to do.

    If you plan home remodeling – mostly doors, windows, crown moldings etc. – then you should consider a chop (miter) saw. If your budget can stand it – a top of the line Makita or Bosch (we use both commercially – but give the edge to our newer Makitas) sliding compound miter saw will serve you very well. The only things you will not be able to do well with this is to rip down stock (e.g. to trim casing to size.)

    If you are considering making furniture, casework or cabinetry then you will need the table saw’s ability to consistently cut repeatable-sized panels and rip stock. Your choice here is more difficult – since paying more really does provide a lot more. The range on stationary circular saws – run from easily transportable saws made for jobsites (e.g. Bosch, Makita and Dewalt – often using universal motors) to what are sometimes called contractor saws (induction motor hung out the back of a stand) to Hybrids and finally up to Cabinet Saws (General, Delta-Unisaw, Powermatic, Grizzly to name a few brands). If you are serious about your woodworking you may find that the stability of the cabinet saw will pay for its higher price. Be advised, however, that the price line is a bit blurred with high-end jobsite saws costing up near what you might pay for a low-end cabinet saw.

    In our commercial shop we have several cabinet saws (2 older Delta Unisaw Right Tilt Models – one with a sliding table.) We do enough panel work to justify having a big Shop Fox sliding table saw and a stand-alone Panel Saw. We do enough ripping to justify having an old Oliver Straight Line Rip Saw. We also have 2 Laguna band saws and an old monster Dewalt Radial Arm saw. But all of this is rather impractical for a home shop.

    When I started woodworking at home – over 30 years ago – Radial Arm Saws were all the rage – so I bought one as “the all purpose tool”. At that time Sears sold a plethora of models – as did Delta and Dewalt. They could do a lot – but after a kickback incident, I decided that I might never master using it to rip – so I gave it up for that use. I also found that with time it seemed to get out of alignment easily – so I finally bit the bullet and sprang for a home Unisaw. Back then, the top of the line 3HP 220V model sold for about $1100. There are still some folks out there who will swear that I could have stayed with the radial arm saw – but I never looked back. There was – and still is – a debate about right-tilt and left tilt saws. When I bought – the Unisaw only came with right-tilt – with its competitor Powermatic only coming with left-tilt. Today you have more choice – and if you are just starting out (habits not yet formed) you might find the left-tilt saw more natural. You probable could do an Internet search and see all the arguments favoring one or the other.

    Some years ago, I also sprang for a compound sliding miter saw for trim and casing work – finally relegating the old radial arm saw to the far corner of the shop.

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