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My current truck is a ’93 and I live in the Rust Belt, so the body’s getting rough. Hopefully I’ll be able to spend some time cleaning things up and installing patch panels to get things looking a bit better, but other emergencies keep popping their heads up, so for now I’m keeping up on my tetanus shots and hoping for the best. This new aerosol version of Eastwood’s Rust Converter looks like it might work to my benefit.

Eastwood’s Rust Converter functions as a sealant — with just a few minutes of running around with a spray can, it’ll change the rust on your vehicle into a protective coating. Being an aerosol, it sprays out thin, unlike the version in the regular cans, and I think the lower viscosity should allow it to penetrate better.

A can should cover about ten to twelve square feet;  Eastwood recommends a light coat and then a heavier coat after the first coat dries. Then just spray on some paint.

The aerosol can of Rust Converter sells for about $20.

Rust Converter [Eastwood]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

 

10 Responses to Eastwood Rust Converter

  1. Rick says:

    Has anyone tried this on cast iron surfaces? Like table saws? Any pros and cons to using that against the rust currently coating my table saw?

  2. fritz gorbach says:

    I have used the Loctite Rust converter on my Jeep, and also on damaged/rusted metal condensate drain pans on large commmercial air handlers and have had good luck. I imagine eastwood’s works as well, but Loctite is available at lowes and Home Depot.

    As for your table saw, rick, Look for the Boeshield T9 two part system reviewed here previously. Part one is a mild acidic cleaner, which i use with a 3m pad and plenty of clean rags, to get rid of surface rust and dirt, and part two is a waxy coating which dries between several hours and several days, dependin on thickness and humidity.
    I have had great luck with this product on machine tools, and steel tables used for layout and welding. In myarea it is available at sears hardwareas a two part kit. However, if you need a lot of cleanup first, you won’t have enough cleaner. In that case, I have purchased online from jamesown distributors just the part i need.

  3. Chris W says:

    Plain old phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in most rust converters. I keep a spray bottle of it around. I think it is sold as concrete etch. The advantage of commercial rust converters is that they have higher viscosity to keep them from running. You can try diet colas too, but they aren’t very concentrated.

  4. Mike S says:

    Chris W is right – most rust converters are simply thickened phosphoric acid solutions. Cheap Naval Jelly will do the trick just fine. My table saw got covered in rust while moving (packed into the moving van during rain, then sat in the van for four days in the hot Texas sun). I lightly sanded the cast iron, removed the residual dust, slathered on the Naval Jelly, and hoped for the best. The end result looked like hell (mottled white and gray), but it did the job. A coating of wax and it returned to service. Ten years later, I have had no return of the rust.

    I probably could have been more careful in my application of the Naval Jelly and obtained a better appearance, but it’s a cheap saw and not worth the effort.

  5. beetlekill says:

    The best way I have found, to kill rust completly on your car ….is to sandblast the rust , replace any missing metal, treat the bare metal with an acid based cleaner AND conditioner. Then coat with a high quality epoxy based sealer…..
    … a bit more involved to do it correctly but that is the basics.

  6. Mike lee says:

    I restore antique hand tools as a hobby. I use evapo-rust to get rid of rust. Just drop the tools in the solution and it removes the rust without any work. The only drawback is it’s price. At 21 dollars a gallon plus shipping it’s expensive. However, it can be used several times before you have to replace the solution. I found this product on toolmonger.

  7. Lloyd says:

    Mike Lee is right on the money. I’ve never seen anything clean rust like Evap-o-rust. That stuff is truly amazing. With no harsh ingredients. You do not need to mask off anything. It doesn’t harm rubber plastic, etc.

    Eastwood Rust convertor does just that, it converts the rust to an inert product.

    Acid , naval jelly, etc, are rust removers. Completely different and extremely harmful. Oh yeah, they work but this product does not remove it, just converts it.

  8. textrucker says:

    Does anyone know the best way to restore an cast iron dutch oven. Its covered in rust.

  9. Ed the Handyman says:

    Evaporust is nothing more than phosphoric acid, the same as the rest. Don’t kid yourself, Ace.

  10. Mike d says:

    I have tried the Eastwood stuff and realized it is just phosphoric acid. I actually prefer to use Naval Jelly . Naval jelly sticks better to surfaces which allows it to work better. My father has used Naval jelly for years. It works great. Follow the directions. I clean the item of flaking rust first then apply the naval jelly. Let it sit 5-15 minutes but don’t let it dry. Then I use a scotch brite pad and work it in, this helps to remove the rust and the Naval jelly acts like a lubricant so the scotch brite pad dosen’t damage the item you are de-rusting. If the item is really rusty I then add more Naval jelly and let it sit. Clean it off with warm water and either apply paint to the item or an oil or spray grease to prevent future rusting.

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