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Coax-Seal protects cable connections from being degraded by their worst enemy: Moisture! The moldable, sealable tape is aimed at pros in the wireless, satellite, and radio fields, but it might also come in handy at home — for example, if the external connection for your cable or satellite dish is exposed to rain.

You can form Coax-Seal to seal awkward, oddly-shaped connections, and it stays flexible in hot and cold conditions — it’s been tested at temperatures as low as -200 degrees Fahrenheit and up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit for one hour.

Available in 1/2” or 1”-wide strips, Coax-Seal starts at $4 for the 60-inch-long roll.

Coax-Seal [Universal Electronics]
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Via Amazon [What’s This?]

 

2 Responses to Coax-Seal

  1. Chuk Gleason says:

    Coax-Seal is great stuff. Absolutely. Just a couple tips on application to co-axial/RF connectors:
    1) Start at the top, or uppermost end of the connection. Put a layer of electrical tape on your connector first, starting on the jacket before the connector body, smoothly overlapping about 1/2 the width of the tape, spiralling along until you’re past the other end. Smooth, no wrinkles allowed. If you wrinkle, re-cover them smoothly.
    2) Next, put on your Coax-Seal, the same way, starting on the jacket before where you started your tape, overlapping smoothly about half the width of the ‘goo’ and continue past the other end of the tape. Smoosch firmly with your hands.
    3) Start another layer of electrical tape; again before your layer of ‘goo’, overlapping about 1/2 the tape-width, all along the length, until you’re past the other end of the goo, and stretching the tape a little bit as you go. Return back from whence you came, still overlapping, & stretching slightly. Everything should be smooth, with no wrinkles. Your last couple turns of tape should have almost no tension on them, just cut cleanly.

    When you’re all done, you should be able to imagine a the layers of overlap like shingles on a roof – each wrap should cover the top edge of the one below it, so that any water running down the length of cable should shed off the surface rather than finding its way under the edge. This is also why it’s important to not have any wrinkles in your taping – you don’t want to provide any entry point for water droplets.

    If you ever have to open this connection, you will thank yourself for the extra time. Simply slice down the length of the wrap with a sharp knife, to the cable’s jacket & connector body, and peel the whole mess away. The first layer of electrical tape keeps the Coax-Seal from adhering to the connector body, and thus easy to get off. Some people even put that first layer of tape on and, after a couple wraps, twist the tape 180 degrees, sticky-side out, to make removal even easier.

    Use a good grade of electrical tape, too; not the stuff from the dollar bin at the local discount store, but a name-brand tape. You’re paying yourself to do a good job. now, and not to have to come back in six months & redo it cuz you took the cheap and easy way out the first time.

  2. cconnector01 says:

    Coax Seal is black, tacky, non-conductive, non-contaminating, 100% waterproof, and has low vapor transmission rate. It has self-healing qualities.

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