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All it takes is one hit of the hammer on your hands, and you’ll wish you’d had the Craftsman Punch and Chisel Holder.  It’ll safely hold your chisel or punch so you can concentrate on one less thing and get the job done. Make jokes all you want but this thing isn’t for sissies — it’s for smart folks who like their digits just the way they are.

Just place the chisel in the holder’s opening and crank down on the handle to hold it in place. The holder provides a good grip on that punch or chisel and also helps you keep on target. It’ll hold all but the largest punches and chisels.

The holder doesn’t come with any of Craftsman’s chisel or punch sets, so you’ll need to purchase it separately — street pricing starts at $13.

Craftsman Punch and Chisel Holder [Sears]
Street Pricing [Google]

 

9 Responses to Craftsman’s Punch/Chisel Holder Saves Your Hands

  1. Bart'sDad says:

    Or just use a pair of Vise-grips.

  2. fred says:

    Made by Western Forge for Sears.

    DASCO use to make one that used a strap that tightened around the chisel – absorbed the shock of the strike a bit better

  3. laz says:

    they’re selling these to try to lower the number of “craftsman hammer used as chisel” returns 😉

  4. Interesting idea, but if you are using chisels more than occasionally you should probably use the right type of hammer.

    I’m guessing that one of the reasons that carpenter and chisel mallets are the shape they are is to keep you from hitting your hands.

    Here’s an example of a carpenter’s mallet:

    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11308&filter=mallet

  5. Hmm… after second look maybe my comment applies more to wood chisels, but maybe it applies here…

    Are there special hammers for hitting cold chisels too?

  6. Zathrus says:

    @Benjamen:

    Yes, they’re called “sledge hammers” 😉

    For cold chisels, I’d think that the various hand guards built into the chisels are better.

    For wood chisels, sure, use a big ass mallet… but you’re not supposed to be whomping the crap out of the thing anyway…

  7. fred says:

    For struck steel tools – the face and rim of the hammer should be tempered.
    Ball Pein and Cross Pein Hammers were the choice for punches. The Old Stanley Jobmaster series featured tempered rims.

    For chisels – you went to hand sledges and drilling hammers

  8. kyle says:

    i like the idea of using vise gips better but if you use them a lot this is probly a better way to go

  9. dom says:

    Specialty tool. Not necessary, but hey, he who has the most tools wins.

    It’s good for when you have to bust a recessed nut or bolt where you can’t get your hand in to hold the chisel.

    With cold chisels, best to use a 4 lb. drilling hammer (a sledgehammer that can be wielded with one hand, has a short handle), and just drop the hammer straight down on the chisel, as opposed to using a lighter hammer and swinging it in an arc like you were pounding a nail. You can find 4 pounders in most hardware stores.

    They’re called drilling hammers ’cause back in the day holes were drilled in stone by pounding hand-held manual star drills with them. Kids, usually sons of the quarrymen, would sit cross-legged on the ground or wood box and hold a 3 foot long star drill perpendicular — with the star drill between their crossed legs no less. After every whack with a 16-20 pound sledge by dad or uncle, the kid would give the star drill a quarter turn. To halve the time needed to drill, two guys, one on the right and left of the kid, would be swinging sledgehammers alternatingly.

    Sounds like a dicey thing to do, hold onto the star drill, but the guys swinging the sledgehammers were like Willie Mosconi. They could guide the sledgehammer through a big arc and then drop it dead on the star drill without bouncing off and hitting the kid — like getting the cue ball to stop exactly where it hit the target ball head-on.

    What’s tool talk without some history thrown in.

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