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When cutting crown molding, you’ve usually got two choices:  1) Calculate the compound angle and actually use your compound miter saw to its full potential, or 2) cut it upside down and backwards.  Both of these non-intuitive methods can lead to expensive mistakes.  Screw that — why not use a jig like Milescraft’s Crown45 that lets you cut the the crown molding just like you’ll put it up on the wall?

You can easily adjust the Crown45 to match the spring angle of the crown molding you’re installing.  The wide cutting surface handles moldings from 2″ to 5-1/2″ wide, and an indented cutting face handles moldings with details that stand proud of the molding, which are common in dentil-style molding.  When you’re done cutting, the Crown45 collapses relatively flat for easy storage.

Street pricing for Milescraft’s Crown45 starts at $30.

Crown45 [Milescraft]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

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5 Responses to Cut Crown Molding Without The Head Games

  1. Randy says:

    Seems like it would chip out the bottom of the finished part cutting it like that.

  2. McAngryPants says:

    SOLD!!!!

  3. Randy:

    This is what it says on the site:

    “Orientation of the molding to the saw blade ensures no break out on the finished surface.”

    I would guess that the finished surface includes the bottom. But arent’ you going to have the same problem upside down and backwards — It’s a miter saw problem, the plate on the rotating table has too big of an opening.

    I think the solution would be to put a zero clearance plate on the rotating table. I know my Dewalt chop saw accepts custom plates, I would think most Miter saws do.

  4. BC says:

    Fine-toothed negative hook blades and cutting slowly will also help eliminate the chip-out in addition to a zero clearance insert.

  5. Leaf says:

    the problem with a zero clearance insert is as soon as you cut a different bevel it is just a plain old insert, plus you would be surprised how much deflection some saws have, ether just in the mechanism for a slider, or even in the blade if it is a 12″. Again the blade ends up cutting some other place than were it was for the last cut. What you need to do is have a sacrificial piece of plywood that the piece rides on and advance it closer to the blade for every cut.

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