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We don’t get around to cutting much stone or masonry around the Toolmonger shop, but these Turbo Rim diamond blades interest us.  Makita says their slick, no-segment design provides constant contact with material and delivers a smoother finish than segmented blades.

It’s hard to believe that such a small change as a solid rim can make such a big improvement, but we’ve seen them tucked into quite a few stone and masonry saws on jobsites where hardcore cutting is going down. We’ve talked to guys who swear by them — and others who just shrug and say their segmented blades have always worked fine.

What do you think? Are these smooth operators already entrenched as the best way to go?  Or do all the blades cut about the same, as long as the heat’s whisked away? Let us know in comments.

Turbo Rim Masonry Blades [Makita]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]


5 Responses to Hot or Not? Makita’s Turbo Rim Masonry Blades

  1. fred says:

    Maybe my tile sub would use the 4-1/2 inch size (he uses angle grinders with dy-cut blades) – but we will stick to Quasar blades for our masonry saws.
    Besides the largest blade that Makita makes in this line is 7-1/4 – not much use in our 14inch saws (12-14 inch saws are pretty standatd for masonry work)

  2. Barri says:

    I have used these types of blades in the UK for the last 2 years. Not makita mind you but exactly the same design. We use the type that will cut metal as well as concrete so when we hit rebar it goes through like a hot knife through butter. Beware thought tarmac will mess these blades in one fall swoop. Far better than seg blades because of the smoother cut.

  3. fritz gorbach says:

    Try the cheap ass version from harbor freight. They cut smooth and are pretty durable…and just a couple of bucks on sale. I always keep one or two with my angle grinder. Also try their diamond cup wheel for planing concrete and stone. Maybe these aren’t as durable as the pricey models. I can’t say cause I only use them occasionally, but i’ve been using the same set for a year with no problem.

  4. Iguana's Paradise says:

    1. 14″ is the size you want in masonry.
    More important, though, is that you want a saw with the engine’s shaft sideways the same as the axle through your blade.

    The old Stihl (sp?) saws have the engine shaft at some other angle (front-to-back?), so changing the speed of the engine TWISTS the damn thing, while you’re cutting $$$$ stone.

    Makes cutting fine lines impossible.

    Turbo vs segmented?

    If you’re gonna hit rebar or mesh, you want turbo (safety).

    Turbo cuts a wider hole than segmented.

    The cheapest diamond blades are “single use”, which means they are useless.

    The good ones are, oh, pricey.

    They sometimes explode (a friend had chunks of blade embedded in her by her exploding blade – she hates motorized cutters, now).

    I prefer the wet cutting blades, because of no dust.

    A light touch with a 7″ or 14″ diamond blade, and they last and last and last…
    … while the stone just melts away.

    Quite peaceful work, if you’ve got good earplugs in.

  5. Dick says:

    I use Harbor Frieght segmented diamond blades daily, being as I’m a brick layer, They’ve yet to let me down, cut just as fast as the pricey blades, and best of all, they don’t explode.

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