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Fuse Saver

Automotive wiring is black magic — how else could a short in the right front headlight cause the rear left blinker to burn out? When troubleshooting this sort of voodoo, you need all the help you can get. IPA’s Fuse Saver lets you get on with troubleshooting without repeatedly replacing the same fuse or foolishly bridging the contacts — like you haven’t thought about it.

The Fuse Saver consists of a two-sided plug that fits into the most common fuse receptacles, a 10′ cord, and 10A, 15A, and 20A breaker handles. Plug the fuse saver into the panel and the correct amperage handle into the other end of the cord. When the circuit overloads, just press the breaker button on the top of the handle and keep troubleshooting the short without going back to the fuse panel.

Pricing for the Fuse Saver starts at $55. Supposedly, IPA also sells a 5A breaker handle.

Fuse Saver [IPA]
Street Pricing
[Google Products]
Via Amazon(B000RFINY8) [What’s This?] [What’s This?]


8 Responses to Fuse Saver Saves Sanity Too

  1. Baron says:

    You sure aren’t kidding! My ’70 Chevy truck had a loose connection coming from the battery terminal that was causing all sorts of weird issues. One in particular would allow all the lights to work when the truck was off, but as soon as you turned it on, all the lights would stop working and if you tried to turn them on, I want to say the truck would almost die (plus they wouldn’t come on anyway). After much prodding with a standard light tester, I managed to trace some of those black magic wires to a single lose screw. If I had someone hit the lights while I was watching the screw and the truck was on, there was a large arc and that was it, havoc. If I turned them on w/o the truck running, no problem.

  2. ShopMonger says:

    Were was this when i was building old cars for a living

  3. Clark F says:

    As a tech, Id just like to point out that automotive wiring IS NOT black magic. If properly understood (meaning an education), and with access to the right tools (multimeter – not a test light) automotive wiring is actually very simple and the basic laws and principles apply to almost any problem. This looks like a great tool, and another trick many people use, is to replace the fuse with a large headlight. This provides a load on the circuit when trying to diagnose problems, and helps in locating because you can see whether or not the light turns on/off when unhooking connectors, etc. Plus, you dont have to reset it and its hard to miss a big headlight. Ive seen many homemade versions, but none that are actually for sale.

  4. Clark F:

    While you are right it isn’t black magic, the fact that it takes any separate “education” at all to understand automotive wiring is ridiculous.

    The problem is that manufacturers are cheap and don’t run the return path (ground) through wires back to the battery instead they use the auto itself as the return path. This ends up creating all kinds of ground loops and other cross connections between what should be totally separate circuits — making it way, way more difficult to troubleshoot simple problems.

    If they wired planes like they wired cars, they would drop out the the sky much more frequently.

  5. Chris says:

    Benjamen: it’s not just manufacturers being cheap, although copper is very expensive these days. Carrying all that extra weight around wouldn’t do much for gas mileage, either. Cars are heavy enough as it is.


  6. Dan says:

    Chris: What to wires really weight in comparison to the rest of the car?

  7. Chris says:

    Dan: Copper is fairly heavy. What Ben proposes would approximately double the amount of copper required in the vehicle, and that’s probably somewhere in the neighbourhood of 50-80 pounds. That’s significant, even on a two-ton truck.


  8. Clark F says:

    To clarify, I’m an International Truck tech. Their new multiplexed electrical systems cut down on something like 100 pounds of wiring, mostly from the less then 10 wires going to the dashboard versus 90 or so before. Wiring gets heavy.

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