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RustyBolt450.jpg

When it’s time to remove a bolt or nut like this, you usually start by introducing it to the business end of a recip saw or a wire wheel — and then the real work starts. I’ve heard that the easiest approach is to weld on a nut or sawed-off bolt so that the remaining part of the bolt can be backed out, but I don’t have enough welding experience to know what alloy to use.  According to some welders I’ve talked with, Messer Welding MG 600 will do the trick if the metals involved are steel; it provides the high tensile strength necessary to twist out a bolt that’s rusted stuck.

What would you use? Let us know in comments.

Photo from cheetah100 posted on Flickr.

MG 600 [Messer Welding]
Toolmonger Photo Pool [Flickr]

 

8 Responses to Broken Bolts In Metal

  1. Bart'sDad says:

    I’ve used “Super Missile Weld” rod for years with great results. The heat from welding helps break loose the rust, and you generally end up with something longer to grip. It should be noted it is very easy to create more of problem than you started with if you are not very careful.I would not recommend this for the beginner welder. I’ve also had success with MIG welding to do this, but you lose some strength and don’t usually generate enough heat

  2. Dustbuster7000 says:

    Looks like a job for the ‘gas axe’ (oxy-acetylene torch), assuming you don’t mind a bit heat spilling over into the nearby components. Its going to sputter and pop a bit as it moves through various bits of rust and base metal, but you should be able to get the nut off in fairly short order. After that you need to get a drift or a pin punch or something and knock the bolt out of the hole. If the hole is threaded, then you might consider using the torch to heat up the surrounds to loosen the rust per the above comment (Bart’sDad).

  3. MR P says:

    I cant tell how big that bolt is but i have used grip tite sockets work great http://www.bt-andf.com/index.php

    and there is the the gator grip
    http://www.endeavortool.com/

    they have one called the sumo for $600 it can take on the big nuts
    http://www.endeavortool.com/Gator_Grip_Gatekey/page/Gator_Grip_Gatekey.html?PHPSESSID=5294d2f49ce7cc990b4fa9ec0454453a

  4. MAPP torch + Kroil + some whacks with a hammer takes care of most stuff like this. Otherwise I’ll just drill it out and re-tap the hole. As Bart’s Dad said, welding is a last last last resort for when there’s not access to get a drill into place. No desire to weld the bolt in place accidentally.

  5. jbj says:

    clean it up and JB Weld a new bolt to the head

  6. Casey says:

    jbj Says:

    June 13th, 2008 at 4:31 pm
    clean it up and JB Weld a new bolt to the head

    Amen!

  7. Donny B says:

    JB weld? I don’t think will hold up to the stress. But welding is tough, it is a great solution but………………… wathc out for heat sink- spread and also becarful not to let the tip go near the threaded area inside the bolt…..

    Then of course go to having old sockets around that you can “smash” onto the bolt. Meaning find one that could fit with a lot of persuassion, then heat the socket up with a torch, smash it on with a 3 pound hammer and then wait for it to cool and hit it with a high impact hammer, a sledge , or just a Long extenstion bar…..

  8. ambush27 says:

    When Welding a nut to a broken stud or bolt use an asbestos washer under the nut to prevent welding it to the surface. the method I would use largely depends on the severity of the rust and the grade of bolt, sometimes no matter what you do to the head they’ll break off further down and you have to drill and tap it anyway.

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