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To cut wood fast, you normally want to go with a circular or table saw, but the blades often leave rough spots and can also rip out tiny chunks of material, which makes your edge look like crap. Then you spend lots of time sanding the piece to make it nice and smooth. The Final Cut system claims to eliminate that post-cut sanding completely — a pair of sanding discs, one on each side of the blade, allows it to cut and sand the workpiece at the same time.

You can opt for the 40-tooth Final Cut blade with the discs or just the discs themselves. We’re not yet sure how well it works, but anything that claims to cut down on sanding time has our attention. It’s a bit on the steep side at $74 for the blade and the discs or $73 for six pairs of discs, but we’re still tempted by the prospect of less sanding.

Final Cut Blade System [Official Site]
Blade and Discs [Final Cut]

 

17 Responses to Final Cut Blades

  1. Steve says:

    Holy cow! I was wishing for this! A few weeks ago I was banding some plywood with maple strips. Cutting the strips on my miter saw was no problem, but to tweak the miters just perfect I would cut them a little long, and then shave to fit – just so. I was wishing that I had a bench disc sander with a miter gauge on it – but as I was staring at the saw, I thought how great it would be to have a sanding surface on the side of the blade. Cut it just a RCH proud, check the fit, and touch it to the spinning blade to bring the miter to perfect.

    I little pricey, but I’d like to give it a shot.

  2. Fredex says:

    Isn’t that just going to burn the wood with friction heat?

  3. Jim says:

    I use Forrest brand saw blades exclusively on all my stationary machines, chop/miter saw and Festool plunge saw. The quality of the cut is excellent and does not require any additional preparation. Forrest blades have been consistently top rated in any blade comparison test conducted by the major woodworking journals.

  4. fred says:

    Re Steve Says:

    “Cut it just a RCH proud, check the fit, and touch it to the spinning blade to bring the miter to perfect.”

    This sounds very unsafe to me.

  5. fred says:

    Here is an alternative to sanding or planing miters:

    http://www.lionmitertrimmer.com/

  6. Gary says:

    As Jim says, Forest blades are great. Very clean cuts. You can also tape the board or ply you’re going to cut, then cut through the tape. You can also just use a block plane to clean up a miter or any other endgrain cut.

  7. Will says:

    If you want to use your table saw for miter sanding, you can get it for a bit less than this and without the blade teeth:

    http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1809

  8. SuperJdynamite says:

    I think you could get the same result with a sheet of sandpaper, a pair of scissors, and a can of 3M Super77 Spray Adhesive.

    Also, if you were willing to pay $75 for a mystery blade then why not spend an extra $25 and get a high-end blade that probably won’t require any extra sanding.

  9. Donny B says:

    Would have to agree………

    Freud for $39.99 from a big box…….

    Great smooth cuts….. well worth the money..

    Best money ever spent

    I would have to see many demos before even considering

  10. fred says:

    Re Gary Says:

    Forrest Duraline blades eliminate most of the need for taping plywood or laminates – but the ultimate answere sometimes is running the material through a scoring saw first – then completing the cut on a panel saw.

  11. fred says:

    What I forgot to add was that combination sliding table saws that have both scoring blades and cutting blades behind them – are used in some high-end cabinet shops.

  12. BC says:

    Eliminating sanding on cut lines is all about using machinery with no run-out, sharp blades, and the proper blade angles.

    Circ saws (miter, radial, table, any of those) spin anywhere from 3000-5500 rpm. Fine grit sandpaper, especially the A-weight, open coat paper that they apparently use here, will do nothing but burn your work, and load up faster than you can believe.

    That said, my company is a small abrasive converter, and you could EASILY make these out of some thin kerf Oldhams using good quality F- or J-weight closed coat abrasives, then sell ’em for half that price!!

  13. Mr P says:

    I Totally agree with Jim

  14. Putnameco says:

    Re:
    fred Says:
    Re Gary Says:
    but the ultimate answere sometimes is running the material through a scoring saw first – then completing the cut on a panel saw.
    ———
    You can get a panel saw with a scoring blade.

    http://www.csaw.com/striebig/compactplus.html

    ——————————-

    I hate this new thing, auto refreshing pages, Looses post if you take to long to finish your reply.

  15. John Shea says:

    Good god the Forest blades are expensive, 12″ blade for my miter saw is $137 – $247! Are they really worth that?

    John

  16. Teacher says:

    I’ll second hating the auto refreshing pages. What’s the purpose? I’ve lost three posts so far because of this.

  17. Fred Schuhmacher says:

    Final Cut Saw Blade: I ordered the 10″ Final Cut saw blade and used it for about a week when I noticed that the sandpaper started to come of at couple of places on the rim of the sandpaper, and the area where “Final Cut” is stenciled in the sandpaper was losing its bond to the blade. I decided to return the blade for a refund, which I promptly received. I don’t know if this was an isolated problem, but I lost confidence in the product

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