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Hole Pro X-305

Drilling holes in ceilings really, really sucks — dust gets in your eyes, which both stings and makes it difficult to see what you’re doing. You could wear uncomfortable chemical safety goggles or a whole face shield — or you could try Hole Pro’s solution: the Power X series twin blade hole cutters.

A high-impact ABS plastic shield encompasses the hole saw to capture all the dust and debris. Not only does it capture dust and debris when you’re drilling above your head, it also makes cleanup a snap when drilling into walls.

Hole Pro designed the shield with a unique tri-slot design which collects cuttings and helps keep the cutters and work surface visible. The shield also features a gearing screw that adjusts the hole depth and a ball bearing mount to ensure the hole stays perpendicular to the surface.

The included high-speed steel blades and the tungsten carbide blades cut plaster and lathe, wood, MDF, plywood, sheetrock, fiber-cement board, ceiling tiles, sheet metal, and plastic. The Power X cutters even come with their own carrying case.

Hole Pro makes the Power X twin blade adjustable hole cutter in 4 sizes:

  • The X-148 cuts 1-7/8″ to 5-7/8″ holes
  • The X-200 cuts 1-5/8″ to 8″ holes
  • The X-305 cuts 1-7/8″ to 12″ holes
  • The X-425 cuts 1-7/8″ to 17″ holes

The Hole Pro Power X hole cutters run anywhere from $100 to $140 depending on which size you buy.

Power X Series [Hole Pro]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
X-148 Via Amazon(B000XMIL1K) [What’s This?] [What’s This?]
X-200 Via Amazon(B000G1Q9JY) [What’s This?] [What’s This?]
X-305 Via Amazon(B000G1O8YM) [What’s This?] [What’s This?]
X-425 Via Amazon(B000G1OISI) [What’s This?] [What’s This?]

 

9 Responses to Dust Gets In Your Eyes…No More

  1. Kyle says:

    Maybe I’ve been using too cheap a version of these, but I always start using them then go back to a jigsaw or rotozip. When I use these, I can only get it to more or less score the sheetrock. You can then pretty easily punch it out, but sometimes you get an messed up edge. The rotozip just seems to put more control in my hands.

  2. Zathrus says:

    Or you could go the uber-cheap method — a paper plate with a hole cut out of the middle. Works better w/ the stiffer paper plates.

    No, you can’t see the bit or the work surface at that point, but it’s a heckuva lot cheaper. A slightly more expensive version that would give you visibility would be to do the same thing, but with a clear acrylic plate instead. Or, if you’re drilling a small enough hole, a clear plastic cup.

    I’ve done the paper plate bit before though — worked fine as a one-off thing for DIY.

  3. Zathrus, I like the clear plastic plate and cup idea… especially for a home owner or handy man that is only going to use it every once in a while. I the Hole Pro is really meant for some-one who does this every day.

    Just pick up some cheap packages of clear plates and cups, keep them in the back of your truck and your ready for drilling, or an impromptu kegger.

  4. PutnamEco says:

    Hot for rock, not for plaster n lath.

  5. Zathrus says:

    Benjamen — I agree this is for the pro; just wanted to put that out there for the DIYer or anyone else who might have an occasional use for doing this.

    Note that this does a lot more than just keep the crap out of your face too.

  6. MoobyDoo says:

    I have used this for doing 6″ & 4″ recessed lighting installs throughout the house and they make life significantly easier by giving you both an accurate cut and perfectly reproducible circles every time. The only thing you have to be aware of, and might be Kyle’s problem, is that you generally need a very powerful drill.

    Most cordless don’t generate enough torque to go through very well. I used my grandfather’s old 1950s beast of a corded drill after my 18V portable didn’t do much but make scratches. The bigger and much more powerful drill sliced right through the drywall and left perfectly clean cut-outs.

    Lastly, rock is a heck of an abrasive, so you need to keep the cutters in top shape with regards to sharpening. Also, feed it in somewhat slowly, like you would wood cutters. Instead of burning wood you’ll just grind your drill to a halt and not make any progress.

  7. Phil says:

    I do the same thing, but with a hole saw and half of an old basketball.

  8. Bill says:

    Trouble with those things is the dust tends to get on the lip and then leaves a mark on the ceiling.

  9. Eric says:

    We have one of these that we use when installing commercial AV systems. As a rule, we only use it on unpainted rock ceilings. Guaranteed to leave a nasty mark on painted surfaces. That said, when you have to install 24 8″ ceiling speakers, one of these babies is a dream come true.

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