jump to example.com

After drilling, gluing, and screwing each side, we added the center brace to increase stability.  We simply pre-drilled and screwed in the outside, using just glue to hold the inside joints together.

post-db25.jpg  post-db26.jpg  post-db27.jpg

While allowing the glue to set for two to three hours, we covered the backboard with felt, alternately stapling it down in the back and stretching it over the board.

Once the glue was set, we applied filler putty to mask the countersink holes over the screws.  Then we applied three thick coats of sanding sealer — each an hour apart to allow for proper drying — which helped to fill the small grain-gaps and scratches in our inexpensive pine boards and trim. 

post-db28.jpg  post-db29.jpg  post-db30.jpg

Since our boards were rather straight — and we’re planning on using satin paint — we were able to jump right to some 240 grit sandpaper.  A few hours of sanding left us with a nice, smooth surface to accept paint.  Applying the rattle-can satin black was easy.  (Remember that there’s no need to paint the center brace as no one — but you — will ever see it.)

 post-db31.jpg  post-db32.jpg  post-db33.jpg

After applying another coat of paint and leaving it overnight to dry, we carried the finished frame, backboard, and trim inside for installation.  We used fourteen small screws and seven metal brackets to attach the backboard to the bracing (as pictured). 

post-db34.jpg  post-db36.jpg  post-db35.jpg

We then used a hot glue gun to install the trim over the edges of the backboard, hiding the slight gaps and any rough edges.  We chose hot-glue because it’s strong enough to stand up to a dart hit or ten, but weak enough to allow us to pull off the trim later to remove and re-felt the backboard.  We clamped the trim down to allow it to dry straight.

post-db37.jpg  post-db38.jpg  post-db39.jpg

Finally, we used two metal brackets to mount the framed backboard firmly to the wall.

Read on to page 3 to see the finished product.

pages: 1 2 3


11 Responses to How-To: Build a Dart Board Surround to Save Your Wall

  1. Toolaremia says:

    Step 1: Practice, practice, practice.
    Step 2: Build dart board surround.
    Step 3: Hide gazillion holes in wall from practicing with new surround.

    Very detailed howto. Nicely done.

    I notice, however, the screws are still philips head… 😉

  2. Sean O'Hara says:

    Oh man!!

    We’re SO busted on that! lol, you’re awesome Toolaremia!

    ~ Sean

  3. Toolaremia says:

    I forgot a step:
    Step 1.5: Act remorseful when wife/girlfriend/significant other/parent complains about gazillion holes in wall.

  4. duh says:

    why not use ceiling tiles

  5. I was taught that it was unsafe to wear gloves when using a table saw (or other rotational power tools).

  6. KenMarshall says:

    Thanks for helping

  7. Dunks says:

    cheers for that, it will help greatly for my design and tech project

  8. SteveMullo says:

    I love this site! I was going to type something more profound but I just got a call and have to go.
    But I’ll be back. 🙂

  9. ron says:

    We build this dart board. It looks great but the darts don’t stick in the wood and just fall on the floor!!!!

  10. Raphael says:

    Hey Chuck,

    whats the Name of the Dartboard and where did you get it from ?

    Best Wishes,


  11. todd says:

    What kind of metal brackets were used to mount the board?