And no, they don’t mean the Miami kind. The long-time vise manufacturer is holding a sweepstakes in which they’ll select their favorite story and bestow its teller with five grand. All “qualified” entrants will receive a “free Wilton C-clamp.” We’re not sure what “qualified” means, but after our quick read of the press [...]]]>

And no, they don’t mean the Miami kind. The long-time vise manufacturer is holding a sweepstakes in which they’ll select their favorite story and bestow its teller with five grand. All “qualified” entrants will receive a “free Wilton C-clamp.” We’re not sure what “qualified” means, but after our quick read of the press release, it looks like you just have to be over 21.

Some of the stuff you’ll be competing with for the grand prize includes a guy from Canton, Ohio, who’s owned his Wilton for 40 years and a gunsmith from Georgia who scavenged his off the rear bumper of a service truck.

So hey: Story = free clamp. The sweepstakes closes September 14th, and you can find out more about the whole thing at the link below.

Submit Your Story [Wilton]

MAC Tools announced five new automotive specialty tools recently, including the hammer you see pictured above, which they claim is designed specifically for coaxing auto interiors into place. At first glance, it looks pretty much like the rubber mallet Sean and I have used for years for the same purpose. And honestly, that’s pretty [...]]]>

MAC Tools announced five new automotive specialty tools recently, including the hammer you see pictured above, which they claim is designed specifically for coaxing auto interiors into place. At first glance, it looks pretty much like the rubber mallet Sean and I have used for years for the same purpose. And honestly, that’s pretty much what it is… with two slight differences. First, the handle is a little longer and more grippy than most of the mallets I keep around the shop, and second, MAC added a third rubber tip on the end of the handle.

While we might poke fun at a pro-line specialty tool that bears exceedingly close resemblance to a dime-store standby, we can definitely attest to the handiness of a soft rubber mallet for putting dashboards back together. If you recall our fight with the old F150 that I (thankfully) no longer own, then you’ve seen at least one application where we hammered away to get everything to line up right. The trick is finding a mallet that’s soft enough to avoid plastic damage, yet hard enough to actually force the part in place. If the MAC hammer is indeed right in that hardness zone, it could be a winner. Of course, it’s damn difficult to tell from a picture.

The other tools released at the same time include a specialty brake spring tool, a brake spring plier set, some air filter cleaners, and a Ford Triton engine insert kit. For additional information on any of these — or to get your grubby mitts on one of these hammers — you’ll need to talk to your friendly MAC truck operator. I guess for now we’ll just eke by with our carefully selected partially-hardened-from-age-to-the-perfect-hardness cheap-ass rubber mallet.

Over the last few years I’ve developed a love for making furniture out of wood. I’ve built almost every kind of furniture one might put in a traditional home, incuding tables. I’m not a pro woodworker and certainly not a master of anything, but I’ve felt for the last few years like I had a good bead [...]]]>

Over the last few years I’ve developed a love for making furniture out of wood. I’ve built almost every kind of furniture one might put in a traditional home, incuding tables. I’m not a pro woodworker and certainly not a master of anything, but I’ve felt for the last few years like I had a good bead on things…until I saw this DB Fletcher automated table.

I have at least heard of Jupe tables that expand by hand and have inserts that lock in place. The thought of building one had always lingered in the back of my brain somewhere between building a deck and learning to play guitar. However, after seeing the automated smoothness of the DB Fletcher version I think my jaw dropped and all aspirations of making the ultimate cool table dropped a hundred fold. It’s genius — pure, brain-bending genius. There are a few drawbacks to this version though; DB Fletcher only operates in England from what we can tell, and we’re guessing that table is depressingly expensive.

Fletcher Automated Capstan Table [YouTube]
Jupe Style Expanding Table [YouTube]

With the introduction of the green-batteried li-ion line a few years ago, we became fans of Ryobi’s power tools. While the early (blue) One+ line pretty much defined (in our opinion, at least) the price-cheap and quality-cheap low-buck tool line, the updated li-ion versions flat blew us away. We thought the li-ion One+ drill [...]]]>

With the introduction of the green-batteried li-ion line a few years ago, we became fans of Ryobi’s power tools. While the early (blue) One+ line pretty much defined (in our opinion, at least) the price-cheap and quality-cheap low-buck tool line, the updated li-ion versions flat blew us away. We thought the li-ion One+ drill compared favorably to models offered at twice the price; you could actually pick up a whole multi-piece kit for under $200. That’s not bad. Of course, Ryobi has always been in the garden tool market as well, so we’re interested to see what comes of Ryobi’s new 40V li-ion line, which applies most of the same technology to a battery pack large enough to power higher-draw tools, like the chain saw pictured above.

The specs look pretty encouraging. Despite looking larger in photos, that’s a 12″ bar in the picture — just about right for the kind of small trimming and pruning jobs it’s likely to see in its target market: the home. And while gas-powered saws will probably always dominate the heavy-duty use market, there’s a lot to be said for the low-maintenance convenience of electric for the homeowner, who won’t want to keep gas and oil (or mix) on hand and re-adjust the damn saw every time they pick it up.

The line launches sometime this summer, so we’ll update you again when we know more about actual street pricing and/or get a chance to take a look at these in person. As with all such tools — and especially the lower-priced ones — the test will be how well these hold up compared to their more expensive rivals. What do you think? Would you consider trying out a Ryobi string trimmer? Or lawn mower?

The 40V Garden Tool Line [Ryobi]
The 40V Chainsaw [Ryobi]

FOD sucks. (That’s Foreign Object Damage, or what happens when you leave something behind when you’re working on something critical like an airplane or a race car. Wrenches, you know, can really muck up operating jet engines.) For years, shops that work on such sensitive gear have gone to great lengths to assure that [...]]]>

FOD sucks. (That’s Foreign Object Damage, or what happens when you leave something behind when you’re working on something critical like an airplane or a race car. Wrenches, you know, can really muck up operating jet engines.) For years, shops that work on such sensitive gear have gone to great lengths to assure that every tool that leaves the toolbox makes it back home. When I was a kid and I’d visit my dad at work (he worked in aircraft maintenance), I’d see lots of tool silhouettes –pegboards with tool shapes painted on them in bright colors so you’d see color only when the tool normally stored there was missing.

Well, technology marches on. CribMaster, a company that sells all sorts of automated inventory management products, teamed up with Proto to offer professional-quality tools with integrated RFID tags. By mounting tag readers at various choke points (like the door to a hangar, for example) computer systems can automatically read the passage of the tools and mark them in the system as checked out or checked back in. The new brand: ProtoID.

What I wonder is how long it’ll be until this technology trickles down to home use. Certainly there’s a place for it in the professional world, and integrating the tags into the tool itself rather than simply attaching them must be sound pretty attractive to corporate buyers. And this system can’t be nearly as expensive as it would’ve been even a few years ago, which means it might make sense for less-sensitive businesses which are worried about theft or misplacement of tools. But if you could afford it, this would be badass for keeping your tool from falling into the neighbor’s coveting paws. Or getting left in the upstairs bathroom after you repaired a toilet.

Anyway, if you’re interested in how the system works, you can find out more on the company’s website, below. If you click through, be sure to check out the links along the left side of the page where you’ll find everything from toolboxes which automatically check out/in tools, software to handle the record keeping, and even some tool vending machines.

RFID Embedded ProtoID Tools [CribMaster]

Imagine yourself as a marketing pro confronted with selling a new hand tool — like the aviation snips pictured above. You have to convey to people walking by in the big box aisle what makes your snips different from everyone else’s. But here’s the problem: snips look like, well, snips. Look at the picture [...]]]>

Imagine yourself as a marketing pro confronted with selling a new hand tool — like the aviation snips pictured above. You have to convey to people walking by in the big box aisle what makes your snips different from everyone else’s. But here’s the problem: snips look like, well, snips. Look at the picture above! They’re snips.

Of course, the designers would disagree. Whether you agree or disagree with their decisions, it’s clear from the press release that Wiss’ engineers put some thought into them. For example, let’s start with the cutter blades. Wiss added CNC-machined wave-pattern serrations on both blades to “provide more aggressive shearing action, higher resistance to tooth breakage, and longer blade life.” They also use an investment casting process — a relatively old process known for its increased accuracy over sand casting.

The feature list continues: a “free-floating pivot bolt design” reportedly spreads side loads more evenly across the bolt, increasing life over threaded-bolt designs. Wiss also makes the snips out of valve-grade steel.

Granted, we haven’t seen these snips in person, so we can’t tell you for sure whether or not this effort translates into a kick-ass product or not. But we are pleased to see the information included in the press release. You’d be shocked how often we get press releases that don’t tell us anything at all about a product — and certainly nothing about why the company made the design choices they made. Sometimes we’re lucky enough to get to talk to the people behind the product, and each time we seem to uncover something really interesting, even when the tools seem pretty ordinary.

So here’s the big question: What makes one pair of aviation snips better than another? Personally, I suspect that the floating bolt would make a difference for me. I’ve owned pivoting tools (pliers, cutters, etc.) that bit the dust due to a threaded bolt. But what about the serrations? I checked, and none of the snips I currently own are serrated.

Wiss HVAC Snips [Warning: PDF Link]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

I guess all the talk of expensive LED products this week got us wondering: Does the company known for offering drool-worthy-yet-astronomically-priced tools offer a simple worklight? Answer: yes. You’re looking at it. And it checks in at a whopping $175. (No, really.) So what exactly do you get for that much cash?

First of [...]]]>

I guess all the talk of expensive LED products this week got us wondering: Does the company known for offering drool-worthy-yet-astronomically-priced tools offer a simple worklight? Answer: yes. You’re looking at it. And it checks in at a whopping $175. (No, really.) So what exactly do you get for that much cash?

First of all, you get an array of six 3W LEDS which produce a clear, white light. According to Festool Owners Group reviews, the light is quite neutral, though one reviewer notes it’s “unpleasant to look at or get caught in the corner of your eye.” On the plus side, they also mention that it’s surprisingly bright — enough to brighten an entire room. They report good battery life, though not enough for a full “day” of use, at least on its internal battery. However, you can plug the light into the wall “for unlimited runtime” or even power it with various Festool batteries you might have for powering other Festool cordless tools.

So, the short version: It looks pretty cool. But seriously, $175 for a light? I just can’t see it.

SysLite LED Worklamp [FestoolProducts.com]

I know there’s a marketing blitz behind this, but I can’t help but enjoy the idea of a tool that survives without major functional changes for most of a century. Think about it: Since 1937, mankind went from early aviation to jet flight to the moon. Certainly the Model 77 has seen a bit [...]]]>

I know there’s a marketing blitz behind this, but I can’t help but enjoy the idea of a tool that survives without major functional changes for most of a century. Think about it: Since 1937, mankind went from early aviation to jet flight to the moon. Certainly the Model 77 has seen a bit of innovation over the years in terms of motor and material technology, but it remains essentially the same in shape and function — and it’s still a pretty popular model, despite lots of heavy competition.

I suppose a lot of this is due to the fact that the role the circular saw fills in the construction business isn’t as different as it might seem. We still build houses in much the same (basic) way we did 50+ years ago, at least in terms of framing. Most of the innovation seems to have come in materials or design, which has led to some significant improvements in blade technology. In the last few years we’ve seen significant improvements in circ saw blade design specifically, for a number of reasons: to handle the new materials, to increase battery life in cordless circs (since battery tech has finally caught up enough to make them somewhat feasible), and to improve life and performance. Note that the anniversary model 77 pictured above is loaded up with one of Skil’s titanium carbide blades.

Of course, a lot of folks prefer the simpler, cheaper, and certainly lighter sidewinder design. Sean, for example, is a big proponent of sidewinders, and I have to admit that I see his point. Even a small weight reduction makes a difference when you pick up a saw hundreds of times a day. When I built the shelves I wrote about a while back, I used two different circs to cut the shelf notches, and even after cutting only 60 notches, I could tell that one was heavier than the other. Then I looked up the difference: less than a pound.

We understand that the basic Model 77 still sells quite well. And if you happen to be in the market for one this year, Skil offers a “limited edition anniversary” model, which adds a custom black fleck paint finish, a chromed aluminum foot, a commemorative placard, and a commemorative blade. We found the anniversary model (the #MAG77-75 as opposed to the standard #SHD77M) for $190 online. Considering that the standard model sells for around $170, it might be worth a “what the hell” drop of a $20. I mean, you’re probably gonna be lookin’ at the thing for another 20-30 years, right?

One objection, though: despite creating a cool-looking custom product site and commissioning yet another corporate-themed chopper, we didn’t find much at all about the saw’s long history in the product literature. Skil, how ’bout a good story? We’re up for it!

Incidentally, what’s your favorite circ saw and why?

Skil 75th Anniversary Worm Drive [Custom Product Site/Skil]
Street Pricing [75th Anniversary Model]
Street Pricing [Standard 77]
Standard 77 Via Amazon [What’s This?]

Though a lot of people we’ve talked to don’t like the PS10 form factor — many seem happier with the drill-like PS20 pistol-grip style — I’ve always been a huge fan. The Bosch PS10 is hands down the best tool I’ve found for general light assembly and disassembly around the house and shop. For [...]]]>

Though a lot of people we’ve talked to don’t like the PS10 form factor — many seem happier with the drill-like PS20 pistol-grip style — I’ve always been a huge fan. The Bosch PS10 is hands down the best tool I’ve found for general light assembly and disassembly around the house and shop. For example, I used mine to quickly remove and re-drive about 30 machine screws to re-organize some 19″ rack mount gear in my studio. What makes the PS10 so great, IMO, is that the combination of its straight/90-degree shape and a trustworthy electronic clutch with soft-start — the trifecta for tasks like the ones I described above.

Admittedly, I’ve never really desired a drill-type chuck on the PS10, even though it does bear a strong physical resemblance to any number of small right-angle drills. But adding a chuck to the PS20 did wonders for its general usefulness. Does the same hold true of the PS11?

The specs seem to confirm that the PS11 is pretty much a PS10 + chuck. You get trigger-controlled variable speed (0-1,300 RPM) and torque maxes out at 101 in-lbs. — right in PS10 territory. But you also get a longer (and probably more comfortable) trigger on the PS11, a couple of small LED worklights, as well as a battery gauge and (most critically) a 3/8″ auto-lock chuck.

While I haven’t seen one of these in person yet, I suspect that (like the PS10) it’ll fall into a pretty narrow niche market — but will be the tool for that niche. If you’re constantly drilling small holes in relatively soft material in tight spaces, the PS11 would make a lot of sense. Now the big question: Who’s in that market? Maybe cable runners? Electricians? Help me out here. Is this something you’d use? How?

Expect to pay around $130-$150 for the -2A kit, which includes the tool, charger, two batteries, and a soft case — pretty much the same price as most of the PS-line of drivers.

PS11 12V MAX 3/8″ Angle Drill/Driver [Bosch]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

TM reader dgdaner asks: “I farm and ranch and keep the tools I use for fencing in a toolbox in the back of my fencing pickup. I’m too cheap to buy a full-size aluminum box that mounts permanently, so I use smaller (usually plastic) toolboxes that I can carry around. They stay out in [...]]]>

TM reader dgdaner asks: “I farm and ranch and keep the tools I use for fencing in a toolbox in the back of my fencing pickup. I’m too cheap to buy a full-size aluminum box that mounts permanently, so I use smaller (usually plastic) toolboxes that I can carry around. They stay out in the ND weather, and many times I go to use them I find the box half full of water. What’s your best suggestion for a replacement?”

He mentions that the best he’s seen (in his price range) was a Craftsman model which “didn’t use rivets to hold the hand on, so the lid is sealed.” We did a quick search (and looked around our local big box) and found a number of Stanley models that seem similar to the Craftsman the reader mentions. But I can think of at least one other possibility.

When I was a kid, my father brought me home a couple of smallish ammo cans, similar to the one pictured above. Not only are they quite sturdy, they’re also completely watertight. (They’ll often float if empty.) A quick Google search shows that you can buy similar cases online for around $15. There’s only one drawback: they’re a bit small for most tools.

On the other hand, I’ve seen identical cases sized for artillery shells. Even though the last time I checked the Army didn’t recycle them, I’m pretty sure they’re not available for sale — at least over the counter. But I bet you could find them pretty easily, and they’d make a great solution for the reader’s problem.

What do you think, though?

We try not to post too much snark here on Toolmonger, as that’s not really our style. But sometimes you just can’t help it. I caught this unremarkable BBQ grill over on Uncrate recently, and I almost dropped a brick in my shop chair: It’s probably the single best representation I’ve seen of the [...]]]>

We try not to post too much snark here on Toolmonger, as that’s not really our style. But sometimes you just can’t help it. I caught this unremarkable BBQ grill over on Uncrate recently, and I almost dropped a brick in my shop chair: It’s probably the single best representation I’ve seen of the “manly men” craze and just how much some people will pay to pretend to be the kind of people most Toolmongers naturally are.

Let me explain.

The barrel BBQ is a classic tradition among people who aren’t loaded with cash but do have access to a source of junk barrels, various scrap metal, and a welder. It’s not a gourmet solution; it’s a solution of simplicity. You want to grill. You have stuff lying around and a way to put it together, so you fire up the tools, cut the barrel in half, weld in a few tabs to hold a grill, tack together a stand for it, and then promptly dump in some charcoal, start eating steaks, and stop thinking about the assembly.

Barrels, you see, don’t really make excellent grills. The volume is often too big to cook for small-to-medium parties, so you have to use an imperial assload of charcoal to get the thing hot enough to sear steak. They do make reasonable smokers, though a good smoker will incorporate other features, like a way to stoke the fire without removing the grill and all the food along with it. If you were going to actually design a grill, you’d start with something shaped a lot differently than a barrel.

So what do you get for $950? Special coatings? A stand made of lacewood and unobtainium? Nope. You get a painted barrel on a stand with a mahogany handle (ooh!) and a thermometer. Oh yeah, and you get to believe that your neighbors will think you’re the hard-core DIY type.

Here’s a thought: Go get a nice new (or re-conditioned) steel barrel for $50-$75. Pick up a grill from the local big box. Weld in a few tabs. Pick up $30 worth of 1″ square tube and tack together a stand. Make a handle out of scrap wood — or whatever you’ve got lying around. Grill. Enjoy. Spend the other $700 on, I don’t know, food. For $950, I could build a grill out of stuff literally lying around the shop right now and buy steaks and beers for everyone I know locally.

Ok, I’m done ranting. But seriously — really? It’s fascinating to me that these things sell.

BBQ for Men [lkooq design]

Last week IKEA announced that they’ll soon sell furniture featuring an “integrated HDTV.” That’s right: You can now buy a TV stand complete with TV, BluRay player, and stereo for around $950. That’s the 24″ version.

But wait a minute. The local BuyMore offers a decent-looking low-end 24″ HDTV (complete with 1080p display) [...]]]>

Last week IKEA announced that they’ll soon sell furniture featuring an “integrated HDTV.” That’s right: You can now buy a TV stand complete with TV, BluRay player, and stereo for around $950. That’s the 24″ version.

But wait a minute. The local BuyMore offers a decent-looking low-end 24″ HDTV (complete with 1080p display) for $170. (I’m not, by the way, recommending this TV. It’s just the first one I came across. I found lots of them in this price range.) Brand-name BluRay players start around $65. And even though the IKEA offering only offers 2.1 sound, you can buy a pretty nice smallish 5.1 system for under $200. I’m not a math genius, but that adds up to around $435. So you’re essentially paying $515 for a crappy melamine-covered MDF cabinet and the loss of stereo component selection.

Maybe it’s just me, but this screams DIY.

Seriously, how hard is it to mount a TV? A friend of mine in California attached a nice backboard to a small hutch with nothing but dimensional lumber and bits and pieces from the local big box — and ended up with a solution every bit as nice-looking at what you see here from IKEA. I haven’t asked, but I’d be willing to bet he spent less than $100 on the project altogether. And how hard is it to pick out a TV, stereo, and BluRay player? The materials make it sound like a nightmare — you know, “making sure they work together” and “plugging them in.” I’m sure it’s way easier than assembling the IKEA piece, yeah?

Ok, IKEA-bashing aside, there is a place for a wall-like HDTV mount that doesn’t involve carving up the wall. This is a common problem for renters of all flavors, and this looks like a good solution for it.

So how many of you have built something similar? How’d you solve the problem of stabilizing the TV, and what would you do differently next time?

IKEA Announces Furniture w/Integrated TV, Speakers, BluRay [ExtremeTech]

In celebration of Earth Day, the LED light bulb that won a $10 million government competition to replace the standard 60-watt incandescent with something more green will go on sale at Home Depot — for $60. Ok, the manufacturer Phillips is “discounting” it to $50. Actually, Phillips claims that it’s working with other [...]]]>

In celebration of Earth Day, the LED light bulb that won a $10 million government competition to replace the standard 60-watt incandescent with something more green will go on sale at Home Depot — for $60. Ok, the manufacturer Phillips is “discounting” it to $50. Actually, Phillips claims that it’s working with other organizations to subsidize the bulb in order to get that price down to around $20-$30. But still: Is this cheap enough to encourage you to make the leap?

What sets the Phillips bulb apart from the many cheaper offerings already available is its output. While most LED bulbs deliver significantly less light than “equivalent” incandescents, the Phillips is reportedly pretty much interchangeable with a good ‘ole 60W. The Phillips light isn’t blue-white, either, but instead a more yellowish “warm” light like you’ve come to expect. So if these claims are true, it’s probably a lot easier sell for the family than the ones I’ve tried out, which made my room feel like a dimly-lit hospital.

Bottom line: I’m glad to see these available, and I hope that sooner or later we see them readily available in the $20 range, because that’s my price point. When I can pay $20 for a bulb that’ll (theoretically) last 25,000 hours and actually look pretty decent, I’ll go for it, replacing bulbs as they burn out around the house. But $50 is just way too much for one bulb.

Am I wrong?

Rebates to Cut Price of $60 Light Bulb [PhysOrg]

It’s been a comedy of failures around my place lately, with the “new” wearing off the house and its contents and lots of little issues cropping up. It’s given me a lot of opportunity to think about the perfect way to buy products you expect to use for years to come — whether that’s [...]]]>

It’s been a comedy of failures around my place lately, with the “new” wearing off the house and its contents and lots of little issues cropping up. It’s given me a lot of opportunity to think about the perfect way to buy products you expect to use for years to come — whether that’s a dishwasher, an air conditioning unit, or a high-end power tool. And I’ve discovered that no matter how I come at the problem, I almost always end up seeking a balance between price and features.

I know this seems pretty obvious, but looking a little deeper, it’s a lot harder to figure than one might suspect.

Take, for example, my dishwasher. The one that came with the house held up pretty well until about a year ago, when it started not getting all the crap off the dishes and generally being a pain in the ass. I put it back together a few times, fixing little issues and such, but recently it got so bad that we jokingly put a sign on it reading “please wash dishes before running dishwasher.” Doh.

And so the feature onslaught began. A basic “it washes dishes” dishwasher (placing it squarely ahead of the one I currently owned) started at around $300. Fancy models ranged upwards of $1,000. Where’s the price line? A little research uncovered that up to around the $500 point, quality ratings and available features increased steadily. But of the over-$500 models, some received great ratings and some less. Some even rated poorly on quality. My read: beyond the $500, I was buying features, not quality. So we bought right around that point — since we generally don’t care too much about the advanced features.

Power tools aren’t that different, at least in our experience. With some exceptions, of course, you generally see a pretty linear correlation between price and quality(/reliability) starting at the lowest-priced units up until some point — which we’ll call the “price/quality line” — at which the relationship breaks down. Some “above-the-line” units continue to follow the relationship, pricing higher and offering advanced features which increase reliability. But for the most part, above the line, you’re just buying individual features.

One other factor to consider with power tools: the job. What are you going to do with the tool? The biggest mistake we see tool consumers make is overestimating the needs of the jobs for which they’ll use their new tools. Bigger isn’t always better, and there are lots of downsides to buying a tool bigger and/or more powerful than you’ll need. For one, they’re more expensive. $150 to $200 will easily buy you a decent 18V drill/driver, but step up to a 36V model and you’ll pay twice that (or more). Sure, that extra torque lets you drill bigger holes, but how often do you need to drill a 1-3/4″ hole in 1/2″ steel? If the answer’s never, you probably wasted $150 or more on the 36V.

They’re heavier, too. If you drill that big-ass hole twice in the course of two years, but you drill smaller holes, say, 100 times, you lugged that sucker around 98 times unnecessarily. Consider, too, that you probably could have borrowed the big drill from a friend, or even rented one for less than your $150 difference.

Of course, this isn’t always the case, and I’m not suggesting that everyone should avoid buying large and powerful power tools. I’m just saying that it’s worth the time to examine one’s use cases before shelling out the dough. It’s a great way to uncover whether you want that monster tool because it’ll make your life better, or because Tim Allen made you think it’s cool.

So what do you think? What’s your thought process when you go tool (or dishwasher) shopping? How do you balance your needs and wants to buy tools that move you toward your project goals instead of holding you back from them?

Remember those cool screwdrivers Lowe’s released last year? You know, the ones that always turned the screwdriver the same way no matter which way you turned the handle? It looks like they’re out in the open now, and True Value has created a competing set that you’ll see in stores in the next few [...]]]>

Remember those cool screwdrivers Lowe’s released last year? You know, the ones that always turned the screwdriver the same way no matter which way you turned the handle? It looks like they’re out in the open now, and True Value has created a competing set that you’ll see in stores in the next few months. TV calls it the “SwiftDriver.”

If you’re having trouble visualizing how this works, I feel your pain. I had to see one (like the one pictured, though not exactly the one pictured) to get the concept. You ratchet it back and forth just like you would a standard “ratcheting” screwdriver, but instead of simply moving in one direction and “ratcheting” in the other, these drivers switch directions internally such that the screw head continues to turn forward as you ratchet your hand back into position to turn again. It’d be a bit difficult to use in really high-torque situations, but it kicks ass for removing machine screws and such. They strike a nice balance between the ease of a full-on power tool and the hand-driven sensitivity of a plain ‘ole screwdriver.

True Value’s version will MSRP for $25 and will sell in a kit form containing the driver, 7 Phillips bits, 3 slotted bits, 3 square recess bits, 4 star bits, and 6 SAE nut drivers. Look for it on shelves in May.

At first these snips from Fiskars smacked of gimmick. But the more I look, the more I think I might just want a set. The idea is simple: Fiskars claims they’ll cut just about anything you might find lying around the house, from paper to carpet to “light sheet metal.” It’s what a Swiss [...]]]>

At first these snips from Fiskars smacked of gimmick. But the more I look, the more I think I might just want a set. The idea is simple: Fiskars claims they’ll cut just about anything you might find lying around the house, from paper to carpet to “light sheet metal.” It’s what a Swiss Army knife would look like if you started with a pair of scissors instead of a pocket knife.

To start with, the ShopBoss features nice TPR-padded grips, which look pretty comfortable. The scissor motion isn’t compound, but does feature a nice bend in the grips that looks like it’d give you at least a little bit of leverage when you squeeze them. The blades are titanium coated, too, which makes them hard as hell — and less likely to bend instead of cutting. One side of the blades is serrated, so hopefully you can saw your way through whatever you can’t simply cut. A spring in between the grips adds a little “umph” to your cutting motion as well. Finally, you’ll find a notched cutter in between the top of the grips for cutting wire and an exterior notch for cutting twine. (The exterior notch doubles as a bottle opener, you lush.)

They retail for $30, but we found ‘em pretty easily online for $20. Hell, I’m considering a pair for my home tool kit. It’d do a great job of replacing the “big knife” my dad always recommended, at least for most stuff around the house.

The ShopBoss [Fiskars]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

I have a much older and much less nice-looking version of the square pictured above hanging around my shop. I use it primarily for metal work, but as I’m sure most Toolmongers will attest, once you start using a tool for one purpose, you’ll pretty much reach for it whenever you need to do [...]]]>

I have a much older and much less nice-looking version of the square pictured above hanging around my shop. I use it primarily for metal work, but as I’m sure most Toolmongers will attest, once you start using a tool for one purpose, you’ll pretty much reach for it whenever you need to do anything similar. So mine gets a little woodworking use as well. The one pictured above showed up in an Irwin press release we received last week, and though I’m not sure it’s really updated or new, I still wanted to mention it because at around $8 it’s just a great thing to have around.

The Irwin model lists a couple of basic features, including a cast zinc body, black-accented markings on the stainless-steel blade, and a nice little bubble-level. But honestly, I’d say you could pretty much pick up any model that looks and feels sturdy and solid. Let’s put it this way: I don’t know where mine came from. I found it in my dad’s stuff, and I still use it. I can’t really picture buying a replacement, unless I happened to find a need for two.

Combination Square [Irwin]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

So Bosch now offers not just one but two different masonry bit designs: Bulldog bits, designed for fast drilling through light-to-normal weight concrete, and now also a tougher line targeted for use in “reinforced concrete or harsh aggregate.” They call it the Bulldog Xtreme.

Cheesy X-name aside, this bit sounds like it has some [...]]]>

So Bosch now offers not just one but two different masonry bit designs: Bulldog bits, designed for fast drilling through light-to-normal weight concrete, and now also a tougher line targeted for use in “reinforced concrete or harsh aggregate.” They call it the Bulldog Xtreme.

Cheesy X-name aside, this bit sounds like it has some design pedegree. For example, the new bit features a solid-head carbide design, which Bosch claims helps it drill more quickly through nasty stuff (like rebar) while wearing down less at the same time as compared to other carbide-tipped bits. And Bosch utilizes a variety of manufacturing technologies to make the Xtreme, too, including a “proprietary diffusion-bonding technology” and a “high-heat, high-pressure solid state welding process” to keep the bits’ carbide and steel in one piece.

Also of interest: a bit shape design that incorporates a conical tip into the flutes in a way that Bosch suggests produces rounder holes — the better for setting anchors or fasteners.

I know. All this jargon gets boring fast (pun intended). But hey — if the bit actually works better, it really does make a difference to those who drill more than one or two holes at a time, which includes the majority of masonry pros. We haven’t tried ‘em out yet, but we look forward to giving them a go.

Look for these on shelves soon, in sizes from 3/16″ to 1-1/8″.

I remember years back when the only people making a vibrating multi-tool was Fein — charging a whopping pretty penny for it, too. Now you can buy similar products from just about every manufacturer in both corded and cordless versions. And Makita’s joined the party, too, with their catchy-named LXMT025, pictured above. This version [...]]]>

I remember years back when the only people making a vibrating multi-tool was Fein — charging a whopping pretty penny for it, too. Now you can buy similar products from just about every manufacturer in both corded and cordless versions. And Makita’s joined the party, too, with their catchy-named LXMT025, pictured above. This version is cordless, integrated into Makita’s 18V line. Yeah, it’s pretty much like all the others. But nothing drives innovation like competition, and this definitely represents more competition.

Specs look pretty similar to the rest: variable speed control, 6,000 to 20,000 OPM (orbits per minute), and a 3.2 degree oscillation angle. You also get a barrel-grip form factor, which should be familiar to anyone who’s used any of the similar models from other manufacturers. Street pricing looks to start around $320 for the kit, which includes the tool, two batteries, and a charger. Makita says the tool will be available as a bare tool as well, but we haven’t seen it sold online as such yet. Expect it in the near future — good news for those of you looking for one of these to accompany your existing 18V Makita collection.

LXMT025 Cordless Multi-Tool [Makita]
Street Pricing [Google]

Milwaukee has indeed made good on their promise to join DeWalt in entering the hand tool market under their power-tool-famous brand, and one of their new products even made it into our Favorites of 2011 list. This drywall saw caught my attention as well as a potential replacement for my Husky [...]]]>

Milwaukee has indeed made good on their promise to join DeWalt in entering the hand tool market under their power-tool-famous brand, and one of their new products even made it into our Favorites of 2011 list. This drywall saw caught my attention as well as a potential replacement for my Husky 5-in-1 drywall tool. Honestly, I hate the Husky, except for one thing: it works. It’s ugly, it’s awkward, and it looks like a Swiss Army knife designed for a two-year-old. But it does a great job of making accurate holes in drywall, so it gets a good bit of use around my house.

But when I sit down and really think about it, I spend probably 80% of my time with the Husky using the saw and the rasp. Considering that I have at least a dozen utility knives around the house, maybe a saw/rasp combination makes more sense.

This tool doesn’t exactly require a lot of explanation. It’s a saw, and it’s sharp enough to jab in to make its own pilot hole. The real difference between this and the jab saw I lost years ago is that Milwaukee cut four small slots into the saw’s blade, angling the edges to make what looks to be a pretty effective rasp. (For those of you who don’t accidentally knock holes in your walls often enough to need regular patching, the process generally consists of cutting out a roughly square hole then rasping down the edges bit by bit to square them off and/or make a perfect fit for your patch — or in-wall speaker or whatever it is you’re installing.)

Of course, each rasp style offers some advantages. The Milwaukee’s narrow rasp will work much better for adjusting hole shape in tiny amounts or for quickly widening a small hole. The Husky’s wide, flat rasp does a great job of straightening out long cuts, but is way too big to fit into smaller holes. So in the end, maybe I just need both.

Expect to pay around $10 for these in stores. In the short run, I think I’ll pick one up to toss in my household tool caddy. In the long run, I think I’ll end up ditching the 5-in-1 for a good jab saw, a nice long/flat rasp, and a quality utility knife.

Rasping Jab Saw [Milwaukee]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

In my neighborhood you’ll find fences of almost every possible (wood) construction, from basic no-gap picket fences (like mine) built with the cheapest pre-assembled panels and 4×4 wood posts that builders could source to mega-buck 8′ board-on-board fences with outside-the-yard metal posts and fancy cap/floor finishing. Certainly if one had an unlimited amount of [...]]]>

In my neighborhood you’ll find fences of almost every possible (wood) construction, from basic no-gap picket fences (like mine) built with the cheapest pre-assembled panels and 4×4 wood posts that builders could source to mega-buck 8′ board-on-board fences with outside-the-yard metal posts and fancy cap/floor finishing. Certainly if one had an unlimited amount of cash to spend, the latter would make a lot of sense. But how do these fences really rate in terms of value? And what features, if any, make more of a difference than others when it comes to function and longevity? I have a few ideas, but as I’ve owned exactly one fence (which is cheap and rotting, by the way), I thought it’d make more sense to ask TM readers who’ve maybe experienced a little trial and error.

That said, it seems to me that the board-on-board fences don’t seem to experience the same sagging problem that I see with picket fences. Mine is only six years old, yet the crosspieces are already bowed heavily, which means the boards themselves look staggered as hell. Some of my neighbors have simply capped theirs, adjusting the cap to hide the stagger, but that strikes me as a somewhat lame solution, at least if you’re planning to stay in the house. Does anyone happen to know of any other advantages to the caps in terms of functionality?

Footers look really nice, but won’t they pretty much rot at the same rate as the fence itself? I figure the only way to really make a difference when it comes to rotting would be to pour a concrete footer around the entire fence line, which (while cool) would be incredibly expensive. There’s got to be a better way to deal with this. Maybe clear out the undergrowth and treat the ground?

Clearly metal posts make a lot more sense. My wood posts have rotted out pretty heavily, and during heavy rain/wind combinations a couple of them have even started to lean. Still, I wonder if selecting better quality wood might make wood posts last a bit longer.

Finally, any recommendations on fence material? The only options I see here are cheap-ass-whatever-they-got-cheaply or cedar.

Thanks in advance for your ideas, and if the response warrants it, maybe I’ll follow up with some additional research and posts. I’m not in a position to do anything for myself fence-wise right now, but I’ve seen a lot of people go through the process, and I think a little sharing on this subject would do a lot of readers (including me) some good when it does come time to do it ourselves.