From the (virtual) mail bin: “Have you seen or used the one-handed reciprocating saw? Home Depot and Lowe’s both have one, and I was wondering how well they work.” Indeed we have. Read on for details.

Much like the PS20 first exposed the masses to the idea that bigger wasn’t necessarily better when it [...]]]>

From the (virtual) mail bin: “Have you seen or used the one-handed reciprocating saw? Home Depot and Lowe’s both have one, and I was wondering how well they work.” Indeed we have. Read on for details.

Much like the PS20 first exposed the masses to the idea that bigger wasn’t necessarily better when it comes to drill drivers, Milwaukee’s compact Hackzall carried the compact theme through to the recip line. We first previewed the Hackzall back in 2008, and I later wrote about it for Popular Science as well. We’ve loved the thing. In fact, we liked it so much that we named it one of our 2008 favorites. Since then, Bosch followed suit with their own take, and now we see a variety of models in various form factors.

In many ways, the compact versions are entirely different tools than the standard recip. Like the Hackzall, they almost all feature shortened stroke length, usually somewhere around 1/2 inch versus a standard recip’s 3/4 to 1-1/4 inch. Around the time of the Hackzall launch, Milwaukee engineers told us that the prime reason for this was to increase battery life, as compact cordless models like the Hackzall and Bosch’s PS60 rely on small 10.8-12v batteries that don’t pack a lot of juice. But there’s a side benefit to short stroke, too: it makes the thing a whole lot easier to control. We had no problem using the Hackzall single-handed in a lot of situations, which we wouldn’t imagine trying with a full-size saw.

They also all feature much different shapes and grip profiles than their larger brethren. The Hackzall and Bosch both take a pistol-grip approach, with the saw jutting out at a vertical angle. This looks pretty odd at first, but it makes perfect sense when you pick up the saw to use it. When you hold it like a pistol, the angle of the saw matches the angle of your arm, so you can comfortably hold the saw while attacking workpieces horizontally or vertically. And the motor placement makes a kick-ass spot to put your other hand to stabilize the saw when you need to hold it in place or add a little force.

Newer corded saws, like the ones our reader saw from Ridgid and Kobalt, as well as the Craftsman (and others, we suspect) mimic the shape of oscillating saws, like the Ridgid JobMax, for example. They feature a barrel-type grip, which results in a longer but narrower tool. These saws, by the way, seem to have popularized the “one-handed” label which caught our reader’s eye.

Bottom line: Though we haven’t tried out the Ridgid or Kobalt tools specifically, we can attest to the functionality of the smaller, differently-shaped, shorter-stroked recip. The concept is definitely sound. And though we love the pistol-grip form factor, you should choose the shape that’s most comfortable for you when performing the tasks you perform most often. (And we’ll look into trying out some of these newer models for TM as well.)

Saws mentioned here:
Hackzall M12 Cordless Recip Saw [Milwaukee]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

PS60 12v Max Pocket Recip Saw [Bosch]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?] 

R3030 One-Handed Fuego Recip Saw [Ridgid]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

Kobalt 4-Amp Keyless Variable Speed Corded Recip Saw [Lowe's]

Craftsman 4.0 Amp One-Handed Recip Saw [Sears]

One of the really cool upshots of the last few years’ more powerful and more compact drivers has been the renaissance of the impact driver. The small 10.8-12v models are incredibly powerful, able to drive screws bigger than the damn driver itself. And the 18v models, while still remarkably compact, can handle gargantuan driving [...]]]>

One of the really cool upshots of the last few years’ more powerful and more compact drivers has been the renaissance of the impact driver. The small 10.8-12v models are incredibly powerful, able to drive screws bigger than the damn driver itself. And the 18v models, while still remarkably compact, can handle gargantuan driving tasks. I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve succumbed to grabbing a tiny impact driver (the PS40, actually) to drive fairly large screws while fixing a fence, chucking up some non-impact-ready driver bits in the process. While it drove a few screws without problems, I chewed up a bit before I was done, thrashing the head and stripping a screw in the process.

So it’s no surprise that 1/4″ quick-change impact-ready bits are starting to get some R&D focus — and some cool upgrades. Irwin’s new line includes fastener drive bits, nutsetters, bit holders, and socket adapters, all with new features. Read on for the details.

The fastener bits would’ve likely helped me out with my fence problem. Irwin decided to forge rather than mill the bits, which they claim makes them fit more precisely. A better fit means less wear, and, more importantly, less stripping. Irwin also claims a 3x longer life than standard bits, which would make sense for an impact variant. In my experience, these bits fail most commonly at the tip, with the small, flat grips of Phillips drivers especially prone to deform or shear off completely. So hopefully the forged construction helps with this mode of failure. The line will include Phillips, square recess, Torx, and tamper-resistant Torx models.

The new line’s nutsetters are “lobular” — essentially designed with small radii around the corners of the bolt head recess, forcing the setter to grab the sides of the bolt rather than the corners. This isn’t new, but it’s not something I’ve seen commonly applied to small impact tools. The idea is that by grabbing the sides of the nut head, lobular drivers will help maintain the shape of the head under stress, rather than rounding off the corners easily. Irwin also claims the radii help the setter clear paint buildup.

In terms of the line’s socket adapters and bit holders, there doesn’t appear to be any magic new specs to increase durability, though many of the same design ideas carry through here as well. For example, Irwin points out that they’ve upped the strength of the bit holder’s magnets and included a retaining clip to hold attached bits in place more firmly. And the socket adapters are forged, too. The whole line features a black oxide finish for corrosion resistance.

Basically, what we’re seeing here are the same concepts and tricks manufacturers have applied to larger impact tools dribbling down into the 1/4″ quick-release range. We love it, and we can’t wait to see more of it. Pricing ranges from about a buck to around $10, with sets running up to the $40 range.

Impact Performance Series [Irwin]
Street Pricing [Google]
Irwin 33-Piece Impact Fastener Set [What’s This?]
Irwin 32-Piece Impact Fastener Set [What’s This?]

Some quick checking revealed that Chevy and Southern Pacific [...]]]>

As a general rule, we like to think we’re getting a great deal more creative when it comes to transport than we were 40 years ago. As it turns out…nope. These rail cars stowed 30 Vegas per car, nose down, in the early 70′s, ya’ll.

Some quick checking revealed that Chevy and Southern Pacific designed the entire rail car system dubbed “Vert-A-Pac,” which overnight almost doubled the previous best-loading method’s record of 18. Ramps were lowered by forklifts and the cars were backed off and delivered to waiting dealerships. If it weren’t for its ability to break down and leave a pile of rust in the driveway, the sporty good looks and the sweet rail transport system might have made this a more common sight.

Performance of the actual vehicle aside, it’s worth mentioning the engine was designed so the oil didn’t flow into the cylinders while they’re vertical, and the other fluids were designed not to leak into their various components, either. Looking back, it was pretty forward thinking, even if the car was discontinued after about seven years.

How Chevy Vegas were shipped (circa 1971) [Imgur]

The term “builders’ grade” is often slapped on a piece of hardware you’re almost sure wouldn’t pass muster any other way new, much less after 6 or 7 years. Apparently such a term was appropriate for the riser in my toilet, which split for no reason this weekend and flooded the bathroom. I returned from [...]]]>

The term “builders’ grade” is often slapped on a piece of hardware you’re almost sure wouldn’t pass muster any other way new, much less after 6 or 7 years. Apparently such a term was appropriate for the riser in my toilet, which split for no reason this weekend and flooded the bathroom. I returned from the home center with a Korky brand valve.

It wasn’t really more expensive than the cheap crap I was going to put back in it. It was mere nine dollars instead of the seven-dollar kit I was used to, but the difference was astounding. The first thing you might notice is there’s no ball float. The Korky 528 fill valve (pictured) is a twist-and-lock action anti-siphon valve that adjusts by rotating the head a quarter turn, moving it to the correct height, and rotating it back to lock it.

The whole thing installs in less than five minutes like any other riser valve, but the feature that’s worth the extra two dollars (and more, really) is that it fills quickly and almost silently. Korky says it will last longer as well, but the quiet flush is really worth it.

After hearing how quiet it was and how much easier it is to fit correctly, I’m switching the other can to this system even though there’s nothing wrong with it. For nine bucks, why not?

Korky Brand Toilet Tank Repair [Website]
Street Pricing [Google Shopping]

In a quest for better ergonomics, YouTube videographer pocket83 designed a simple and creative mod for the handles on his drill press by hollowing out a few golf balls. He removes the original plastic nubs on the rotating handle, drills out the rubber cores of a few Wilsons, and replaces them with [...]]]>

In a quest for better ergonomics, YouTube videographer pocket83 designed a simple and creative mod for the handles on his drill press by hollowing out a few golf balls. He removes the original plastic nubs on the rotating handle, drills out the rubber cores of a few Wilsons, and replaces them with threaded nuts to create larger handles with a smoother rotation.

I can’t help but wonder if there are common concerns people have with big shop tools, the way 1990s Grand Cherokees seem to usually have transmission problems, A/C failure, and a creaky driver door hinge (ours was a ’97 and I still miss it).

Are there known issues with your favorite tools, and if so, do you have simple modifications you recommend to keep them running smoothly?

Before you head out to get your lawn and landscape machinery humming again, check out the Consumer Product Safety Commission’s recent tool recalls (beginning January 1, 2013) to avoid unwanted burns, gas leaks, lacerations, and explosions.

Recall: Briggs & Stratton Ariens Compact Snow Throwers
The carburetor bowl nut on Ariens’ [...]]]>

Before you head out to get your lawn and landscape machinery humming again, check out the Consumer Product Safety Commission’s recent tool recalls (beginning January 1, 2013) to avoid unwanted burns, gas leaks, lacerations, and explosions.

Recall: Briggs & Stratton Ariens Compact Snow Throwers
The carburetor bowl nut on Ariens’ orange-and-black 24-inch Snow-Thro can allow gas to leak from the unit, causing a fire hazard. The model number is 920014 with serial numbers from 100,000 through 119,039. They were sold from August-September 2012 at Ariens and Home Depot locations nationwide.

Recall: Ryobi Lithium 18 V 4Ah Battery Pack
The cordless tool battery pack, model P108 and part number 130429028, can overheat and burst while on a charger, causing fire and burn hazards. They were sold at Home Depot in the U.S. and Canada from September-December 2012.

Recall: Homelite Electric Blower Vacuums
Objects drawn into the vacuum may break through the plastic housing, causing risk of laceration. The recall involves “two different model and serial number ranges, including model UT42120 with serial numbers BMP3540001 through BMR2103100, and model UT42120A with serial numbers BMR2120001 through BMR3421250.” They were sold at Home Depot stores and on homedepot.com from February-December 2012.

Recall: Expert Gardener Electric Blower Vacuums
Same issue as with the Homelite vacuums. The recall affects “two different model and serial number ranges, including model 20254EG with serial numbers BMP3010001 through BMR3311972, and model 20254EGC with serial numbers EUP3120001 through EUP3630730.” The blowers were sold at WalMart stores nationwide and at walmart.com from January-December 2012.

All of the recalls listed above have either zero or exactly one consumer incident reported that led to the recall — but it may still be worth the repair or item swap.

Have you ever sent a recalled item in or returned one for repair, or is it too much hassle for low-risk issues? Let us know in comments.

Who ever said that play can’t change the world? The Soccket ball, developed by two Harvard alumns, is a regulation-size soccer ball containing an inductive coil mechanism that captures and stores a small electrical charge. With a tiny flip cap that reveals an 1/8″ input, after less than 30 minutes of play, the Soccket [...]]]>

Who ever said that play can’t change the world? The Soccket ball, developed by two Harvard alumns, is a regulation-size soccer ball containing an inductive coil mechanism that captures and stores a small electrical charge. With a tiny flip cap that reveals an 1/8″ input, after less than 30 minutes of play, the Soccket will power an LED light for 3 hours, charge a battery, or operate other small devices, including an iPhone or portable CD player.

Think powering a small LED isn’t a big deal? According to the World Bank’s 2009 report, 65% of people in Africa and 25% of Latin America still have NO access to electricity. And since soccer is one of the world’s most popular sports — particularly in African and Latin America — the Soccket ball could be a meaningful source of electricity, especially to kids who often find ways to play even in harsh environments. So far 2,500 Soccket balls have been distributed through pilot programs for kids ages 7-12 in Tlaquepaque, Mexico; and in Chicago and Newark here in the states.

The Soccket’s outer measurements are identical to a regulation ball, and, tech pack included, it weighs only two ounces more. Made with a foam core and spongy foam fabric wrapped in vinyl, it can keep rolling after a puncture, unlike conventional soccer balls. The lead engineer for the team reports that the Soccket’s bounce is a little less than standard, but they’re working to improve it to match what players are used to.

With all the talk of li-ion batteries in Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner, it’s pretty cool to see some positive news about innovation in portable energy. The Soccket team has received funding from the Harvard Institute for Global Health, the
Clinton Global Initiative University, and its Kickstarter project online. According to yesterday’s Boston Globe,

Late last week, through a Kickstarter crowd-funding effort, [creators Jessica Matthews and Julia Silverman] were some $31,000 shy of their pledge goal of $75,000. If they can hit the number, they can increase production, spread Soccket to remote corners of the world, places such as Vietnam or Thailand or other parts of southeast Asia where connecting to an electrical source can mean maybe a five-hour journey on foot.

As Toolmongers, you probably have some creative ideas of your own about how a small, portable power source like this could be put to use. What would you do with it? (Remember, no breaking child labor laws.) Share your ideas in comments!

*Special thanks to the Republic of Everyone for the phased design photo, and to Inspiration Green for the close-up photo.

Soccket: The Power of Play [Web]
The Boston Globe: Harvard Women Building a Smarter Soccer Ball [Web]
Soccket’s Kickstarter page (the only place you can currently get a Soccket, for a $99 donation) [Web]

The best part about this Hitachi magnetic driver bit video is when the guy says “You’re not going to lose your screw” and the screw promptly falls off the bit and bounces off the table. That aside, while magnetic bits themselves aren’t new, there are a few worthy points of note with Hitachi’s new release.

The basic [...]]]>

The best part about this Hitachi magnetic driver bit video is when the guy says “You’re not going to lose your screw” and the screw promptly falls off the bit and bounces off the table. That aside, while magnetic bits themselves aren’t new, there are a few worthy points of note with Hitachi’s new release.

The basic setup: these new mag bits are available in Phillips #2, Square #2, and Star T25 and have a rare earth magnet tucked into the collar. If you’ve ever used a mag bit before you’d know that you can still lose the fastener off the end pretty quickly if you’re in a hurry. The up-gunned magnet removes most of the risk of losing the fastener. But it may work a little differently for pros who often stuck the bit in a pouch while still on the drill in order to grab one or two screws, as the new magnet would grab a bunch.

The biggest advantage to the Hitachi bits is they’re designed with drywall and decking in mind to not move if the drill they’re attached to is pivoted to any angle or shaken a little. Also, since it’s Hitachi, the bits will undoubtedly be pretty affordable and available in every home center you might find yourself in. Other than needing a better script for the video demo, we’d say they’ve covered the space pretty well.

How to use Hitachi’s Magnetic Driver Bits to make your job easier? [YouTube]
Magnetic Bits [Hitachi]

It’s pretty easy to think that modern tools and techniques are the only way to reduce a piece of stock to size. In fact, methods handed down since edged tools existed are still extremely effective. One perfect example is riving — taking a chunk of log and reducing it to the rough size and [...]]]>

It’s pretty easy to think that modern tools and techniques are the only way to reduce a piece of stock to size. In fact, methods handed down since edged tools existed are still extremely effective. One perfect example is riving — taking a chunk of log and reducing it to the rough size and shape for your project by using a stick and froe.

The most interesting part is how quick and straight the work turns out to be. If split from the end on with a straight blade (and I’m guessing a little practice), wood is very predictable in the way it separates. A recent program on frontier cabin building featured a pair of guys using the same method to build siding for a log cabin-style house. The resulting planking was remarkably even and straight for jumped-up timber. Though they needed some heavy wedges and a jig framework to hold the board, the process was exactly the same as the one in this video.

It’s a shade on the brutal side, and the result is far from a finished material — but you can indeed rough-cut lumber in the middle of nowhere with surprising accuracy.

Riving Boards [YouTube]

The cordless sander does have limitations that [...]]]>

It’s funny when you witness yourself becoming a supporter of the horse and buggy when you see an automobile go zipping by. When Makita sent us their LXOB01 18v cordless sander, I let it sit for a while because I “knew” it would be a dud. This was not the case.

The cordless sander does have limitations that a corded one doesn’t: it’s heavier, and the battery eventually runs down. What Makita rightly pointed out is that the drill also went through this process as well and seems to have come through stronger. In fact, more cordless drills are sold today than corded, and the palm sander has the advantage of better battery technology in third-gen Li-Ion packs. The press material claims anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes of sanding per battery charge, which we confirmed in our testing. It’s easy to quote figures, but in real project time, what does that 20 -40 mins mean? 

The three-speed selector may seem like a bit of downer if you’re used to a wheel that dials in whatever speed you want on a more traditional palm sander, but this wasn’t an issue with the Makita. We put it through several different projects, from a dresser rebuild to a set of 8′ x 8′ Hungarian shelves like the ones Chuck installed a while back, plus a few others in between. In almost every case, they performed admirably with virtually no difference between a corded unit vs. a cordless. 

The resulting complaints were very minor — more like niggles than real complaints. The first was the dust bag: it falls off. It doesn’t happen often and normally only when it’s full, but the resulting dust plume when it hits the ground is curse-inspiring. A simple catch or clip of any kind would solve the issue completely. The other issue is one of process, not function. The simple truth is: you will have to change batteries. In our case, under hard load (sanding nine 8′ boards top to bottom for the Hungarian shelves) we needed to change the batteries every 30 minutes or so. The four hours of sanding never left us without a sander as the other battery would indeed last that long. The sander did slow down noticeably before it stopped, which we took as a warning to change up. After a few weeks of operation, that really is the most we could find wrong with the thing.

There are many things just flat right with the LXOB01, too: slinging the battery center mass vertically works out great for balance. It takes standard 8-hole, 5-inch hook-and-loop paper discs, and it is nice not to have to bother with a cord. Plus the 18v power pack motor combo delivers enough grunt to get the job done.

Does it vibrate? Yes, of course — it’s a random orbit sander; they all do. However, it doesn’t shake you up more than any other machine of its type, and looking for better than that might just be wishful thinking.

But is the LXOB01 worth $300? That’s a tough question. If you’re already invested in the Makita 18v Li-Ion line, sure. It’s a no-brainer as the tool itself is only $105 without the pack, bag and charger. If you’re looking for an entry into the system it might be a little steep but no one thinks twice about shelling out extra cash for a Li-Ion cordless drill over a corded one, either. Regardless of my personal viewpoints at the outset, the LXOB01 does work as advertised for run time, function, and durability. It’s a solid tool currently ahead of its time compared to the rest of the market.

LXOB01 18V Random Orbit Sander [Makita]
Street Pricing [Google Shopping]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

The History Channel has been playing the damn Kobalt Double Drive mini-infomercial between breaks so much I would actually buy one if I thought it’d make them stop playing it. The funny part is, as much as I’d like to make fun of it, the twisty ratchet does look pretty cool. The basic premise is, [...]]]>

The History Channel has been playing the damn Kobalt Double Drive mini-infomercial between breaks so much I would actually buy one if I thought it’d make them stop playing it. The funny part is, as much as I’d like to make fun of it, the twisty ratchet does look pretty cool. The basic premise is, if you click it to double mode, a barrel twist each way will advance the head in the direction you’d like to go.

The Double Drive form factor isn’t funky or out of line with what a ratchet should look like, and it delivers more functionality than a standard ratchet. It reminds us a little of when the GearWrench pass-thru system first came out, but not nearly as groundbreaking. For around $20 it seems a decent investment to throw down for.

Does it replace a standard ratchet? Yes, it can: if you do a load of work with bolts, it’s great to have in the toolbox. If not, the Double Drive is cheap enough you can have it for a just-in-case situation. True, it sounds a little gimmicky, but at its core, even if you don’t use the double function, it’s still a working ratchet. So spending the same as you might spend on plain model isn’t really a loss.

Double Drive Kits [Lowe's]

The City Wheel is quite striking to look at. Part of the “Long Nights Big City Lights” exhibit produced by McNabb & Co., the wheel is sharp, vibrant to look at, and makes quite a statement even if you’re unsure of what it is. Look a little closer and it just gets more impressive. The wheel is [...]]]>

The City Wheel is quite striking to look at. Part of the “Long Nights Big City Lights” exhibit produced by McNabb & Co., the wheel is sharp, vibrant to look at, and makes quite a statement even if you’re unsure of what it is. Look a little closer and it just gets more impressive. The wheel is made from over 60 blocks that have been carved into buildings and put back in the ring one at a time to form what you see here.

Each building was done by hand, and no two are exactly the same much in the same way buildings themselves are not the same. It’s a badass marriage of art, craftsmanship, and calculated design that, when massed together, is praiseworthy on several different levels. Once the math of the wedges had been figured out and the design was set, you’ve still got dozens of building to carve up.

Sure, once you’ve seen how it’s done, you could make a go of it, but the sheer time involved is nothing short of staggering. The artist certainly took the long-game approach when doing the wheel and the other pieces for the show –simply amazing.

The making of the wheel [YouTube]
The City Series: Wheel [McNabb & Co.]

Rockwell is set to offer a 16V lithium-ion line, starting with a drill and an impact driver. Why should we care? Well, a few years back Bosch kickstarted the compact market with the PS20, reminding us that a) we don’t necessarily need to use the biggest possible drill for every job and b) small [...]]]>

Rockwell is set to offer a 16V lithium-ion line, starting with a drill and an impact driver. Why should we care? Well, a few years back Bosch kickstarted the compact market with the PS20, reminding us that a) we don’t necessarily need to use the biggest possible drill for every job and b) small doesn’t have to mean crappy. Then both Bosch and DeWalt took a page from the less-is-more book in their 18V lines, cutting back on the extra bulk to produce svelte, light, yet still quite powerful general-use pro-line drills. DeWalt has even filled in the gap between Bosch’s compact PS series and the new compact 18V tools — the 12V MAX line features more standard form factors than the PS tools (along with larger size), and, in some cases, a little more power.

Rockwell argues that their new 16V series fits in the tiny gap between 12V models — they claim their 16V offers more power — and 18V class tools, which Rockwell suggests are bulkier than their product. How will it hold up? Read on after the jump to find out.

Basic Features

As you can see in the photos, the Rockwell’s battery attaches via a shoe connector, much like the DeWalt 12V MAX line. The battery protrudes forward slightly, which should help to balance it a bit, and though the Rockwell’s battery doesn’t include a charge gauge, the tool does flash the integrated LED work light to indicate that the battery is nearly dead. We see lots of the now-industry-standard rubber molding that makes the grip more comfortable, and we spy a pretty large (though not necessarily deep) trigger as well. 

The Rockwell’s chuck is a keyless type with an auto spindle lock, which should make tightening a lot easier. (Seriously, every drill should have one of these now. I’m not sure I’d want to own one that doesn’t.) The information we received from Rockwell doesn’t specify the chuck material, but from the photos, it looks plastic to us. Note that this isn’t necessarily a bad thing; we see an all-metal chuck as more critical in high-torque/heavy-use drill/drivers, generally starting with 18V and up. Of course, as this driver is designed to straddle the line between 12V and 18V, the importance of chuck durability will vary based on whether you intend to use it as a light-duty 18V or a heavy-duty 12V.

Power

Rockwell claims that the 16V drill/driver delivers 302 in-lbs. of torque. Though they don’t specify the RPM at which they captured this reading, we might be able to infer a bit from the other specs, specifically that the 16V features a two-speed transmission, delivering 0-400 and 0-1,500 RPM (no load). The Bosch PS31, for example, claims 265 in-lbs. of torque with 0-350 and 0-1,300 RPM ranges. Assuming that the readings are taken somewhere in the low gear, we can guess that the torque measurement of the Bosch is taken at a lower RPM than the Rockwell, magnifying the Rockwell’s 37 in-lb. advantage. So unless someone fudged their numbers, we suspect the Rockwell delivers more torque than the Bosch PS31.

The tough part is comparing the Rockwell to the DeWalt DCD710S2, since a while back DeWalt adopted the possibly-more-accurate-but-damn-near-impossible-to-compare unit watts out (UWO) power spec. Worse, this is probably the most apt comparison as the Rockwell and the DeWalt seem very similar in shape. (The Bosch follows the more compact PS form factor.) So we’ll have to wait until we can get one of these in hand to give you a practical comparison of power.

Bulk

Bulk is even tougher to judge at this early stage since Rockwell didn’t provide size specs — and “bulk” doesn’t really correlate directly with size, anyway. At the simplest level, we figure “less bulky” should translate to a thinner, simpler tool — as well as one that weighs significantly less. Of course, the key factor in terms of size, shape, and weight will be what you’re going to do with it.

You might, for example, be way more concerned with the length of the drill’s barrel than its height if you were going to use it in certain tight spaces. A big concern here, too, will be how the Rockwell compares the the DeWalt 12V. The Rockwell appears questionably less bulky than DeWalt’s 18V offering, but not so much compared to the 12V.

Quality and Support

We know a lot of you have questions about the quality of Rockwell as the name has changed hands a number of times. We do, too. But we’re not prepared to jump on the “it changed hands so it has to be bad” boat. We want to see it, use it, and judge for ourselves. And we have high hopes. Rockwell currently belongs to Positec Group, which also produces Worx. Years back we came out as fans of Worx’ Revolver recip saw, and we continued to use it (and abuse it, honestly) around the shop for six years before we ran into our first issue. If this drill holds up similarly, that’s fine in our book. It’s worth noting, too, that Rockwell offers a battery replacement program similar to Ridgid’s in which they’ll replace your batteries for the life of the tool. Rockwell claims that represents a 40% to 70% reduction in ownership cost, and if you’re using the tool regularly, we’d say that’s not unreasonable.

Conclusions

We’re interested to see these in person. If they significantly outperform the DeWalt 12V offering — and aren’t too heavy, clunky, or otherwise hobbled by issues — this might represent the filling of another gap in the use case/performance continuum.

MSRP for the drill (RK2600K2) is $140, as is the impact driver (RK2611K2). You should see them on shelves starting late this month, and Rockwell has already secured distribution through Menards as well as other unspecified “regional hardware and home centers nationwide.” We’re sure you’ll see them online as well.

We’re always fascinated by how different folks store their tools. Some people love the purpose-made hard cases which come with a lot of hand tools, though we’ve seen a pretty solid shift toward preferring the soft case (or slightly-structured bag). Each has benefits: the hard cases offer more protection and can Tetris together into [...]]]>

We’re always fascinated by how different folks store their tools. Some people love the purpose-made hard cases which come with a lot of hand tools, though we’ve seen a pretty solid shift toward preferring the soft case (or slightly-structured bag). Each has benefits: the hard cases offer more protection and can Tetris together into squarish storage spaces better, while soft bags pack much tighter internally — but are messy to stack. It looks to us like Bosch is trying to cut the middle with their LBOXX system, which consists of hard cases of fixed width and depth that stack easily and lock together for ease of storage/carrying.

Of course, not all tools are the same size. Bosch solves this problem by offering pre-made hard inserts molded to fit various power tools. So to make use of the system, you’ll need LBOXXen and inserts configured for your specific tools.

The LBOXX comes in four height variants. Think of them like rack units. The LBOXX-1 is a “1U” case, the LBOXX-2 is twice as tall, the LBOXX-3 is three times as tall, and (you guessed it) the -4 is four times taller than the -1. All four versions offer top, front, and side handles, giving you three different ways to carry them — or many different ways to grab, pull, position, or carry the “brick” of multiple boxes latched together via integrated locking clips.

Pricing runs from $50 (the -1) to $60 (the -4), and ~$50 gets you the LBOXX-1A, which is a standard LBOXX-1 with a 13-piece insert set designed for holding small parts or components. The trick will be getting inserts for your tools. A little browsing on the Bosch site convinced us that Bosch’s plan is to sell tools in LBOXX kits (standard kits, but with an appropriately-sized LBOXX complete with inserts) and/or bare tools with insert. We didn’t see any option to buy inserts alone for tools you already own, though we might simply not have found them.

So, like always with storage systems, you’re going to have to evaluate how these will work for you. At worst, it looks like just buying Bosch tools will get you into the LBOXX systems via the new kits, which is an improvement over standard incompatible-with-each-other blow-mold cases. At best, they could offer a clean way to carry and store a group of power tools specific to the job at hand.

LBOXX Storage Solution [Bosch]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon  [What’s This?]

First off, thanks so much for all the thoughtful responses to my post last week about artificial frugality and tool hoarding. I started to reply to some of the comments specifically, but soon realized that there’s so much interesting information there that the subject really deserves a follow-up post to dig deeper into the [...]]]>

First off, thanks so much for all the thoughtful responses to my post last week about artificial frugality and tool hoarding. I started to reply to some of the comments specifically, but soon realized that there’s so much interesting information there that the subject really deserves a follow-up post to dig deeper into the areas of scrap storage, what tools to keep, and for how long.

Scrap Storage

I realize that I wasn’t extremely clear about the fact that I do indeed still have scrap storage. I have a pretty good stash of commonly-used wood (a sheet or two of 3/4″ and 1/2″ ply, four or five 2x4s, and some various smaller sizes of dimensional lumber) and metal (probably 30-40′ of 1″ square tubing, about half a sheet of expanded metal, about half a sheet of 12-gauge, and an assortment of short lengths of various-sized tubing, sheet, and plate). What I dumped was bins upon bins of short lengths of steel and wood that I judged was probably 20% or less likely to ever see use.

I come from the idea that you keep pretty much any scrap that’s possibly useable again, which is how I got where I was — with at least four large bins of steel and two or three of wood, all in a relatively small garage shop that also needs room to work, store cars and bikes, and not become a damned obstacle course every time I carry in groceries or go out for a ride. Now I have a wall rack full of wood and tube/sheet steel, a small bin of short-length steel, and a small bin of short-length wood. In my particular exchange, I’d say I got back a lot of usefulness in the shop for very little lost potential “free” material.

Tools to Keep

I’m a freakin’ tool fiend. I have a lot of tools. A lot lot. My attitude has always been that the more prepared I can possibly be, the better. As others have mentioned in comments on my original post, it’s easier to start a project when you can just stroll into the shop and get to work than when you have to consider investment (or re-investment) in tools and supplies.

That said, the crux of my argument on artificial frugality is that we often ignore the other side of that coin: the cost of keeping all the tools and materials we need to be prepared for those projects. Each side offers benefits (having the tools/materials makes it easy to get started, having a clean shop and an unjunked work/lifespace makes it easy to do projects and live your life) but each side also weighs you down (not having the tools/materials makes it harder to get started, having a ton of “stuff” limits your life options and prevents you from starting other potential projects).

The key is, in my opinion, to keep both sides in mind and strike a reasonable balance. This is, however, especially hard when it comes to tools.

For example, I have a 50-gallon air compressor in my garage. It’s awesome. Nicely switch-wired into 220V, it’ll drive air tools forever and pretty much do anything you’d ever want an air compressor to do. Also, it’s huge, loud, and massive overkill for airing up tires and blowing out dirt, which is what it ends up doing 90% of the time. It’s also probably worth at least a couple hundred bucks and would probably cost $500 to replace, should I find myself stuck in the other 10%. Of course, 99% of that 10% is stuff that I can do without it; it just makes those things easier. So, I’m giving up a good chunk of garage for what? As far as I can tell, my upside is that I’m prepared for the 10%, about .1% that I might actually need. This is a good candidate for sale.

On the other hand, I also have a Millermatic 250. I use it probably once every few months, and I seriously underutilize its potential. It’s probably worth a grand or more, and it takes a lot of space up in the garage as well. (It’s on a sweet cart that carries the bottle and everything.) But it belonged to my father, and I’m not in a hurry to get rid of it. I’ll give up that much space.

A harder one is my Smithy. For those of you unfamiliar, the Smithy is a non-BS lathe/mill/drill. Think ShopSmith for metal. Mine is in incredible shape and includes some very savvy modifications by the previous owner that makes it more accurate and easier to use. It takes up a ton of space, and I’ve used it probably once in the five years or so I’ve owned it. I got it because I had to sell my father’s Bridgeport mill and lathe (they barely even fit in the garage) and I really wanted to learn more about machine work. I’ve always been disappointed that my father and I never found the time to talk more about it before he died. (He was a great machinist.) So I picked up the Smithy as a learner tool.

But here’s the deal: I’m not a machinist, and I don’t honestly have time to become one (as much as I’d like to). I have businesses to run, work to do, Toolmonger posts to write, and a ton of other projects. I’ve been putting off the decision for a long time, but I’m going to sell the Smithy. It should really live with someone who will lovingly use it — instead of sitting in my garage. Crap, I have no idea how I’ll find a worthy home. Maybe I’ll list it here.

Anyway, hopefully this clears up my original point a bit. As always, I look forward to your thoughts, and I hope whatever decisions you make about what to keep, sell, rent, or buy work well for you and give you a good situation in which to live and make great stuff.