We have a ton of super cheap-ass plastic folding sawhorses around the Toolmonger shop, and we use the hell out of ‘em. They’re awesome because while they’re pretty limited in what they’ll hold, they don’t cost much so you don’t feel bad if you get paint all over them or accidentally break one from time to time. We also have a couple of Stanley’s FatMax Mobile Project Centers, which we like as well, though we’re a little more careful with those. That’s why these otherwise-pretty-blah sawhorses caught my eye: they’re cheaper than a project center, but they look significantly stronger than the all-plastic sawhorses we currently own.
Assuming Stanley’s load capacity ratings are accurate, these must be pretty sturdy, rated at a whopping 2,900 lbs. each. The legs themselves are aluminum while the top and bottoms of the horses are polypropylene. Grooves in the top assist you in holding lumber in place, and rubber inserts on the feet help stabilize the whole thing on hard surfaces. (My plastic sawhorses slide around like mad on my epoxy floor.) The legs adjust individually for height, too, so you can dial them in for stability on uneven surfaces.
While they’re cheaper than project centers, they’re not cheap. Expect to pay around $50-$60 each for these, depending on where you shop. That’s too much to own a bunch just for the hell of it, but I wouldn’t mind having two of ‘em kicking around for more serious work.
FatMax Sawhorse w/Adjustable Legs [Stanley]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]
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I’ve had a pair of these for a couple of years and consider them a good investment. I screwed an old desktop to a couple of 2x4s spaced to fit in those slots and used that as my primary bench while I built a real one. I’ve kept the arrangement around because it’s nice to set up quickly outside. They’re rock-solid and the height adjustment is nice.
These are very good horses. I’ve put plenty of use on them. They’re very strong and hold up well. Just watch your fingertips when you close them. There isn’t any relief along the edges of the legs so you can get a pinch depending on where you put your fingers and how you close the horses.
You ALWAYS see that in print and TV ads – a big ass piece of plywood or OSB to be cut sitting *UP* on sawhorses. Kinda dumb.
Indoors or out I put sacrificial 2 x 4s on the ground spaced a couple feet apart, parallel to each other and perpendicular to the cut line, then lay the plywood good side down on top of the 2 x 4s. With the circular saw blade set a fat 3/8 in. deeper than the thickness of the plywood, I kneel on the plywood sitting on the 2 x 4s and cut away.
Both the good piece and scrap cutoff are fully supported during the entire cut by the 2 x 4s. Nothing falls to the ground because it’s already on the ground, and fully supported. You don’t have to reach, the power cord doesn’t get caught up hanging down over an edge, and your weight on the plywood keeps both the plywood and 2 x 4s from sliding around.
Just don’t space the 2 x 4s too far apart so the plywood or OSB bows under your weight.
You end up cutting 3/8 in deep slots through the 2 x 4′s as you cross over them but so what. You have to cut A LOT of plywood until they’re more slotted than solid. Then you flip them over anyways and use the other fresh surface.
Works great for width, length and angle cuts, and plunge-cut cutouts. If you need to be super accurate, the 2 x 4s raise the plywood up enough to C clamp a straightedge next to your cut line. You can be as accurate as a big table saw that way.
thanks dom – im a beginner and i appreciate the tip
$34 at Lowes stores…