I received a couple of emails this week asking about the process of getting replacement keys for toolboxes. I’ve had a little experience with this on my own, but to offer a real answer, I headed to Google, then called around a bit among our TM contacts. Short answer: You’re pretty damn screwed. Read on for the longer version.
So the first time I lost a key to a toolbox, I figured the process would be pretty much like replacing a lawnmower key: there are probably only three or four of ‘em, so you can either get one from the local shop, or worst case, you could call the manufacturer and order one.
That’s partially true. Contacting your local dealer and then the manufacturer directly via numbers you find on their website or products should be the first stop in your journey. Larger manufacturers generally stock replacement keys, though generally not at the truck/dealer level, which means you’ll probably have to special order them. They’re not cheap, either, ranging from a few bucks to around $50 or more. To identify your specific key, most manufacturers will request a number from the outside of the toolbox. Since these numbers vary — and there are usually more than one on the box — you’ll need to ask the manufacturer which one specifically you need, then get it and call back.
You should probably know, though, that it’s been our experience that most manufacturers place this low on their priority list. Toolbox locks are generally considered ineffective as theft deterrents, especially in shops full of dozens to thousands of tools which can disable said locks in seconds. So we get the feeling that most manufacturers think you really shouldn’t lock your toolbox anyway. Indeed, a lot of advice we’ve seen in online forums (and among Toolmongers in email) seems to suggest the same: disable the lock early on to avoid having to damage your toolbox to get at the tools inside.
And that brings us to the final answer. If your manufacturer doesn’t sell (or doesn’t stock) your key (or can’t get it to you in a timely fashion), you’re going to have to disable and remove the lock. If you’re serious about not doing any damage, give your local locksmith a call. You might have to call around a bit — especially if you’re in a larger city — to weed out the I-just-open-locked-cars-for-cash chaff from the seriously-knows-their-stuff wheat. You’ll definitely need the latter, who’re generally the guys who’ve done lots of oddball (but more common than you’d think) jobs like opening file cabinets, desks, and so on. Generally speaking, most toolbox locks are remarkably similar to office supply locks, so these guys can likely do the job quickly and painlessly — though probably not inexpensively.
Finally, you can remove the lock yourself. You can drill it, or if you’re in a super big hurry and don’t care about the box (like if there’s a client standing there ready to pay you more than a toolbox worth of cash for an immediate job), you can punch the lock through. Be creative. You’re a tool guy, right? (Or at least a tools-not-in-the-locked-box guy.)
Did I miss some ideas? Let me (and all the other Toolmongers who’ve made this mistake, too) know in comments.
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27 Responses to So You Lost Your Toolbox Key: How Screwed Are You?
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Instead of having a locksmith disable the lock, see if they can just cut you a new key.
Years ago, I was astonished to discover that a cheap file cabinet lock had the key cutting code stamped on it (and the 3-digit number on the lock in the picture above is probably the same thing). I was able to walk into the locksmith, tell them the model of file cabinet and the number on the lock, and walked out 10 minutes later and $10 poorer with a key that worked perfectly.
If it’s a single sided key, it’s generally very easy to pick with two paper clips.
I just slipped a screwdriver in mine and popped it with a hammer. Felt so very stupid “locking” my tools up as the lid popped free with no damage with 2 seconds of effort.
Been there, done that. Fortunately, those toolbox locks are usually pretty cheap wafer-tumbler locks. Reading a quick tutorial on lockpicking will usually allow you to open one in a few seconds with a small screwdriver and bent paperclip. Once the lock is open, you should be able to remove it and take it to a locksmith to have a key made.
Pick a wafer lock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M24mZeziwqY
Open a File cabinet lock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9LXuCMQ980&feature=related
Impression a lock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-EFymCNlEU&feature=related
Not at all. I was the goto person for people who lost/forgot keys in our community college Heavy Equipment Repair program for the three years we were there. I even made a simple lock pick set out of hacksaw blades to rake the tumblers. Wafer locks are the easiest to pick, but the pin tumbler locks weren’t that much of a challenge either. The locks are there only to prevent casual walk-up theft. After all, in the real world, often it’s easier to just steal the whole box.
I used to open these types of locks on file cabinets with the nail file on my little pocket swiss army knife. A small screwdriver inserted and fiddled with for a few seconds is all it usually takes to open these locks; and why you should probably just leave it open as suggested in the article.
Almost all these locks are wafer tumbler types. If you can’t pick it, just drill it out – either way, if you really want a key for your box, most shops will charge you about 12 bucks to make the key or go to HD and buy a cabinet lock for about 6 dollars.
Just 10 secs with a drill bit and you are in. Done this many times on filing cabinets and drawers which use similar locks to cheap tool chests.
Drill hole – jam in flat screwdriver and turn – keep trying larger bits until it turns. (Too small of a bit will snap off when it grabs)
This is for gum ball machines, but it may work here:
http://www.gumballmachinesdirect.com/lockreplacement.html
It’s good to lock them to keep young kids from getting hurt messin’ with your tools.
If you have a snap on box that can be turned over it is easy to open. Turn it upside down and pull out the drawers.
You will have to reorganize your tools, but you will have an open box. We do this quite often at my high school, every auto collision student has a small snap on roll cab, key frequently turn up missing.
I can not confirm if this technique will work on other brands.
After the box has been opened a whole new lock should be a viable fix.
On the subject of tools box locks avoid snap on flank drive locks. They are advertised as heavy duty but WILL NOT stand up to the heavy duty service that they are advertised to.
The cheep lock found on tool boxes can also be defeated be a slide hammer like you see cops using on car locks-this works too.
If you put a screw in the lock cylinder a slide hammer can pull it out.
Drills and air chisels can be used with minimal damage to the box.
I was once reading an IBM computer manual, and was amused by the instructions for what to do when you lost the ‘keyboard lock’ (remember those?) key.
1. Insert another key in the lock.
2. Twist key with pliers until lock snaps.
3. Order new lock, part #xxxxxxxx
The “code” for the key is stamped right on the face of the lock. Any good locksmith should be able to cut the key.
I knew a guy who lost the key to his motorcycle. There’s a guy on eBay who will cut you a new key and send it to you. You just tell him “It’s a Yamaha, and the code is 1234″ and done. New key in the mail.
As it really is this easy, there’s not much point in damaging the lock to get it open. And if it were me, I would just pick it, as has been suggested. I made some tools for this from the stainless steel that reinforces wiper blade refills.
if he does that for a customer in california, he’d be violating penal code 466 and 467 that says he has to record and verify the identity of the requester against the registered owner. to do otherwise is a crime. i’m sure some other states have at least some such laws on the books
While tool box locks are pretty useless for security they are handy for making sure the box stays close in transit, even if said transit is just from one side of the shop to the other. I’ve been tempted a few times to just crazy glue my keys into the lock so I could use this latching feature without having to root around for my keys every time.
I keep my toolboxes locked to keep my young children and family members who need to borrow tools out of my tool boxes. I changed all of the lockes to one lock and keep a spare stuck to a magnet on the back of one of them. I have also picked locks for family members who have locked them selves out after purchasing a pick set featured on this blog about 18 months ago
I had a weird sense of deja vu while reading this. Now I remember why.
Just break the lock and go to sears for a replacement.
Does anybody have any ideas to secure one of these type of tool boxes ? I realize that they are just made out of sheetmetal, but still. For example-you have some guys coming over to fix something in the cellar (where you keep your tools). Or someone breaks into the house. Just something to slow them down or with the case of repairmen , they won’t rip apart the box or anything as obvious. For slowing down a thief – putting a chain or cable around the cart’s handle. Or placing it in such a way that it would be barricaded in the corner of the room. Any ideas ?
@Nick, heh, yep. He should’ve called me. I’d have told him what happened to mine. Which is still in use and doing fine… without a lock.
@Joe
On jobsites where we’ll be set up for a long stretch – we sometimes secure our Knaack boxes by bolting them to the floor – or chaining several together. Of course its not much use doing this if some other crew has left a cutting torch in easy reach
Thanks Fred.
For situations where you’re going to be at a site for a while, and can put your box in one spot:
Put a few holes in the bottom of your box, and lagbolt the box to the floor. The bolt heads are inaccessible if you’re box is locked.
Obviously this won’t stop a determined thief who’d be willing to break into a box—but it does keep the box from walking off by those trying for a quick n’ quiet swipe.
Try similar-sized keys before anything that will damage it. I’m always surprised at how many of my keys will open other things. Key to a buddy’s house opens the service closet in my apartment. Key to a fire-safe opens my USPS box. And so on.
if you want an alternative to a keyed lock they make a 3 digit combination lock for cabinet style locks call the combi-cam. they are fairly cheap and some models have the key and combo lock. its another option for the cheapo keyed lock.
http://www.combi-cam.com/
Locks are for honest people