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The 10″ Micro Kerf Blade is a carbide-tipped, 40-tooth blade meant for both rips and crosscuts. Total Saw Solutions claims the saw kerf is half that of a standard thin-kerf blade, as thin as the width of a dime. This is one finely machined blade — the plate is precision ground and tensioned so that runout is less that 1/2 the thickness of a human hair.

One of the many advantages of the narrower kerf is that it produces less waste and sawdust while leaving a smooth finish. The blade also runs quieter and uses less energy. There are always downsides: you can’t make as deep of a cut as a regular 10″ blade because of the stiffening plate, the thinner blade is easier to bend, and even though it can be sharpened 10 to 15 times, it’s too fragile to take it to your local shop to be sharpened.

Not only does Total Saw Solutions manufacture this blade in the USA, all materials including the steel for the blade and the packaging are purchased in the USA. The Micro Kerf Blade doesn’t come cheap; it’ll run you $175 at Rockler. Having the blade resharpened and “hammered flat” costs $20.

Micro Kerf Blade [Total Saw Solutions]
Micro Kerf Blade [Rockler]

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12 Responses to Micro Kerf Blade Pinches Dimes, Not Pennies

  1. fred says:

    We are big fans of thin kerf blades in our worksite saws and like the Forrest Woodworker II (old style) as an all purpose blade – but use Freud special purpose (rip, melamine and plywood blades too.) We have now – mostly Bosch job-site saws equipped with riving knives. While the riving knife is an excellent safety enhancement – it limits how thin a kerf blade you can use. I can tell you that this blade would not work with the Bosch riving knife.

  2. fred says:

    Forgot to mention that we use Freud blade stabilzers with out thin kerf blades. We find that one – placed outboard is enough to improve the cut – so you cover 2 saws with one set.

  3. John says:

    Is there any advantage to this 10″ blade over something just as thin in a smaller size? Whenever I see one of those blade stiffener setups, I wonder why folks don’t just buy the much cheaper small blades.

  4. Eric Renkiewicz says:

    I’ve put a freud 24t 7 1/4″ blade in our work table saw. you do lose some blade height but you can still rip a 2×4. I wouldn’t use it for cabinets until i was sure about the cut. i would like to see how a 40 or 60 tooth would cut.

  5. fred says:

    @Eric

    This is a complicated issue. Blade size, tooth geometry, motor power, feed rate, blade speed, arbor mass, blade height and blade condition (sharpness and cleanliness) and the material being cut can all contribute to the quality and safety of the cut. Smaller diameter blades and/or lower blade height put more teeth (for the same # of teeth per blade) in contact with the workpiece. In some instances this may promote binding, burning and possibly more propensity for kickback. While low blade height means that there is less of the teeth exposed above the workpiece – and some would say this means that a cut to your hadns from a misoperation will not be as deep – it may also mean that chips are not as effectively cleared or that kickback from an underpowered saw would be a greater possibility. On our Shop Fox sliding table saw – we mount a 14 inch Amana blade – raise it up quite a bit – but cut 3/4 inch sheet goods. We’ve found that with a shrap scoring blade and a raised main blade – we get the smoothest cut.

    Here is a link that you may find interesting:

    http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Articles/Tablesaw/tablesaw.htm

  6. shopmonger says:

    Blades are not only a complicated engineering consideration, and now there is the personal preferences. Thin curf can be good for speed, but it can also involve deflection which can be hard to account for in ripping applications.

    ShopMonger

  7. fred thanks for the link. There’s a bunch of good info on the site.

    For instance I’ve always heard conflicting advice about how high the blades should be when cutting: from the teeth barely poking through the cut — to the gullets (valley between the teeth) being above the cut — to crank ‘er all the way up.

    I’ve always followed the rule of at least having the gullets above the cut plus a little more, but after reading that link maybe I should be raising the blade a bit higher.

  8. fred says:

    @Shopmonger

    You are absolutely right about defelction in ripping – which can become an even bigger kickback problem if the fence is misalligned with the blade, or if the arbor has some issues. Given the nature of “solid” wood – stresses in the material can also show up during cutting (especially ripping) leading to twisting, binding and kickback.

    In the shop we do most of our glueline ripping on a dedicated Oliver machine with more than enough muscle (3PH – 15HP motor) to handle a big full kerf blade – and the tractor chain eliminates much of the hazard associated with stock feeding. But with our jobsite saws – we use a Freud thin kerf rip blade with a stiffener plate.

  9. ShopMonger says:

    Fred, have out ever run into height problems with the stiffener plates? They do limit the cut height just a bit. I have an underpowered table saw and i use full kerf but i do have a thin kerf on hand for really tall cross cuts…

    ShopMonger

  10. fred says:

    @shopmonger

    Sure!
    In the shop – the Oliver Straight-line Rip saw can gang cut sheet goods up to about 4 inches – as it uses a 14 inch blade – our Shop Fox sliding table saw also handles a 14 inch blade. We also resort to a resaw blade (1 or 1-1/4 inch) on a bandsaw for really tall cuts
    As you say its the 10 inch saw that can run out of height. The job site saws (we now have mostly Bosch – but also 1 Makita) are the issue – since they are underpowered compared to the shop saws. Also some stiffeners may be a bit larger (diameter) than others. The Freud one that we use seems to improve the cut – with some loss of blade depth – but not enough to affect most of the trim we use it for on most jobs. If we have a big contract – that requires lots of difficult on-site cutting – we will bring one of our Unisaws to the job site – and maybe a bandsaw too.

  11. Wayne Hall says:

    This has to be the worst blade I have ever wasted money on. This blade had a hard time ripping red oak from day one . I cut approximately 200 lin ft and the blade warped and started to wobble in the cut . Dont waste your money on this product.

  12. Don Angelo says:

    Hello Wayne,
    I am sorry to hear that you were so unhappy with the Micro-Kerf 40 saw blade.
    Since I am the manufacture of this saw blade I take a personal interest in making all of my customers happy. I have no idea when you purchased this blade but when we first introduced this blade several years ago we received calls from people having problems like you are saying. It wasn’t long and we discovered that most Table Saw machines that are currently out there are out of alignment which causes the Micro-Kerf 40 to have some cutting issues. We resolved this problem by creating a how to video on proper aligning your table saw without buying expensive alignment tools. You can find this video on our web site http://www.totalsawsolutions.com

    All of our saw blades now come with this DVD video enclosed at no extra charge.

    One thing we have noticed in business of today is the lack of service to their customers.

    We feel all of our customers are an extension of our business and they are part of our sales team. We continue to get new customers from our existing customers because of our quality and service. This is one reason we have a 1-800 number. I always ask myself how I would want my service to look like if I purchased something from another company. So Wayne, give me a call for I can help you with your problem the phone call is on me.

    Kind regards,

    Don Angelo – President
    Total Saw Solutions Inc.
    1-800-773-3133

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