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	<title>Comments on: Alvin Draftmatics</title>
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	<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/</link>
	<description>All tools. All the time.  Your source for news, information, and reviews of hand tools, power tools, and tools of all kinds.</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:59:21 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Benjamen Johnson</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1005431</link>
		<dc:creator>Benjamen Johnson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2009 20:43:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1005431</guid>
		<description>I like to use mechanical pencils in the shop, but you have to know their limitations like they don't work well for soft/rough stock, but seem to be fine for oak, other hardwood trim plastics and paper -- I'm always jotting things down, sketching and doing calculations, using a carpenter's pencil for that drives me crazy.  

I still keep other pencils around for when the mechanical one doesn't work well, but I like having a nice fine point.  I personally like the Zebra M-301 -- cheap and I like the grip.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like to use mechanical pencils in the shop, but you have to know their limitations like they don&#8217;t work well for soft/rough stock, but seem to be fine for oak, other hardwood trim plastics and paper &#8212; I&#8217;m always jotting things down, sketching and doing calculations, using a carpenter&#8217;s pencil for that drives me crazy.  </p>
<p>I still keep other pencils around for when the mechanical one doesn&#8217;t work well, but I like having a nice fine point.  I personally like the Zebra M-301 &#8212; cheap and I like the grip.</p>
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		<title>By: Mrten</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1005386</link>
		<dc:creator>Mrten</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2009 20:02:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1005386</guid>
		<description>These fixed-width pencils are great for woodworking (and all kinds of home improvement), no need to ever sharpen your pencil, just push the button. That being said, you should really go for the cheap plastic versions that retail for $0.60 or less (Bic matic is one), then you needn't worry about the refills either.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These fixed-width pencils are great for woodworking (and all kinds of home improvement), no need to ever sharpen your pencil, just push the button. That being said, you should really go for the cheap plastic versions that retail for $0.60 or less (Bic matic is one), then you needn&#8217;t worry about the refills either.</p>
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		<title>By: johnnyp</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1005102</link>
		<dc:creator>johnnyp</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:05:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1005102</guid>
		<description>I own about 20 of these style pencils and haven't used them in about 20 yrs. They are sitting in a brief case along with templates, lettering guides and various other
outdated drafting tools. If I remember correctly these pencils were not even used for  formal drawings they were relegated to note taking ,calcs &#38; basic layout w/blue lead(blue is not reproducible on an old ammonia copier) on mylar  and finished in ink No two pencil and a fine small file is the way to go when working with wood just dont get any filings on your work</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I own about 20 of these style pencils and haven&#8217;t used them in about 20 yrs. They are sitting in a brief case along with templates, lettering guides and various other<br />
outdated drafting tools. If I remember correctly these pencils were not even used for  formal drawings they were relegated to note taking ,calcs &amp; basic layout w/blue lead(blue is not reproducible on an old ammonia copier) on mylar  and finished in ink No two pencil and a fine small file is the way to go when working with wood just dont get any filings on your work</p>
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		<title>By: heywood</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1004668</link>
		<dc:creator>heywood</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:27:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1004668</guid>
		<description>I have a couple of these in .7 mm thickness. They are great, but I also almost never work with wood at work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a couple of these in .7 mm thickness. They are great, but I also almost never work with wood at work.</p>
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		<title>By: eric</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1004548</link>
		<dc:creator>eric</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 20:31:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1004548</guid>
		<description>I would stay away from mechanical pencils that have the thin metal tube at the end, especially if it doesn't retract with the lead, once it's bent the pencil is useless. Personally I like these in the shop, http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Sumo_Grip_9mm_Pencil_Clear.html</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would stay away from mechanical pencils that have the thin metal tube at the end, especially if it doesn&#8217;t retract with the lead, once it&#8217;s bent the pencil is useless. Personally I like these in the shop, <a href="http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Sumo_Grip_9mm_Pencil_Clear.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.reuels.com/reuels/Sumo_Grip_9mm_Pencil_Clear.html</a></p>
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		<title>By: Cybergibbons</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1004521</link>
		<dc:creator>Cybergibbons</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:48:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1004521</guid>
		<description>Useless for wood, I agree. I used to carry a very similar mechanical pencil for writing in my notebook when I worked on ships. I'd always find that ball points stopped working with oil and sweat, yet a mechanical pencil always worked. I also can't do maths when I use a pen...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Useless for wood, I agree. I used to carry a very similar mechanical pencil for writing in my notebook when I worked on ships. I&#8217;d always find that ball points stopped working with oil and sweat, yet a mechanical pencil always worked. I also can&#8217;t do maths when I use a pen&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: jeffrey immer</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2009/07/22/alvin-draftmatics/#comment-1004466</link>
		<dc:creator>jeffrey immer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 18:20:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/?p=28019#comment-1004466</guid>
		<description>for starters mechanical pencils are horrible for marking wood, unless it like ac plywood, plus drafting pencils in my experience are horribly uncomfortable to write with unless you use proper drafting techinque, i did hand drafting for 8 years</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>for starters mechanical pencils are horrible for marking wood, unless it like ac plywood, plus drafting pencils in my experience are horribly uncomfortable to write with unless you use proper drafting techinque, i did hand drafting for 8 years</p>
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