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If you want to stop machine noise from leaving your shop or prevent noise from entering your media room or bedroom, these simple and relatively inexpensive Isomax clips will help attenuate unwanted sounds, without taking up a lot of space.

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You can install ‘em on bare studs or over existing drywall on walls and ceilings. The clips attach to studs to isolate the resilient (furring) channel from the existing wall.  You can add insulation between the furring strips before attaching one or two more layers of drywall to them.

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The thick metal construction of the clips also prevents you from accidentally screwing the furring channel right into the stud, which could compromise the noise isolation.

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You can purchase the Isomax clips for about $5 apiece at Residtronics, but there’s a $150 minimum order.

Isomax [Kinetics Noise Control]
Isomax [Residtronics]

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11 Responses to Isomax Clips Help Soundproof A Room

  1. Jim German says:

    “relatively inexpensive”?? For a 20′x20′ room you’re talking about $700 worth of clips. Add in the double layers of drywall, insulation, and green glue, and sound proofing isn’t cheap.

  2. Patrick Austin says:

    Is that resilient channel? The stuff I used was only attached on one side, which lets it be springy and sag down from the ceiling a bit I’ve seen that stuff advertised as hat channel in the past.

  3. @Jim German:

    I didn’t say inexpensive, I said “relatively inexpensive.” Have you looked at the price of other sound proofing solutions? This is “relatively inexpensive” in comparison.

    You can buy sound isolating foam for $9 a square foot. That’s approximately $6000 for your 20×20 room and you still have to pay for the drywall…

  4. Jason says:

    If you’re serious about soundproofing, that’s actually not bad of a price. I recently redid my studio and the cost to double insulate the walls, double sheetrock (different thicknesses to avoid sympathetic vibrations), and put in a new floor was about five grand. I decided not to go the isomax route, but every little bit helps.

  5. metis says:

    why not just do a staggered double stud wall? it seems like a lot less hassle and… what 60 extra studs? even if you float the ceiling and floor you’re still at less than 700$, and have a much higher iso.

  6. metis says:

    jason: does 5 grand include labor?

    of note, stepped wallboard will help but more so will non-parallel walls that are tapered.

  7. kif says:

    Media room? I can’t even get peace in the bathroom. I have a wife and kids. My only hope for soundproofing is punctured eardrums.

  8. Bob The Drywall Guy says:

    I loves me my resilent channel. and these clips are for furring channel, I think I rambled about this in some other thread. What’s with all the interior finishing posts today day? is CGC’s Dust Control joint compound up for tomorrow?

    If you’ve got a real hankering for soundproofing, and don’t mind shelling out the cash, then QuietRock simply can’t be beat.

    http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietrock.html

    I’ve used the furring channel clips, and I’ve used resilient channel, and all manners of batt and foam board insulation, Spray insulation is beyond excessive for sound attenuation, btw.

    Ultimately, the QuietRock is good stuff. I’ve only ever installed 4 sheets of it ($40 a sheet, at a promo) but the wall is only 4 5/8″ thick, with Roxul R12, and nothing gets past it, except for the subwoofer, shaking the hell out of the house.

    As it is, combine Roxul insulation, either these clips and furring channel, or resilient channel , and if you’re really hardcore, 5/8ths drywall. this will prevent most sound travel out of the room. except for the door, which is a whole other problem.

    Also, if you can, AVOID Dietrich metal products. I find them to be inferior, made of weaker alloys and more difficult to work with, not to mention usually slightly smaller then superior brands like Bailey.

  9. I found your blog on google and read a few of your other posts. I just added you to my Google News Reader. Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.

  10. bob says:

    I agree with metis. I have staggered studs on 2/6 plates, and also built double walled media rooms (better and easier). Fiberglass between the walls. actual double walls are better because there is no conduction through the top and bottom plates. It is easier to place the bats between t 2 walls than to serpentine them through a staggered stud wall.

  11. John says:

    I have a lot of something similar to this from a soundproofing company in the UK.

    It’s not fixed with those rubber things though, it’s more like a bent strip of metal. The edge gets nailed / screwed, then the main width is sprung out (kinked) for the board to fix to.

    Personally, I’m a bit skeptical as to how solid the result wall would be due to flex, but I have used wool with rubber layers in it for soundproofing a 100W marshall amp and had REALLY impressive results.

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