Comments on: Reader Question: Ceiling Choice

By: BJN

BJN — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 18:42:07 +0000

Metal furring channel. I used it in my old house to entomb some cottage cheese asbestos texture over cracked plaster and lathe:

http://www.phillipsmfg.com/products/mcif/index.htm

By: Jerry

Jerry — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 03:15:51 +0000

I like to use insulated panels, with a foil side. Screw them into the joists with the foil down and you get a much brighter room. Not something that I would do upstairs, but for my basement it was perfect.

By: MaxW

MaxW — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 02:39:38 +0000

I’ll second the ceilingmax method. The tiles are close to the joists so height loss is minimal. For me, the #1 issue was room brightness - I hate a dark workshop and this really lightened up the place. Its a bit more expensive than drywall, but easy enough to remove. The only downside is that, if the joists are uneven, you can’t adjust the tiles to a uniform height. But that’s not very important for a workshop.

By: jim

jim — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 02:15:13 +0000

I like things bare too! Huge storage space available up there (favorite is to cut strips of scrap plywood ~8″ wide and screw them lengthwise along the joists (only contacting one joist, not bridging them). That gives ~ a 3″ shelf on each side - perfect for little cans & yogurt tubs of parts, nails, finish, etc. They aren’t deep, so stuff doesn’t get lost. It also makes it easy to put up a quick screw or nail to temporarily hang a project you are working on (rows of shelves getting poly’ed, etc.). I also have used spring boards wedged between the ceiling and a workpiece on a table as clamps - hard to do with a finished ceiling.

Finally color: I agree black looks slick and makes things blend in, but white really brightens the whole work room - easier to see with less power.

By: C. Nerd

C. Nerd — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 01:18:18 +0000

What is ‘resiliant channel?’

By: Bob The Drywall Guy

Bob The Drywall Guy — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 00:14:50 +0000

McAngryPants, if you’re willing to lose a inch of ceiling I would install resilient channel on the joists and fasten the drywall to that. It is used for sound proofing, but it’s design also works really well for flattening out ceilings.

To the OP, If its going to be a serious workshop, then I would keep it bare, there are a lot of good reasons listed above. If you’re commited to finishing it, not like I’m partial or anything… but drywall is a fair bit more attractive…

By: McAngryPants

McAngryPants — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 23:04:15 +0000

I have an older (1913) house and am planning on drywalling most of the basement but I’m kinda stuck on how to handle any inconsistencies in the joist height. Or should I just put up 1/2″ and then blow mighty texture on it?

By: Michael W.

Michael W. — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 21:44:53 +0000

The major problem with ceiling tiles in a workshop is dust, they’re like magnets to the stuff. Drywall is a little better and is easier to clean. 1/4″ - 3/8″ plywood Panels that have been polyurethaned are a nice alternative (and easily removed for service issues).

By: Tom

Tom — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 20:23:03 +0000

The best of both worlds is a product called Ceilingmax. The plastic supports screw directly to the joists but still allows suspended ceiling tiles to be used. You loose only a little over an inche of ceiling height - just a little more than drywall.

By: chad

chad — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 20:00:20 +0000

You could use ceiling tiles flush against the joists held up by 1×2 or 1×4 pine strips. Run the long perpendicular to the joists.

Would give access to the wiring/ plumbing, not require mudding and offer slightly better sound insulation over drywall.

By: russ

russ — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 19:41:12 +0000

Like some the others have said, keep them bare. You can use the space to store wood, etc. Over time the wife may think it is better for you have a woodshop out back. It’s worth a try anyway.

By: Kurt Schwind

Kurt Schwind — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:57:58 +0000

I’m with Wayne. Unless you have other reasons, I’d go with the CHEAPEST solution. Bare. Ceilings just get in the way. I know that I wish I had bare ceilings instead of the plaster I currently have.

By: fred

fred — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:37:56 +0000

Drywall - with fiberglass insulation for sound attenuation.
Keep the insulation clear of the water piping and you should be OK

By: Tom C

Tom C — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:36:16 +0000

Clearance is a big deal in many basements. I have seen ones where everything was sprayed black. It looked really nice all the pipes and everything blended in and the ceiling just sort of disappeared.

By: Justin R.

Justin R. — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:35:20 +0000

I agree with Jim. I am boxing out critical areas and will screw or hinge plywood access doors in those spots. Takes longer than just throwing up drywall and I assume that fitting shapes over my head will be a pain, but I like the compromise.

By: Jim M

Jim M — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:29:49 +0000

Why not go for the cheapest solution - drywall - and incorporate access panels at critical points, such as valves, junction boxes, etc.
jim

By: Wayne D.

Wayne D. — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:24:29 +0000

Personally, I would keep the ceilings bare, but I like to store things between the joists.

By: Chris Farley

Chris Farley — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:06:47 +0000

I’ve done both ways - take pictures of everything so you know where the wires and pipes are and go with dry-wall. Faster, easier, cheaper, better for dust, better for noise and not that difficult to cut and patch if you need access - especially with the pictures.

By: Bart'sDad

Bart'sDad — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:01:07 +0000

Noise and dust also come into play. Drywall does a better job keeping sawdust out of places it shouldn’t be. I believe a suspended ceiling can do a better job of isolating noise from the rest of the house. Let the debates begin.