Comments on: Budget Shop Truck Build, Part 2: Pulling The Engine http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/ All tools. All the time. Your source for news, information, and reviews of hand tools, power tools, and tools of all kinds. Sun, 08 Nov 2009 10:45:47 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.1 By: DCJS http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-985658 DCJS Tue, 07 Jul 2009 03:21:52 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-985658 I happen to be working on the same rebuild. Using a cherry picker and an oak tree; I just lifted the entire body off the frame. With no help from anyone. So why remove the body; We are restoring the vehicle right, and restoring something to me means to make new again. So what about those 18 years of Texas roads. I happen to be working on the same rebuild. Using a cherry picker and an oak tree; I just lifted the entire body off the frame. With no help from anyone. So why remove the body; We are restoring the vehicle right, and restoring something to me means to make new again. So what about those 18 years of Texas roads.

]]> By: SharkyTM http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-688885 SharkyTM Tue, 02 Dec 2008 22:15:05 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-688885 You could have tried an old trick that I've used for every motor swap I've done. Drop the motor and tranny as one, then use a good jack to lift the truck up over the engine/tranny. It requires a lot of overhead clearance, but its pretty darn easy. We usually drop the engine/tranny onto a piece of plywood on some furniture dollies. Then, once the truck it lifted up, we roll everything out from under it. Installation is reverse of removal, as Mr. Bentley is fond of saying. You could have tried an old trick that I’ve used for every motor swap I’ve done. Drop the motor and tranny as one, then use a good jack to lift the truck up over the engine/tranny. It requires a lot of overhead clearance, but its pretty darn easy. We usually drop the engine/tranny onto a piece of plywood on some furniture dollies. Then, once the truck it lifted up, we roll everything out from under it. Installation is reverse of removal, as Mr. Bentley is fond of saying.

]]> By: AggieMike http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-653373 AggieMike Sun, 09 Nov 2008 20:38:37 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-653373 I'm not sure if ya'll have managed to pull that power steering pulley or not now, but if you aren't going to re-use it, why not drill and tap some holes in it and use a steering wheel puller on it. My buddy and i did this on stubborn pulley once and it worked like a charm. I’m not sure if ya’ll have managed to pull that power steering pulley or not now, but if you aren’t going to re-use it, why not drill and tap some holes in it and use a steering wheel puller on it. My buddy and i did this on stubborn pulley once and it worked like a charm.

]]> By: Bill http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-589182 Bill Tue, 30 Sep 2008 18:03:51 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-589182 Sometimes you can drop the transmission crossmember, lower the rear of the transmission a bit and then reach the top bellhousing bolts from above the transmission (while laying underneath the truck). Put the transmission back up, replace the crossmember, then support the front of the transmission with a floor jack as described. I just rebuilt a 2.2L four in a GMC Sonoma (S-10 sibling) and there is literally no room between the firewall and the top bellhousing bolts. I would up removing the head first, then the engine mounts and then lowering the engine to the crossmember to remove the top bolts. Fun! I usually cut a 2x4 to span the frame rails, and use a couple of carriage bolts through the wood to the transmission bellhousing to support the transmission while the engine is out. That way, you can move the truck without tying up the floor jack. Sometimes you can drop the transmission crossmember, lower the rear of the transmission a bit and then reach the top bellhousing bolts from above the transmission (while laying underneath the truck). Put the transmission back up, replace the crossmember, then support the front of the transmission with a floor jack as described.

I just rebuilt a 2.2L four in a GMC Sonoma (S-10 sibling) and there is literally no room between the firewall and the top bellhousing bolts. I would up removing the head first, then the engine mounts and then lowering the engine to the crossmember to remove the top bolts. Fun!

I usually cut a 2×4 to span the frame rails, and use a couple of carriage bolts through the wood to the transmission bellhousing to support the transmission while the engine is out. That way, you can move the truck without tying up the floor jack.

]]> By: bobk http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-503066 bobk Wed, 03 Sep 2008 23:06:19 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-503066 I would have to agree with PeterP. It has been a while (a decade?) since I pulled an engine, and perhaps we always did it wrong, but - assuming that we planned to work on both engine and transmission - we (my brothers, father, and I) always pulled both engine and transmission together. The only times that we didn't was if there just wasn't any other way. Usually, by removing the transmission crossmember (if there, if necessary, if possible), removing the radiator, and (again if there, if necessary, if possible), the top radiator crossmember support, and sometimes the grille, it was not only possible but preferable. Re: FredB's comments, he jogged a memory that I have spent years always trying to forget. The only job that where we had had no option but to manuever the engine / transmission out and back in from the bottom was the 1963 (1964?) Ford Econoline van that we rebuilt for our church when I was just a teenager getting my feet wet, helping Dad. Gawd, was that an awful experience. bobk I would have to agree with PeterP.

It has been a while (a decade?) since I pulled an engine, and perhaps we always did it wrong, but - assuming that we planned to work on both engine and transmission - we (my brothers, father, and I) always pulled both engine and transmission together. The only times that we didn’t was if there just wasn’t any other way. Usually, by removing the transmission crossmember (if there, if necessary, if possible), removing the radiator, and (again if there, if necessary, if possible), the top radiator crossmember support, and sometimes the grille, it was not only possible but preferable.

Re: FredB’s comments, he jogged a memory that I have spent years always trying to forget. The only job that where we had had no option but to manuever the engine / transmission out and back in from the bottom was the 1963 (1964?) Ford Econoline van that we rebuilt for our church when I was just a teenager getting my feet wet, helping Dad. Gawd, was that an awful experience.

bobk

]]> By: Old Donn http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-467747 Old Donn Sun, 24 Aug 2008 22:32:28 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-467747 Not to dis your Stanley tool buds, but if they didn't bring any, you need to slide down to the nearest Sears and get a set of ratcheting combos to deal with those carpal tunnel inducing trans bolts. Not to dis your Stanley tool buds, but if they didn’t bring any, you need to slide down to the nearest Sears and get a set of ratcheting combos to deal with those carpal tunnel inducing trans bolts.

]]> By: Scott http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-456641 Scott Fri, 22 Aug 2008 00:45:27 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-456641 Unless you could not get under the truck near the tailhousing of the transmission (where the drive shaft yoke inserts), perhaps because the dog had already claimed that spot, it is far easier to remove the bell housing bolts from back there. You might want to raise the truck a bit, but probably not more than a foot. A long extension and a universal socket always beats an open-end wrench and no room to swing the wrench. The upper bolts are sometimes easier to see and remove if the transmission mount is loosened or even disconnected, which allows the whole assembly to pivot back a bit. Just tighten the mount back up once the bolts are out of the bell housing so the trans' stays put. Unless you could not get under the truck near the tailhousing of the transmission (where the drive shaft yoke inserts), perhaps because the dog had already claimed that spot, it is far easier to remove the bell housing bolts from back there. You might want to raise the truck a bit, but probably not more than a foot.

A long extension and a universal socket always beats an open-end wrench and no room to swing the wrench. The upper bolts are sometimes easier to see and remove if the transmission mount is loosened or even disconnected, which allows the whole assembly to pivot back a bit. Just tighten the mount back up once the bolts are out of the bell housing so the trans’ stays put.

]]> By: Sean O'Hara http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-455902 Sean O'Hara Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:53:42 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-455902 As Fred pointed out, length is an issue. Also, it was alot easier to come back and drop a rolling jack under the tranny and disconnect the drive shaft. It rolls out from under the truck pretty quick that way. Which we wound up doing later. As Fred pointed out, length is an issue. Also, it was alot easier to come back and drop a rolling jack under the tranny and disconnect the drive shaft. It rolls out from under the truck pretty quick that way. Which we wound up doing later.

]]> By: FredB http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-455885 FredB Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:47:59 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-455885 Hmmm. My memory of these things is that the engine and transmission and heck, the whole drive train go in from the bottom on the assembly line. In the shop, it's not going to all pull through topside. Hmmm. My memory of these things is that the engine and transmission and heck, the whole drive train go in from the bottom on the assembly line. In the shop, it’s not going to all pull through topside.

]]> By: PeterP http://toolmonger.com/2008/08/21/budget-shop-truck-build-part-2-pulling-the-engine/#comment-455807 PeterP Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:22:39 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/?p=11448#comment-455807 Perhaps a stupid question, but why not just pull the motor and transmission together? Seem's like you will probably need to do some work to it anyway... Perhaps a stupid question, but why not just pull the motor and transmission together? Seem’s like you will probably need to do some work to it anyway…

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