Budget Shop Truck Build, Part 2: Pulling The Engine
By Sean O'HaraConclusions
We ran into some trouble here and there, but we were able to solve almost everything with basic mechanics tools that you could find most anywhere. We did cheat and use one big-ticket item — the engine lift — but if you don’t have one, you can ask around and it’s likely someone’ll let you borrow one. You could also do the entire rebuild with the block in the car, but we have other plans for the motor and the inside of the engine bay, so ours had to come out.
Pulling the engine proved to be a full day’s work, but we got it out without permanent damage to ourselves or any tools. The hard part was finding the right combo of tools to get to the bolts we needed to remove. While you could probably do this job with just basic tools, owning a wide selection of socket extensions and a verious socket/wrench combos makes the job a lot easier.
At this point the motor looks pretty rough. It seems to be leaking around both head gaskets, and we’ll need to take care of a small rust problem. In upcoming Shop Truck installments we’ll detail our revised final engine-part order — after pulling it we had to add a few more parts to the list — and we’ll show you how we built a low-buck engine stand for our battered small block.
Stanley Mechanics Tools [Stanley Tools]
Serpentine Belt Tool [GearWrench]
August 21st, 2008 at 2:22 pm
Perhaps a stupid question, but why not just pull the motor and transmission together? Seem’s like you will probably need to do some work to it anyway…
August 21st, 2008 at 2:47 pm
Hmmm. My memory of these things is that the engine and transmission and heck, the whole drive train go in from the bottom on the assembly line. In the shop, it’s not going to all pull through topside.
August 21st, 2008 at 2:53 pm
As Fred pointed out, length is an issue. Also, it was alot easier to come back and drop a rolling jack under the tranny and disconnect the drive shaft. It rolls out from under the truck pretty quick that way. Which we wound up doing later.
August 21st, 2008 at 6:45 pm
Unless you could not get under the truck near the tailhousing of the transmission (where the drive shaft yoke inserts), perhaps because the dog had already claimed that spot, it is far easier to remove the bell housing bolts from back there. You might want to raise the truck a bit, but probably not more than a foot.
A long extension and a universal socket always beats an open-end wrench and no room to swing the wrench. The upper bolts are sometimes easier to see and remove if the transmission mount is loosened or even disconnected, which allows the whole assembly to pivot back a bit. Just tighten the mount back up once the bolts are out of the bell housing so the trans’ stays put.
August 24th, 2008 at 4:32 pm
Not to dis your Stanley tool buds, but if they didn’t bring any, you need to slide down to the nearest Sears and get a set of ratcheting combos to deal with those carpal tunnel inducing trans bolts.
September 3rd, 2008 at 5:06 pm
I would have to agree with PeterP.
It has been a while (a decade?) since I pulled an engine, and perhaps we always did it wrong, but - assuming that we planned to work on both engine and transmission - we (my brothers, father, and I) always pulled both engine and transmission together. The only times that we didn’t was if there just wasn’t any other way. Usually, by removing the transmission crossmember (if there, if necessary, if possible), removing the radiator, and (again if there, if necessary, if possible), the top radiator crossmember support, and sometimes the grille, it was not only possible but preferable.
Re: FredB’s comments, he jogged a memory that I have spent years always trying to forget. The only job that where we had had no option but to manuever the engine / transmission out and back in from the bottom was the 1963 (1964?) Ford Econoline van that we rebuilt for our church when I was just a teenager getting my feet wet, helping Dad. Gawd, was that an awful experience.
bobk
September 30th, 2008 at 12:03 pm
Sometimes you can drop the transmission crossmember, lower the rear of the transmission a bit and then reach the top bellhousing bolts from above the transmission (while laying underneath the truck). Put the transmission back up, replace the crossmember, then support the front of the transmission with a floor jack as described.
I just rebuilt a 2.2L four in a GMC Sonoma (S-10 sibling) and there is literally no room between the firewall and the top bellhousing bolts. I would up removing the head first, then the engine mounts and then lowering the engine to the crossmember to remove the top bolts. Fun!
I usually cut a 2×4 to span the frame rails, and use a couple of carriage bolts through the wood to the transmission bellhousing to support the transmission while the engine is out. That way, you can move the truck without tying up the floor jack.
November 9th, 2008 at 2:38 pm
I’m not sure if ya’ll have managed to pull that power steering pulley or not now, but if you aren’t going to re-use it, why not drill and tap some holes in it and use a steering wheel puller on it. My buddy and i did this on stubborn pulley once and it worked like a charm.
December 2nd, 2008 at 4:15 pm
You could have tried an old trick that I’ve used for every motor swap I’ve done. Drop the motor and tranny as one, then use a good jack to lift the truck up over the engine/tranny. It requires a lot of overhead clearance, but its pretty darn easy. We usually drop the engine/tranny onto a piece of plywood on some furniture dollies. Then, once the truck it lifted up, we roll everything out from under it. Installation is reverse of removal, as Mr. Bentley is fond of saying.
July 6th, 2009 at 9:21 pm
I happen to be working on the same rebuild. Using a cherry picker and an oak tree; I just lifted the entire body off the frame. With no help from anyone. So why remove the body; We are restoring the vehicle right, and restoring something to me means to make new again. So what about those 18 years of Texas roads.