Comments on: Broken Bolts In Metal

By: ambush27

ambush27 — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 05:56:57 +0000

When Welding a nut to a broken stud or bolt use an asbestos washer under the nut to prevent welding it to the surface. the method I would use largely depends on the severity of the rust and the grade of bolt, sometimes no matter what you do to the head they’ll break off further down and you have to drill and tap it anyway.

By: Donny B

Donny B — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:55:07 +0000

JB weld? I don’t think will hold up to the stress. But welding is tough, it is a great solution but………………… wathc out for heat sink- spread and also becarful not to let the tip go near the threaded area inside the bolt…..

Then of course go to having old sockets around that you can “smash” onto the bolt. Meaning find one that could fit with a lot of persuassion, then heat the socket up with a torch, smash it on with a 3 pound hammer and then wait for it to cool and hit it with a high impact hammer, a sledge , or just a Long extenstion bar…..

By: Casey

Casey — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:19:44 +0000

jbj Says:

June 13th, 2008 at 4:31 pm
clean it up and JB Weld a new bolt to the head

Amen!

By: jbj

jbj — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:31:07 +0000

clean it up and JB Weld a new bolt to the head

By: Patrick Austin

Patrick Austin — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 20:26:14 +0000

MAPP torch + Kroil + some whacks with a hammer takes care of most stuff like this. Otherwise I’ll just drill it out and re-tap the hole. As Bart’s Dad said, welding is a last last last resort for when there’s not access to get a drill into place. No desire to weld the bolt in place accidentally.

By: MR P

MR P — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 19:28:38 +0000

I cant tell how big that bolt is but i have used grip tite sockets work great http://www.bt-andf.com/index.php

and there is the the gator grip
http://www.endeavortool.com/

they have one called the sumo for $600 it can take on the big nuts
http://www.endeavortool.com/Gator_Grip_Gatekey/page/Gator_Grip_Gatekey.html?PHPSESSID=5294d2f49ce7cc990b4fa9ec0454453a

By: Dustbuster7000

Dustbuster7000 — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 18:57:51 +0000

Looks like a job for the ‘gas axe’ (oxy-acetylene torch), assuming you don’t mind a bit heat spilling over into the nearby components. Its going to sputter and pop a bit as it moves through various bits of rust and base metal, but you should be able to get the nut off in fairly short order. After that you need to get a drift or a pin punch or something and knock the bolt out of the hole. If the hole is threaded, then you might consider using the torch to heat up the surrounds to loosen the rust per the above comment (Bart’sDad).

By: Bart'sDad

Bart'sDad — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:45:35 +0000

I’ve used “Super Missile Weld” rod for years with great results. The heat from welding helps break loose the rust, and you generally end up with something longer to grip. It should be noted it is very easy to create more of problem than you started with if you are not very careful.I would not recommend this for the beginner welder. I’ve also had success with MIG welding to do this, but you lose some strength and don’t usually generate enough heat