Comments on: Hole Saw Slug Problem http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/ All tools. All the time. Your source for news, information, and reviews of hand tools, power tools, and tools of all kinds. Mon, 07 Jul 2008 02:27:54 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.2 by: Quick Saw 1 3/8" Assembled Ejectors w/ Bi-metal Hole saw / Arbor http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376123 Wed, 02 Jul 2008 19:29:10 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376123 -----I found some interesting tools that could’ve helped — a slug ejector for $12 and a hole saw hook for $5 — but waiting for a tool to ship would’ve been downtime with no hole saw.---- hi here is the solution www.qksaw.com Quick Saw 1 3/8" Assembled Ejectors w/ Bi-metal Hole saw / Arbor http://www.qksaw.com/2008-products/images/h3.jpg http://www.qksaw.com/ —–I found some interesting tools that could’ve helped — a slug ejector for $12 and a hole saw hook for $5 — but waiting for a tool to ship would’ve been downtime with no hole saw.—-

hi here is the solution www.qksaw.com

Quick Saw 1 3/8″ Assembled Ejectors w/ Bi-metal Hole saw / Arbor
http://www.qksaw.com/2008-products/images/h3.jpg

http://www.qksaw.com/

]]> by: Qk Saw slug ejector sold for $11.99 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376111 Wed, 02 Jul 2008 19:07:54 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376111 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Kn_1Yt0ESU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Kn_1Yt0ESU

]]> by: Qk Saw slug ejector sold for $11.99 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376108 Wed, 02 Jul 2008 19:07:04 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376108 ]]> by: Qk Saw slug ejector sold for $11.99 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376107 Wed, 02 Jul 2008 19:05:30 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-376107 The Qk-Saw hole saw slug ejection system is designed to make drilling a hole with a hole saw more efficient. The ejector is stainless steel compression spring is designed to compress during drilling and pop the slug out when the cut is complete. The slug ejectors are available in the following packages: 7/8-in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (2 7/8-in. long); 11/8 in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (3 1/8 in. long); and 1 3/8 in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (2 7/8-in. long). The company also sells a value pack with all three packages included. The Qk-Saw hole saw slug ejection system is designed to make drilling a hole with a hole saw more efficient. The ejector is stainless steel compression spring is designed to compress during drilling and pop the slug out when the cut is complete. The slug ejectors are available in the following packages: 7/8-in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (2 7/8-in. long); 11/8 in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (3 1/8 in. long); and 1 3/8 in. slug ejector and ¼-in. HS pilot drill (2 7/8-in. long). The company also sells a value pack with all three packages included.

]]> by: Jeff http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-349635 Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:14:50 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-349635 If you use some vice grips to bend 1 tooth on either side of the hole saw inward to increase the saw kerf on the inside the pieces come out easily. Jeff If you use some vice grips to bend 1 tooth on either side of the hole saw inward to increase the saw kerf on the inside the pieces come out easily.

Jeff

]]> by: Tim B. http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322696 Mon, 19 May 2008 18:30:53 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322696 Well -- like everyone says, alot of hole saws DO have holes in the base to ease pushing out the slugs... but if you're a 'on-a-budget' type of guy, you'll often find the cheapest ones (*coughHFcough*) don't always have 'em.... Though actually, the last set I bought from there DID actually have them on all but the smallest of the saws.. Well — like everyone says, alot of hole saws DO have holes in the base to ease pushing out the slugs… but if you’re a ‘on-a-budget’ type of guy, you’ll often find the cheapest ones (*coughHFcough*) don’t always have ‘em…. Though actually, the last set I bought from there DID actually have them on all but the smallest of the saws..

]]> by: Mac http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322668 Mon, 19 May 2008 17:55:21 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322668 Seems to me an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I very rarely have this problem, and when I do, I can typically pry the slug out with a flat-head screwdriver stuck through the holes that are on the sides of nearly every hole saw I've ever seen. What I do to prevent this problem from occurring in the first place is wobble the drill a little about every 3 to 5 seconds while I'm cutting. Doesn't leave the hole perceptibly deformed, but works wonders to make that slug just a tiny bit smaller than the saw and drop right out on its own. Seems to me an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I very rarely have this problem, and when I do, I can typically pry the slug out with a flat-head screwdriver stuck through the holes that are on the sides of nearly every hole saw I’ve ever seen. What I do to prevent this problem from occurring in the first place is wobble the drill a little about every 3 to 5 seconds while I’m cutting. Doesn’t leave the hole perceptibly deformed, but works wonders to make that slug just a tiny bit smaller than the saw and drop right out on its own.

]]> by: Rob http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322156 Mon, 19 May 2008 01:52:20 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-322156 just run 2 wood screws into the plug and pull it out with them thats what most of the plumbers that I have worked with do seems to work pretty good evey time I have needed to do it just run 2 wood screws into the plug and pull it out with them thats
what most of the plumbers that I have worked with do
seems to work pretty good evey time I have needed to do it

]]> by: darksabbat http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-312837 Sun, 11 May 2008 02:28:10 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-312837 I have just taken saw off the collar and pushed it out. I work in a door shop using hole saws for 1.75" doors and it happens almost every time I use it. I have just taken saw off the collar and pushed it out. I work in a door shop using hole saws for 1.75″ doors and it happens almost every time I use it.

]]> by: Frank Townend http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311209 Fri, 09 May 2008 22:44:53 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311209 Nice tip Tim B. Thank you. Nice tip Tim B. Thank you.

]]> by: PutnamEco http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311191 Fri, 09 May 2008 22:22:29 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311191 How about a holesaws that doesn't get the plug stuck? Lenox one tooth www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/ONE_TOOTH_ROUGH_WOOD_HOLE_CUTTER.html Or just use an appropriate self feed bit, I like Milwaukees offering, You can get them in 1" to 4 5/8" How about a holesaws that doesn’t get the plug stuck?

Lenox one tooth
www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/ONE_TOOTH_ROUGH_WOOD_HOLE_CUTTER.html

Or just use an appropriate self feed bit, I like Milwaukees offering, You can get them in 1″ to 4 5/8″

]]> by: fred http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311122 Fri, 09 May 2008 20:58:10 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311122 I had not looked at your links before when I talked about the bent rod pullers we cobble together. It looks like our pullers may infringe on someone else's design. BTW we bought a set of Bosch sheet metal hole saws and they come with springs (old Crain Tile hole saws had the same idea) to eject the slug. They also have a neat rear rim to prevent the saw from blowing through the hole. I had not looked at your links before when I talked about the bent rod pullers we cobble together. It looks like our pullers may infringe on someone else’s design.

BTW we bought a set of Bosch sheet metal hole saws and they come with springs (old Crain Tile hole saws had the same idea) to eject the slug. They also have a neat rear rim to prevent the saw from blowing through the hole.

]]> by: fred http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311049 Fri, 09 May 2008 19:50:37 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311049 For lightly-held pieces of things like siding and sheet metal we fabricated some pullers out of rod-stock that is just a bit smaller in diameter than the slots on the hole-saw sides. The rod in bent into a sprung-apart U-shape and the 2 ends are bent around facing inward into a small "V". To use it you hook the back of the thin plug on 2 sides and pull. Another jig is nothing more than 2 1/4-20 flat-head bolts set into tapped and countersunk holes in piece of 1/4 plate (we use aluminum - but wood might do) The bolts are spaced apart on the same centerlines as the holes located on the back of your hole saws (for all but the smallest sizes this is a standard dimension) The bolts need to be just long enough to push out the plug from the rear. When we do rough-in work we generally avoid the problem entirely by using Selfeed Bits. For lightly-held pieces of things like siding and sheet metal we fabricated some pullers out of rod-stock that is just a bit smaller in diameter than the slots on the hole-saw sides. The rod in bent into a sprung-apart U-shape and the 2 ends are bent around facing inward into a small “V”. To use it you hook the back of the thin plug on 2 sides and pull.

Another jig is nothing more than 2 1/4-20 flat-head bolts set into tapped and countersunk holes in piece of 1/4 plate (we use aluminum - but wood might do) The bolts are spaced apart on the same centerlines as the holes located on the back of your hole saws (for all but the smallest sizes this is a standard dimension) The bolts need to be just long enough to push out the plug from the rear.

When we do rough-in work we generally avoid the problem entirely by using Selfeed Bits.

]]> by: MikeT http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311018 Fri, 09 May 2008 19:08:28 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311018 I second what the other Mike says. My hole saws have a pair of little holes in the back, presumably for this problem. I second what the other Mike says. My hole saws have a pair of little holes in the back, presumably for this problem.

]]> by: Mike http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311011 Fri, 09 May 2008 18:57:26 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-311011 I do a version of the allen wrench technique. My bigger hole saws are in the drill press, making toy wheels and such. There's usually two holes in the back of the hole saw blade, and I push a pair of allen keys into these holes to drive the plug out. I do a version of the allen wrench technique. My bigger hole saws are in the drill press, making toy wheels and such. There’s usually two holes in the back of the hole saw blade, and I push a pair of allen keys into these holes to drive the plug out.

]]> by: Tim B. http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310966 Fri, 09 May 2008 18:11:03 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310966 I've encountered this MANY times... Absolute easiest way I've found (which, I know, sounds like a total hack technique) is to drill (2) long self-tapping screws (longer than the length of the collet bit - 3" sheetrock screws normally work nicely) adjacent to the collet bit, use a beefy screwdriver (or other lever, strong tool, rod, etc) between the screws (like this: O / O ), and slowly run the drill in reverse (or chuck the holesaw into a vise) and use the lever to back the bound up chunk of wood out of the holesaw =) Hope that made sense! Works every time for me... I’ve encountered this MANY times… Absolute easiest way I’ve found (which, I know, sounds like a total hack technique) is to drill (2) long self-tapping screws (longer than the length of the collet bit - 3″ sheetrock screws normally work nicely) adjacent to the collet bit, use a beefy screwdriver (or other lever, strong tool, rod, etc) between the screws (like this: O / O ), and slowly run the drill in reverse (or chuck the holesaw into a vise) and use the lever to back the bound up chunk of wood out of the holesaw =)

Hope that made sense! Works every time for me…

]]> by: JakeSter http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310959 Fri, 09 May 2008 18:06:26 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310959 Use a Quick-Release Hole Saw Arbor. The arbor releases and you push the disk out of the hole saw. Slide it off and it snaps back into place. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=59737&cat=51&ap=1 Use a Quick-Release Hole Saw Arbor. The arbor releases and you push the disk out of the hole saw. Slide it off and it snaps back into place.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=59737&cat=51&ap=1

]]> by: Vody http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310944 Fri, 09 May 2008 17:53:35 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2008/05/09/hole-saw-slug-problem/#comment-310944 This has happened to me 3 times in the past 2 months. The first time I heated up the hole saw really quickly with a cigarette lighter and the chunk fell out. This left burn marks all over the hole saw. The second and third times I drilled two holes in the face of the chunk, angled Allen wrenches into the holes vise gripped the allen wrenches and pulled it out . This has happened to me 3 times in the past 2 months. The first time I heated up the hole saw really quickly with a cigarette lighter and the chunk fell out. This left burn marks all over the hole saw.

The second and third times I drilled two holes in the face of the chunk, angled Allen wrenches into the holes vise gripped the allen wrenches and pulled it out .

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