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Beaver Saw Drill

Who needs a Rotozip, when your cordless drill will work just as well? Grizzly’s Beaver saw-drill can cut a starting hole with its tip and rip through material with its tooth-covered shank. Chuck this bit up into any drill with a 1/4″ chuck or larger, and you’re ready to cut drywall, paneling, and a slew of other materials

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For drilling the initial pilot hole, the first 5/8″ of the Beaver saw-drill’s tip resembles a common, 135°, split-point drill bit. The saw portion — with 90 sharp, side-cutting teeth — makes up the next 1-3/4″. For faster cutting and longer life, both the drilling and cutting portions are precision-ground and coated with titanium nitride. Grizzly makes the entire bit from M2 high-speed steel.

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Made in USA, the Beaver saw drill will only run you $4 at Amazon — a heck of a lot cheaper than a Rotozip, and one less power tool to lug around.

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13 Responses to Cheap-Ass Tools: Beaver Saw Drill

  1. Aaron says:

    Anyone used a Rotozip bit in a drill? Any reason why you couldn’t?

  2. I thought about Rotozip bits when I was posting this. I’ve used them in dremels with varying success, but I think maybe the issue would be the 1/8″ diameter. Rotozip bits might need to spin faster than a normal drill spins. The 1/4″ beaver saw drill is designed to spin at a slower speed for drills plus it has teeth vs. a cutting edge.

  3. KMR says:

    Black and Decker made these Beaver type bits at least 15 years ago… I still have one somewhere. Almost the exact same design, your typical split drill bit head and a shank with a ton of sharp square bodied teeth on it.

  4. Fred says:

    Stanley made one too – their #186

    Woodworker’s Supply sells a set:

    http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=948-873&search=Drill%20Saw

    Drywall routers are more versatile.
    We still have a pre-Bosch-Takeover Roto Zip that still works.

  5. Stuart says:

    It’s not entirely a great idea to use rotozip type bits in a drill due to the chuck design. The jaws are meant to hold drill bits as perpendicular as possible, and can support large loads along the axial direction of a drill bit. Think about it, would you want to put a 1/4″ router bit into a drill? I didn’t think so.

    I suppose one could use a cheap drill to avoid wearing out or damaging the chuck of a good drill, but then again, cheap drill = cheap chuck.

  6. ToolFreak says:

    Lowe’s has been getting rid of these at their stores, on clearance for around $1.

  7. rick says:

    hmmmm… cant wait until somone uses this to remove old drywall and cuts right into some onld wire….

  8. PutnamEco says:

    For an alternative that you can use in a router, there is the pilot panel bit.

    http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-23-6041-4-Inch-Router-Double/dp/B000CSSF7U/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206017834&sr=8-14

    Works great for cutting out window openings in sheathing.

  9. Fred says:

    Re PutnamEco

    Good idea for sheathing.

    We use pilot panel bits (looked in our stock and ours are Dewalt DW6458) – but these are used in a 1/2 inch plunge router. They do make nice clean cuts – but the Roto-Zips are a bit easier to handle up on the wall and do a decent job on both wood and drywall if you pick the right bit. I never tried a pilot panel bit on drywall – but I’d worry about the innards of one of our plunge routers getting clogged with drywall dust.

  10. SuperJdynamite says:

    “hmmmm… cant wait until somone uses this to remove old drywall and cuts right into some onld wire….”

    This is a problem no matter what tool you’re using to cut into drywall. It’s a good idea to sweep the area with an AC sensor if you’re unsure what’s behind the wall.

  11. SuperJdynamite says:

    “Anyone used a Rotozip bit in a drill? Any reason why you couldn’t?”

    Never tried it, but the “pitch” of the rotozip cutting edge is much steeper and reflects that it’s designed to be used at high speed. I think that once chucked into a relatively slow hand drill it wouldn’t cut all that well.

  12. Fred says:

    Re SuperJdynamite Says:

    Your’e absolutely right about old construction.
    I have a demo sub who typically deals with the issue – so my crews usually start with bare walls on a remodel or build the walls on an addition – but I sometimes need to do some more surgical work. We use Fluke Low Vott Alert (1LAC-A) which sees most anything.

  13. Mark says:

    I am a professional cabinet maker and the concept of this bit seemed great for odd ball problems that come up during installation. I tried expanding a hole in 1/4″ MDF. Its TOTAL CRAP. There was virtually no sideways cutting; I had as much luck with a standard drill bit.

    Might be OK for drywall, but nothing harder.

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