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	<title>Comments on: Get Centered With A Transfer Punch</title>
	<atom:link href="http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/</link>
	<description>All tools. All the time.  Your source for news, information, and reviews of hand tools, power tools, and tools of all kinds.</description>
	<pubDate>Sun, 07 Sep 2008 06:28:27 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Benjamen Johnson</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-382540</link>
		<dc:creator>Benjamen Johnson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2008 15:31:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-382540</guid>
		<description>Jerry,

You do need a through hole to stick the punch into.  I'm not sure about an illustrated guide, but you just stick it into the through hole and tap with a hammer to transfer the center of the hole to the surface below.

Sound like you need something like a dowel center for a 4-40 screw.

http://toolmonger.com/2008/02/27/dowel-joinery-on-the-cheap-with-dowel-centers/

It wouldn't be hard to make something to do the job, like take a 4-40 screw, chop off the head and sharpen it.  Then screw it into the hole, place the aluminum skin over it and tap lightly.  You'd have to be careful to leave enough screw so you could back it out with a pliers and not to hit it so hard as to screw up the threads.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jerry,</p>
<p>You do need a through hole to stick the punch into.  I&#8217;m not sure about an illustrated guide, but you just stick it into the through hole and tap with a hammer to transfer the center of the hole to the surface below.</p>
<p>Sound like you need something like a dowel center for a 4-40 screw.</p>
<p><a href="http://toolmonger.com/2008/02/27/dowel-joinery-on-the-cheap-with-dowel-centers/" rel="nofollow">http://toolmonger.com/2008/02/27/dowel-joinery-on-the-cheap-with-dowel-centers/</a></p>
<p>It wouldn&#8217;t be hard to make something to do the job, like take a 4-40 screw, chop off the head and sharpen it.  Then screw it into the hole, place the aluminum skin over it and tap lightly.  You&#8217;d have to be careful to leave enough screw so you could back it out with a pliers and not to hit it so hard as to screw up the threads.</p>
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		<title>By: Jerry Chevalier</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-381061</link>
		<dc:creator>Jerry Chevalier</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 10:11:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-381061</guid>
		<description>I am still not sure how to use them in my application. 
I hve aluminum skin mounting blocks thast only have an access point from the outside. So I place my aluminum skin on top of it but then how do i find the holes? The mounting block holes are 4-40. It seems that these punches are for use if you have access to the back side of the device you wish to screw into. Is there any illustrated guide to see these in use??</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am still not sure how to use them in my application.<br />
I hve aluminum skin mounting blocks thast only have an access point from the outside. So I place my aluminum skin on top of it but then how do i find the holes? The mounting block holes are 4-40. It seems that these punches are for use if you have access to the back side of the device you wish to screw into. Is there any illustrated guide to see these in use??</p>
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		<title>By: Nick Carter</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184976</link>
		<dc:creator>Nick Carter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:09:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184976</guid>
		<description>If you want good ones, get the Spellmaco ones, much better made than the import sets.
http://www.rlspellmanmfg.com/index_punches.html

The other use of the import sets is gauging the degree of auction fever at an industrial auction. If the transfer punch set sells for $5 then chances are prices will be realistic, the buyers are educated and know what stuff is worth, you might get a good deal. If the transfer punch set goes for $40.00-$60.00, as I have seen many times, then it's probably best to just get back in your rig and head home. You'll end up paying more than new price for anything you want.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you want good ones, get the Spellmaco ones, much better made than the import sets.<br />
<a href="http://www.rlspellmanmfg.com/index_punches.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.rlspellmanmfg.com/index_punches.html</a></p>
<p>The other use of the import sets is gauging the degree of auction fever at an industrial auction. If the transfer punch set sells for $5 then chances are prices will be realistic, the buyers are educated and know what stuff is worth, you might get a good deal. If the transfer punch set goes for $40.00-$60.00, as I have seen many times, then it&#8217;s probably best to just get back in your rig and head home. You&#8217;ll end up paying more than new price for anything you want.</p>
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		<title>By: Tom</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184900</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:17:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184900</guid>
		<description>These are great for some applications, but I find that I use dowel centers more often. I was once struggling to to drill holes for a 10" machine screw to go through some strange angled parts in a canoe seat. My dad pulled these out and it saved me tons of time and struggle.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&#38;p=44995&#38;cat=1,180,42288</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These are great for some applications, but I find that I use dowel centers more often. I was once struggling to to drill holes for a 10&#8243; machine screw to go through some strange angled parts in a canoe seat. My dad pulled these out and it saved me tons of time and struggle.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=44995&amp;cat=1,180,42288" rel="nofollow">http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=44995&amp;cat=1,180,42288</a></p>
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		<title>By: Bill</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184812</link>
		<dc:creator>Bill</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:05:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184812</guid>
		<description>I use these all the time, I'm currently using them as alignment pins for some fussy glue-ups. Drill 2 holes in the waste portion of the blank, and use the drill bit in one hole, punch in the other, and viola, perfect alignment, and no glue creep while clamping.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use these all the time, I&#8217;m currently using them as alignment pins for some fussy glue-ups. Drill 2 holes in the waste portion of the blank, and use the drill bit in one hole, punch in the other, and viola, perfect alignment, and no glue creep while clamping.</p>
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		<title>By: Frank Townend</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184724</link>
		<dc:creator>Frank Townend</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 10:32:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184724</guid>
		<description>Very useful around the shop.  Also helps determine a dowel / bolt / rod size, etc.  Can be used to line-up a stack of items where you need to bore out a larger hole.  Nice sharp points (I have the Lee Valley set) and one tool to leave out on the workbench; they will get used.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&#38;p=54892&#38;cat=1,43456</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very useful around the shop.  Also helps determine a dowel / bolt / rod size, etc.  Can be used to line-up a stack of items where you need to bore out a larger hole.  Nice sharp points (I have the Lee Valley set) and one tool to leave out on the workbench; they will get used.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=54892&amp;cat=1,43456" rel="nofollow">http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=54892&amp;cat=1,43456</a></p>
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		<title>By: Trevor Dyck</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184489</link>
		<dc:creator>Trevor Dyck</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 03:20:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/20/get-centered-with-a-transfer-punch/#comment-184489</guid>
		<description>I'd buy the expensive set forged in the fires of Mordor. Its just how I roll. But cool tool regardless - I forgot these existed.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;d buy the expensive set forged in the fires of Mordor. Its just how I roll. But cool tool regardless - I forgot these existed.</p>
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