Comments on: Hot or Not? Minwax Polyshades http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/ All tools. All the time. Your source for news, information, and reviews of hand tools, power tools, and tools of all kinds. Wed, 09 Jul 2008 06:29:16 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.2 by: W Howard http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-286889 Wed, 23 Apr 2008 00:36:00 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-286889 I just finished refinishing a large cabinet. I did a test spot on the back of the door - difficult to work with and blotchy. However, applying a heavy coat of wood conditioner first and then applying the stain solved the problem. Smooth, even finish. Easy to apply. I just finished refinishing a large cabinet. I did a test spot on the back of the door - difficult to work with and blotchy. However, applying a heavy coat of wood conditioner first and then applying the stain solved the problem. Smooth, even finish. Easy to apply.

]]> by: generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-260765 Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:56:48 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-260765 hey jolyn where do you live? im in between freelance jobs right now and can use the extra cash if you really need it done nice and dont feel like doing it yourself. click on my username for contact info. hey jolyn where do you live? im in between freelance jobs right now and can use the extra cash if you really need it done nice and dont feel like doing it yourself. click on my username for contact info.

]]> by: generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-260764 Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:50:45 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-260764 Depends on how bad you want that color change jolyn. will it work? (as easy as you expect.) the quick answer is NO. you cannot just "slap it on" like paint. its a colored clear and any unevenness in the layers will show. second of all if there is any laquer, wax, oil soap, endust ect... on the existing finish that needs to be removed otherwise it will not stick or peal later. then you have to lightly sand it down first and steel wool between coats. this will be a nightmare on your carpets and bed spread. Extended answer: is it possible? absolutly! iv'e done plenty of work on furiture in place. shove some cardboard under the edge where the wood meets the floor and push it under a good 6 inches if possible so you dont stain the carpet/flooring and then use 3 to 6 mill plastic and cover everything you dont want to clean later. distance does not matter as when sanding the whole room will fill with dust. to do the min 3 coats and allow each one to dry properly (8-12 hours if you dont it will be sticky and smuge when you try to steel wool it) you will need to keep that room off limits for a good 2 or 3 days. after everything is covered and taped open up all the windows on that level and leave the door open, use a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the whole thing down good, using a fine bush is good too. then let the mineral spirits dry/flash off (5 to 10 min). then shut the door to that room and rub the whole thing down with a 220 grit sand paper untill the wood feals smooth but slightly "cottony" to the touch. then wipe down with tack cloth, re-open the door and apply the first coat with a sponge brush with smooth, slightly overlapping strokes in the same direction, (how it looks when wet is how it is going to look when dry so no streeks) and let dry. steel wool- second coat- ect ect (read entire can and see all previous posts for more info.) Depends on how bad you want that color change jolyn. will it work? (as easy as you expect.) the quick answer is NO. you cannot just “slap it on” like paint. its a colored clear and any unevenness in the layers will show. second of all if there is any laquer, wax, oil soap, endust ect… on the existing finish that needs to be removed otherwise it will not stick or peal later. then you have to lightly sand it down first and steel wool between coats. this will be a nightmare on your carpets and bed spread. Extended answer: is it possible? absolutly! iv’e done plenty of work on furiture in place. shove some cardboard under the edge where the wood meets the floor and push it under a good 6 inches if possible so you dont stain the carpet/flooring and then use 3 to 6 mill plastic and cover everything you dont want to clean later. distance does not matter as when sanding the whole room will fill with dust. to do the min 3 coats and allow each one to dry properly (8-12 hours if you dont it will be sticky and smuge when you try to steel wool it) you will need to keep that room off limits for a good 2 or 3 days. after everything is covered and taped open up all the windows on that level and leave the door open, use a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the whole thing down good, using a fine bush is good too. then let the mineral spirits dry/flash off (5 to 10 min). then shut the door to that room and rub the whole thing down with a 220 grit sand paper untill the wood feals smooth but slightly “cottony” to the touch. then wipe down with tack cloth, re-open the door and apply the first coat with a sponge brush with smooth, slightly overlapping strokes in the same direction, (how it looks when wet is how it is going to look when dry so no streeks) and let dry. steel wool- second coat- ect ect (read entire can and see all previous posts for more info.)

]]> by: Jolyn http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-255998 Thu, 13 Mar 2008 19:41:24 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-255998 Can someone please help me? I have a large armoire that is a finished piece. I believe it's pine and it's stained a honey color. I want to darken it, more like a mahogany, w/o hauling it out to the garage, stripping, sanding, etc. I thought this product would be a great solution--I could slap the stuff on right in the bedroom--will this work? Any suggestions? Can someone please help me? I have a large armoire that is a finished piece. I believe it’s pine and it’s stained a honey color. I want to darken it, more like a mahogany, w/o hauling it out to the garage, stripping, sanding, etc. I thought this product would be a great solution–I could slap the stuff on right in the bedroom–will this work? Any suggestions?

]]> by: Melissa http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-246955 Sat, 01 Mar 2008 22:07:14 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-246955 Used it on large pine bookcase which was first treated with a prestain. The first two coats of Honey Pine color poly were not perfect, and a little struggle, but eventually acceptable. Selected darker color on third and "final" coat (as product says you can do) and color would have been great, but product way too sticky and pooled and fought throughout. I'm finally left with stripping it off somehow or living with a new bookcase looking like crap. It will be easily three times the work than had I used gel stain and traditional polyurethane on top. I would never recommend polyshades except for use in specific limited situation. Used it on large pine bookcase which was first treated with a prestain. The first two coats of Honey Pine color poly were not perfect, and a little struggle, but eventually acceptable. Selected darker color on third and “final” coat (as product says you can do) and color would have been great, but product way too sticky and pooled and fought throughout. I’m finally left with stripping it off somehow or living with a new bookcase looking like crap. It will be easily three times the work than had I used gel stain and traditional polyurethane on top. I would never recommend polyshades except for use in specific limited situation.

]]> by: Generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-226680 Fri, 08 Feb 2008 18:58:15 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-226680 UPDATE: For the people who dont want to stress on bloctchy toner puddles I've found a redily available, EXACT! matching stain color to minwax's polyshades bombay Mahogany. Instead use Varathane Premium Stain # 257 named "Caberet" available online and at Walmart and some Home Depot stores Step 1) Stir can to get the pigment mixed fully then apply generously. Step 2) Wait for 5-7 min, rub off stain and allow 30 min to 1 hour to dry. Step 3) Apply second coat same as in step 2 but allow more time to dry completly Step 4) apply any clear polyurathane, varnish, or wax of your choice. Note: if staining softwoods like pine you may want to apply a pre-stain conditioner before staining. this helps even absorbtion of any color stain. UPDATE:
For the people who dont want to stress on bloctchy toner puddles I’ve found a redily available, EXACT! matching stain color to minwax’s polyshades bombay Mahogany. Instead use Varathane Premium Stain # 257 named “Caberet” available online and at Walmart and some Home Depot stores
Step 1) Stir can to get the pigment mixed fully then apply generously.
Step 2) Wait for 5-7 min, rub off stain and allow 30 min to 1 hour to dry.
Step 3) Apply second coat same as in step 2 but allow more time to dry completly
Step 4) apply any clear polyurathane, varnish, or wax of your choice.

Note: if staining softwoods like pine you may want to apply a pre-stain conditioner before staining. this helps even absorbtion of any color stain.

]]> by: Dan http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-220003 Sat, 02 Feb 2008 18:27:08 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-220003 This stuff is great! it save time in the comparison to a professional 4 step finish job. but it is not the "instant" 1 step/single coat finish people expect. today people want to buy a finish product that all they need to do is pop the lid and throw it at the cabinets like a grenade and there done. Dont try to acheive the desired color on the first coat, if you do you are putting it on way too thick. put on thin as can states and get color on 3rd or 4th coat. you can also rub out with steel wool any small streaks except on the final coat ofcourse This stuff is great! it save time in the comparison to a professional 4 step finish job. but it is not the “instant” 1 step/single coat finish people expect. today people want to buy a finish product that all they need to do is pop the lid and throw it at the cabinets like a grenade and there done. Dont try to acheive the desired color on the first coat, if you do you are putting it on way too thick. put on thin as can states and get color on 3rd or 4th coat. you can also rub out with steel wool any small streaks except on the final coat ofcourse

]]> by: Generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219871 Sat, 02 Feb 2008 16:00:46 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219871 To Answer the question after all my static, I say it's HOT! I have beautifull results on my mouldings, cabinerty, and i even did my 2 expensive bay windows. all looking excelent against the Ralph Lauren haystack-tan color paint on the walls. To Answer the question after all my static, I say it’s HOT! I have beautifull results on my mouldings, cabinerty, and i even did my 2 expensive bay windows. all looking excelent against the Ralph Lauren haystack-tan color paint on the walls.

]]> by: Generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219863 Sat, 02 Feb 2008 15:53:09 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219863 It should also be noted…. This stuff is very thick and sticky! Therefore trying to apply it evenly on a glossy or very smooth surface is nearly impossible. Sand your wood with a maximum of 220 grit sand paper before your first coat. Anyone sanding with 300-600 will not achieve the proper “FLOW” required to blend your brush strokes. Also hardwoods work better than softwoods, red oak being the best since it has such deep pores. It can be used on pine but you must sand it so the surface almost feels like a fine fabric. Before the second coat you absolutely MUST use steel wool. As this will stimulate the porosity of the surface you had on the first coat. Without steel wool between coats you will get blotchiness. And knotty pine is almost impossible to work with as the different density in wood as you approach the knots with change the resulting sheen in finish, making some areas appear shinier than others in the light. (All references to “Candy Apple appearance” or “red Santos Mahogany” are with using the “Bombay Mahogany” color) It should also be noted…. This stuff is very thick and sticky! Therefore trying to apply it evenly on a glossy or very smooth surface is nearly impossible. Sand your wood with a maximum of 220 grit sand paper before your first coat. Anyone sanding with 300-600 will not achieve the proper “FLOW” required to blend your brush strokes. Also hardwoods work better than softwoods, red oak being the best since it has such deep pores. It can be used on pine but you must sand it so the surface almost feels like a fine fabric. Before the second coat you absolutely MUST use steel wool. As this will stimulate the porosity of the surface you had on the first coat. Without steel wool between coats you will get blotchiness. And knotty pine is almost impossible to work with as the different density in wood as you approach the knots with change the resulting sheen in finish, making some areas appear shinier than others in the light.

(All references to “Candy Apple appearance” or “red Santos Mahogany” are with using the “Bombay Mahogany” color)

]]> by: Generaltzao http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219845 Sat, 02 Feb 2008 15:34:16 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-219845 Anyone who said they used it once and never again will give it a bad wrap. This stuff definitely has its own category in the "how-to" department. The thing is this is not a STAIN in any way. Actually it’s a "toner" much like a colored clear tinting that will darken if there is more saturation in one area. Any auto body guy will know how this stuff works as it is much like an expensive 2-color candy apple paint job. But in this case the wood is your base coat and the polyshades is the translucent clear color. Hence the reasons why many people have much more luck with spraying. However this is the only product in any stain category that will give you a luscious candy apple dark red glow that makes the wood look like aged, red Santos mahogany. The main thing is to use a foam applicator and cover the entire surface with each coat, maintaining a wet edge without it being too wet. All the while watching for any dark streaks as you go, if you make a darker area or streak you need to immediately go over it with a dry foam applicator several times pulling it longer with each pass almost like stretching taffy until the darkness fades and blends into its surrounding area. This would be why others suggest spraying as it is easier to feather your edges with a spray. However it will dull the depth and richness if you spray rather than using a foam brush. The normal reaction of new users is to add more and more to cover up the dark areas. But because it is translucent, the blemish will only show up darker each time. This results in it getting such a bad wrap. But if you experiment with it enough and you get the "feel" of how it works, you will have some of the most beautiful finishes that are not possible with a stain method. They almost glow with depth and warmth. Anyone who said they used it once and never again will give it a bad wrap. This stuff definitely has its own category in the “how-to” department. The thing is this is not a STAIN in any way. Actually it’s a “toner” much like a colored clear tinting that will darken if there is more saturation in one area. Any auto body guy will know how this stuff works as it is much like an expensive 2-color candy apple paint job. But in this case the wood is your base coat and the polyshades is the translucent clear color. Hence the reasons why many people have much more luck with spraying.

However this is the only product in any stain category that will give you a luscious candy apple dark red glow that makes the wood look like aged, red Santos mahogany. The main thing is to use a foam applicator and cover the entire surface with each coat, maintaining a wet edge without it being too wet. All the while watching for any dark streaks as you go, if you make a darker area or streak you need to immediately go over it with a dry foam applicator several times pulling it longer with each pass almost like stretching taffy until the darkness fades and blends into its surrounding area. This would be why others suggest spraying as it is easier to feather your edges with a spray. However it will dull the depth and richness if you spray rather than using a foam brush.

The normal reaction of new users is to add more and more to cover up the dark areas. But because it is translucent, the blemish will only show up darker each time. This results in it getting such a bad wrap. But if you experiment with it enough and you get the “feel” of how it works, you will have some of the most beautiful finishes that are not possible with a stain method. They almost glow with depth and warmth.

]]> by: sbc http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-206549 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:57:22 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-206549 hot! i have some bamboo outdoor furniture pieces, they had lost their finish and turned grey. i used the pecan color and used a hplv gun to spray on one coat taking care not to get any runs or drips, looked great one easy step and was the exact color i wanted. i also had some bamboo fencing i used the bombay mahogony color on it also worked great! no complaints here. however i would not use it for teally high end uses, outdoor furniture and fences etc is the limit of what i'll use it on. hot!
i have some bamboo outdoor furniture pieces, they had lost their finish and turned grey. i used the pecan color and used a hplv gun to spray on one coat taking care not to get any runs or drips, looked great one easy step and was the exact color i wanted.
i also had some bamboo fencing i used the bombay mahogony color on it also worked great!
no complaints here.
however i would not use it for teally high end uses, outdoor furniture and fences etc is the limit of what i’ll use it on.

]]> by: Steve http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-205782 Thu, 17 Jan 2008 02:54:43 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-205782 Brushing it with either bristle or foam is useless. All of the above complaints will occur. However, I spray with a traditional air system and the stuff is as advertised: high build, & translucent to opaque depending on the number of coats. I set my gun to mist the stuff--so fine you can hardly see it come out of the gun, but you can see it slowly build on the piece. The first coat should look ridiculously underdone, but enough to set the wood fibers for sanding. Carefully sand this first coat when it's fully hardened, then shoot another very thin coat, trying to even out the building finish. Let it set for 10-15 minutes and shoot a third thin coat, going for a uniform opacity. If you're trying to cover maple or ash with the Bombay, yeah, you'll need the four coats, maybe more. That may not be a good pairing. My best results end with a translucent finish through which you can just barely, but evenly, see the underlying wood grain. Learning when to stop the build is key, but not hard to master if you build slowly. Plus, you will not get runs. Don't try to master a brushing technique, it's a waste of time and money. Spray! I'll leave the HVLP vs. air systems debate to others. Brushing it with either bristle or foam is useless. All of the above complaints will occur. However, I spray with a traditional air system and the stuff is as advertised: high build, & translucent to opaque depending on the number of coats. I set my gun to mist the stuff–so fine you can hardly see it come out of the gun, but you can see it slowly build on the piece. The first coat should look ridiculously underdone, but enough to set the wood fibers for sanding. Carefully sand this first coat when it’s fully hardened, then shoot another very thin coat, trying to even out the building finish. Let it set for 10-15 minutes and shoot a third thin coat, going for a uniform opacity. If you’re trying to cover maple or ash with the Bombay, yeah, you’ll need the four coats, maybe more. That may not be a good pairing. My best results end with a translucent finish through which you can just barely, but evenly, see the underlying wood grain. Learning when to stop the build is key, but not hard to master if you build slowly. Plus, you will not get runs. Don’t try to master a brushing technique, it’s a waste of time and money. Spray! I’ll leave the HVLP vs. air systems debate to others.

]]> by: Alex http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-196970 Sun, 06 Jan 2008 23:50:29 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-196970 Better than warm, but not hot..... I've used PloyShades for the last three years on walking sticks that I turn for a local school (they give them to the graduates). Tiger maple sticks and cherry pommels come off the lathe sanded to 400. From there they are hung and sprayed with two coats with an automotive "touch-up" spray gun with great results on the sticks and inconsistent results on the pommels (read "drips in the details"). My HVLP gun blotched the heck out of the sticks, but I figure that's because of the nozzle size. I'm considering an air brush for the pommels.... It's not quite "Spray and Pray," but it's close. To be fair, the finish really, really pops with a quick rub from a white scuff pad and a wipe of furniture polish. The Olde Maple (sticks) & Bombay Mahogany (pommel) look great together, so I'll keep it. ~Alex Better than warm, but not hot…..

I’ve used PloyShades for the last three years on walking sticks that I turn for a local school (they give them to the graduates). Tiger maple sticks and cherry pommels come off the lathe sanded to 400. From there they are hung and sprayed with two coats with an automotive “touch-up” spray gun with great results on the sticks and inconsistent results on the pommels (read “drips in the details”). My HVLP gun blotched the heck out of the sticks, but I figure that’s because of the nozzle size. I’m considering an air brush for the pommels….

It’s not quite “Spray and Pray,” but it’s close. To be fair, the finish really, really pops with a quick rub from a white scuff pad and a wipe of furniture polish. The Olde Maple (sticks) & Bombay Mahogany (pommel) look great together, so I’ll keep it.

~Alex

]]> by: Albert Navarro http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-195595 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 03:51:48 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-195595 I guess I am the lone exception; I used the same Bombay Mahogany product on my front exterior doors. My results were excellent! However, I sprayed. I used an HVLP Gravity Spray gun and did have to put on 4 coats, but probably because I did not put too much on with the other coats. However, I did not trust the claims made by Minwax, so I sprayed on an additional 3 coats of Spar polyurethane to finish the job. The results were great, furniture quality on an exterior door. Too much prep work? Probably, but this was my biggest honey-do task in preperation for the sale of the house this year. I figured the front door makes a HUGE first impression, and after curb appeal, is probably the next major things people notice while waiting for someone to answer the door. Albert I guess I am the lone exception; I used the same Bombay Mahogany product on my front exterior doors. My results were excellent! However, I sprayed.

I used an HVLP Gravity Spray gun and did have to put on 4 coats, but probably because I did not put too much on with the other coats.

However, I did not trust the claims made by Minwax, so I sprayed on an additional 3 coats of Spar polyurethane to finish the job. The results were great, furniture quality on an exterior door.

Too much prep work? Probably, but this was my biggest honey-do task in preperation for the sale of the house this year. I figured the front door makes a HUGE first impression, and after curb appeal, is probably the next major things people notice while waiting for someone to answer the door.

Albert

]]> by: ptoolman http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-186490 Sun, 23 Dec 2007 21:16:29 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-186490 ditto - tried on a very simple project (some old furniture), and had to re-strip the nightstand TWICE! Third times charm? Not with polyshades...I'm headed to Loews to get the traditional stuff. Very disappointed, and glad to find that there were so many negative concurrences with the product. ditto - tried on a very simple project (some old furniture), and had to re-strip the nightstand TWICE! Third times charm? Not with polyshades…I’m headed to Loews to get the traditional stuff. Very disappointed, and glad to find that there were so many negative concurrences with the product.

]]> by: ben http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-179878 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 21:06:56 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-179878 i'll be damned... same experience as me. I used that exact can... the mahogany finish. i thought it was me who was bad but this stuff is horrible. I had issues with application... it wouldn't go on smooth and would clump up a lot. And honestly I saw no change in applying more than 1 coat. It "felt" like after the first coat, then nothing could be done. my vote: NOT i’ll be damned… same experience as me. I used that exact can… the mahogany finish. i thought it was me who was bad but this stuff is horrible. I had issues with application… it wouldn’t go on smooth and would clump up a lot. And honestly I saw no change in applying more than 1 coat. It “felt” like after the first coat, then nothing could be done.

my vote: NOT

]]> by: Joe Adamson http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178229 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 17:54:15 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178229 I Agree with James. Overall it's not hot, but if you spray it (especially in an HVLP gun) and use it more like a toner you can get OK results with it. The key here is less is more, the coats have to be really light (something really hard to do with a brush) and avoid applying to vertical surfaces if possible. Bottom line too much effort for little if any gain. Stick to Gel stains and wipe on poly for maximum durability and for the natural look danish oil and paste wax. I Agree with James. Overall it’s not hot, but if you spray it (especially in an HVLP gun) and use it more like a toner you can get OK results with it. The key here is less is more, the coats have to be really light (something really hard to do with a brush) and avoid applying to vertical surfaces if possible. Bottom line too much effort for little if any gain. Stick to Gel stains and wipe on poly for maximum durability and for the natural look danish oil and paste wax.

]]> by: Sheldon http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178228 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 17:46:27 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178228 I would imagine it's a nightmare to use . . . I took on a "tinting/toning" project where I needed to add color to some cabinets (basically, just making the cabinets darker). Usually I would just add color to some lacquer but they don't sell it at Home Depot anymore and it's fairly expensive anywhere else not to mention it's toxic (so spraying it indoors on the fixed cabinets would be difficult) and spraying it is banned in some states (though not with HVLP from what I understand). Anyway, I went with some "Polycrylic" and added the color to that (I used Transtint that I got from the local woodworking store). Supposedly the Polycrylic has the same properties of lacquer one of which is that each coat blends into the next. I was using an HVLP sprayer and it was hard even with that to get the color even . . . I couldn't imagine trying to brush on the color that way (the Polycrilic is milky white and thin too). Also, from what I understand with any "toning" you should always put a clear coat or two on top of the tone color to protect from scratches. So after three coats of color I had to spray on two clear coats. And the one major disadvantage of Polycrylic (over lacquer) is that the dry times are longer. Again, I couldn't imagine trying to do all that with a brush or rag or foam or whatever other "by hand" method ya'll use. I guess that didn't have much to do with Polyshades, it just reminded me of toning. Sheldon I would imagine it’s a nightmare to use . . . I took on a “tinting/toning” project where I needed to add color to some cabinets (basically, just making the cabinets darker). Usually I would just add color to some lacquer but they don’t sell it at Home Depot anymore and it’s fairly expensive anywhere else not to mention it’s toxic (so spraying it indoors on the fixed cabinets would be difficult) and spraying it is banned in some states (though not with HVLP from what I understand). Anyway, I went with some “Polycrylic” and added the color to that (I used Transtint that I got from the local woodworking store). Supposedly the Polycrylic has the same properties of lacquer one of which is that each coat blends into the next. I was using an HVLP sprayer and it was hard even with that to get the color even . . . I couldn’t imagine trying to brush on the color that way (the Polycrilic is milky white and thin too). Also, from what I understand with any “toning” you should always put a clear coat or two on top of the tone color to protect from scratches. So after three coats of color I had to spray on two clear coats. And the one major disadvantage of Polycrylic (over lacquer) is that the dry times are longer. Again, I couldn’t imagine trying to do all that with a brush or rag or foam or whatever other “by hand” method ya’ll use.

I guess that didn’t have much to do with Polyshades, it just reminded me of toning.

Sheldon

]]> by: Greg Bennett http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178225 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 17:40:02 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178225 Bad experience here too. My wife is an interior decorator. She found an unfinished table for one of her customers and we tried to finish it with Polyshades. After the first blotchy coat, we figured out that it wasn't going to work well enough, so we actually stripped it off and finished the table with the traditional separate stain and clear finish. No more Polyshades here... Bad experience here too. My wife is an interior decorator. She found an unfinished table for one of her customers and we tried to finish it with Polyshades. After the first blotchy coat, we figured out that it wasn’t going to work well enough, so we actually stripped it off and finished the table with the traditional separate stain and clear finish. No more Polyshades here…

]]> by: James Brauer http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178191 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 17:08:13 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178191 Warm. I just used this on some pine trim for a partial basement finish, and it works fine. A stain would have bloched the pine, and I wanted a one step process. Would I put this on fine furniture? Hell no. I've used Danish oil, shellac flakes, Varathane poly, bee's wax, automotive lacquer, jell poly, alcohol based stain, water based stain, and probably some other things I can't remember. This stuff is fine for trim and doors where it doesn't get heavy use. I've sprayed it with HVLP and it works for that as well. You can put on a couple of coats till you get the right shade, then scuff it and put clear on top of that to build the finish. If it runs the brush is too wet. Warm. I just used this on some pine trim for a partial basement finish, and it works fine. A stain would have bloched the pine, and I wanted a one step process. Would I put this on fine furniture? Hell no. I’ve used Danish oil, shellac flakes, Varathane poly, bee’s wax, automotive lacquer, jell poly, alcohol based stain, water based stain, and probably some other things I can’t remember. This stuff is fine for trim and doors where it doesn’t get heavy use. I’ve sprayed it with HVLP and it works for that as well. You can put on a couple of coats till you get the right shade, then scuff it and put clear on top of that to build the finish. If it runs the brush is too wet.

]]> by: Aaron Baca http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178112 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 14:18:58 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178112 NOT. I used this stuff on a set of shelves my dad and I fabbed up and it was a nightmare. It runs like mad and unlike paint or poly, wherever it accumulates, the shade is significantly darker. Finishing is not the stage where you want to experience inconsistencies in a product. NOT. I used this stuff on a set of shelves my dad and I fabbed up and it was a nightmare. It runs like mad and unlike paint or poly, wherever it accumulates, the shade is significantly darker. Finishing is not the stage where you want to experience inconsistencies in a product.

]]> by: Kevin Williamson http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178100 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 13:42:37 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178100 I haven't used this particular project, but I have never had any luck with stain/sealer combos. They just tend to have an artificial fake grain look to me and if you get a drip and try to rub it out when it dries you wind up removing stain as well for a nice little light spot. I would stick with adding stain and then sealing afterwards I haven’t used this particular project, but I have never had any luck with stain/sealer combos. They just tend to have an artificial fake grain look to me and if you get a drip and try to rub it out when it dries you wind up removing stain as well for a nice little light spot. I would stick with adding stain and then sealing afterwards

]]> by: Gary Ratajczak http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178094 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 13:32:06 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-178094 I used it on my vanity and cabinets in the bathroom. Yup - same experience. I am locked in, so I had to use it for the beadboard as well. If you have a flat surface (beadboard) it seems fine. ANY little cove, bead, angle, edge, dip, etc. - etc. etc. - it just runs. My biggest recommendation is to use a foam brush. DON'T dip and wipe the edge on the can - it makes bubbles. Dip a small amount, and apply. Use 400 grit wet/dry paper in-between, or one of he new 400 (fine) grip foam pads from the big box stores. This will take off all the little dust nubs. In my dining room, I had GREAT luck with just minwax stain, followed by Zar waterbased sealer (seals oak so it doesn't turn black with waterbased finish), and then Zar water based satin poly. Coated in the basement (no smell), and it drioes FAST!! I used it on my vanity and cabinets in the bathroom. Yup - same experience. I am locked in, so I had to use it for the beadboard as well. If you have a flat surface (beadboard) it seems fine. ANY little cove, bead, angle, edge, dip, etc. - etc. etc. - it just runs.

My biggest recommendation is to use a foam brush. DON’T dip and wipe the edge on the can - it makes bubbles. Dip a small amount, and apply.

Use 400 grit wet/dry paper in-between, or one of he new 400 (fine) grip foam pads from the big box stores. This will take off all the little dust nubs.

In my dining room, I had GREAT luck with just minwax stain, followed by Zar waterbased sealer (seals oak so it doesn’t turn black with waterbased finish), and then Zar water based satin poly. Coated in the basement (no smell), and it drioes FAST!!

]]> by: Hank http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-177856 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 06:29:48 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-177856 It is as evil as it seems. I am learning that shortcuts on stuff you really want to look good are bad. Using the methods the books and pros tell us to use, and learning how they do it, is the only way. Whether finishing or building. It is as evil as it seems. I am learning that shortcuts on stuff you really want to look good are bad. Using the methods the books and pros tell us to use, and learning how they do it, is the only way. Whether finishing or building.

]]> by: Adam http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-177796 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 03:26:35 +0000 http://toolmonger.com/2007/12/11/hot-or-not-minwax-polyshades/#comment-177796 I just did a small project with this stuff (the exact color you mentioned, in fact) and definitely had a lot of difficulty. I've never done any wood staining before so I thought it was just my lack of skill. It did come out looking pretty nice, but it took a lot of effort and there are a lot of drips and a few splotches. Glad to know that my troubles were at least partially to blame on the product, and not just my ineptitude. :) I just did a small project with this stuff (the exact color you mentioned, in fact) and definitely had a lot of difficulty. I’ve never done any wood staining before so I thought it was just my lack of skill. It did come out looking pretty nice, but it took a lot of effort and there are a lot of drips and a few splotches. Glad to know that my troubles were at least partially to blame on the product, and not just my ineptitude. :)

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