Comments on: Irwin’s New SpeedBor Max Drill Bits

by: Fred

Tue, 09 Oct 2007 17:59:12 +0000

Matching the bit to the job, I’ve always have used either Greenlee or Milwaukee self-feed bits to rough-in plumbing or wiring. A good 1/2 inch right angle Milwaukee Hole-Hawg drill supplies the torque - but hold onto that pipe side handle or the rear D-Handle (If I had 3 hands I’d be even better).
When torque-reaction is likely to be more than just a small problem - I reach for an old (Skil) electric impact wrench fitted with a 1/2 inch auxillairy chuck. This setup is not suitable for wimpy drill bits that lar likely to shatter - but with sturdy bits - the impact wrench just gives the bit a few hits - with very little transmitted back to the user.

by: wilco

Sat, 06 Oct 2007 12:39:12 +0000

Those Rockler bits look like they have parabolic flutes, which you normally find only on very expensive industrial quality metalworking drill bits from companies like Precision Twist Drill, Guhring, and so on. You can see examples in industrial catalogs that carry machinists tooling, e.g. MSC (www.mscdirect.com). Parabolic flutes give better chip clearance and hole finish for precision drilling.

Frankly, those Rockler bits seem like overkill for woodworking, especially rough hole drilling.

Personally, I don’t like bits with screw points because they can draw the bit too fast into the wood. I tried one with a good DeWalt 1/2″ drill, and the screw point was so aggressive in pulling the bit forward that the drill kept stalling. You really need a drill with a lot of torque for large self-feed bits to work, the kind of drills sold for that purpose.

Bosch came out with a traditional flat spade bit but with a screw point formed into the flat center point, a sort of hybrid self-feed/spade bit. I wonder how well they work.

by: Jon

Mon, 01 Oct 2007 04:50:06 +0000

I noticed that Rockler is now carrying their own entry in this same space. A bit difficult to tell much from the pictures, but these look like they might be a better solution to the same problem.
http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=240

by: Chaim

Mon, 01 Oct 2007 03:19:56 +0000

Just a note on Walter’s comment…these *DO NOT* work on hardwood. Get a forstner bit for hardwood. You’ll break your wrist or the bit before you get through. I’ve used them for running wire through studs and they work like a charm. They are “torquey” ask Eli said.

Never used the milwaukee, though now I’m tempted.

by: Walter Gorbach

Sun, 30 Sep 2007 01:44:05 +0000

I bought a set of these a while back when the first came out at Lowe’s. Have tried and tried to drill studs and rafters for wiring, but 90% of the time, these fail to go all the way through. The screw points don’t seem to run true, so most of the time the bit strips itself out before it can penetrate fully. Also the flutes clog terribly.
I suspect these would work better in some well seasoned hardwood, but when I’m working with pricey hardwoods, I’m usually looking for more accuracy than a bit of this style can deliver.
Stay with Irwin’s good old standard woodboring bits and you can’t go wrong. (or invest in a beautiful set of expensive selffeed bits)

by: Eli

Sat, 29 Sep 2007 13:26:15 +0000

These are alright, but you’re going all the way through if you use them. The lead screw is really long and just pulls the bit straight through. Snap your wrist if you aren’t ready for it, they’re so torquey (sp?)

by: PutnamEco

Sat, 29 Sep 2007 03:13:59 +0000

I’m telling you, try the Milwaukee’s, the Irwins work allright but the Milwaukees are Excellent. They cut the smoothest, stay sharp the longest, and bind the least.
The only downside is they are a pain to sharpen.
And they have larger sizes, to boot.

http://www.milwaukee-et.com/int\int_products.nsf/vwWebAccessoryLevel4/drilling-drill-bits-wood-selfeed-bits?OpenDocument&nav1=pro

by: Rob

Fri, 28 Sep 2007 19:15:17 +0000

Those look pretty nice. It’s hard to beat spade bits for economy when making big holes in wood but the next time I need a clean hole, I’m going to check these out.