Comments on: Tip: Our Top 5 DIY Car Stereo Installation Tips

by: Fong

Mon, 02 Jul 2007 23:18:42 +0000

If your stereo appears to be working but power cycles, shuts off for no reason or doesn’t work quite right, be sure you have the new stereo grounded to your car frame. I know there’s a ground wire on the factory harness but I’ve spent hours trying to debug weird in-line wire resistors (thanks Alpine!) because of a weak ground.

by: Crispy

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 06:16:22 +0000

On newer model cars, especially 95 and up, DO NOT CYCLE THE IGNITION after taking off the dash panel and unplugging harnesses for ac, traction control, etc. Some cars will throw an airbag light that you will have to go the dealer to get cleared. The dash panel being off is not important, its the harnesses that are unplugged and its hit or miss which cars will throw them. New Honda Odyssey will definatley throw one, 04 Fords you have to cycle the ignition to get the gear shift lever down to get the dash panel off, so it doesn’t throw a light. Just be careful and avoid cycling the ignition whenever possible.

by: TL

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:55:11 +0000

The special tool referred to by Fletcher above comes with most new new car stereo head units (it’s the U shaped dodads).

If you are unsure how to tear apart your dash / doors / side panels /etc. it is very much worth it to order the Crutchfield custom installation manual for your car. They sell them for $5 and have rather good drawings of where all the screws and clips are that you need to remove. Best $5 you can spend for a car you’re unsure of. Their head units and speakers are often more expensive than you will find online elsewhere, but their installation instructions are worth getting even if you buy the expensive stuff elsewhere.

Note: I’m not connected to Crutchfield in any way, just a satisfied customer.

by: Nate Bezanson

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:46:00 +0000

Ahh, the Ford removal tool. After seeing it in the store, we chopped some coathangers. Now, why they couldn’t simply use screws like everyone else is beyond me

There are plenty of car audio sites on the net, and some are very helpful. (I like The12volt.com) Also see if there’s a site dedicated to owners of your particular car. They’ll have model-specific advice for every situation, and you’ll frequently find service manuals and schematics posted for your perusal.

by: fjr

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:23:43 +0000

I suggest using “linerless splicing tape” such as

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/electronics_mfg/esm/node_PDVQFRP70Zbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_DPB1Q1MJ7Nge/gvel_4BSQ4C5VF8gl/theme_us_electronicsesm_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
and here …
http://makezine.com/pub/tool/Self_Fusing_Rubber_Splicing_Tape

(its available at home depot)
Its a soft rubbery tape that fuses with itself.

Me and my brother used it on our first radio install, did a great job. When we came back and took that radio out 3yrs later, the tape was still intact, it wasnt even sticky. I was able to remove the tape and actually Re-Use it !!!

Believe me you wont regret getting a roll of this stuff, and due to being able to stretch it over the connections a roll can last a LONG time. Even though it may seem expensive when you buy it.

by: dbett

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 22:26:11 +0000

If you have to tap into a DC power line, use a DC Noise filter to prevent some of the ‘buzz’ you might otherwise get.

by: Fletcher

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 20:21:19 +0000

Dismayed that you need a special tool to remove that stock Ford head unit? If it’s the variety that has two square holes on either side of the unit, simply bend two lengths of coat hanger wire into ‘U’ shapes, insert one in to each side, and pull out the unit.

by: Pat

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 17:55:26 +0000

Don’t assume that the wiring harness kits *are* actually right for your car, rather than just claim to be, and check that all of the functions work (power on & off) BEFORE you put the damned thing back together.

Yes, bloody obvious, and of course *I* would never fall into that sort of a beginners mistake

…grumble…

by: Vincent

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 17:46:09 +0000

always, ALWAYS, solder your harness, crimp connectors really become the weakest link in a install between the factory harness and the after market adapter. I don’t know how many friends cars I have had to *fix* this one small issue one. Invest in the 5$ it costs for heat shrink tubing as well, its well worth the insurance of knowing your install will be short free.

by: Kurt Schwind

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 17:09:16 +0000

A word to the wise: When running wires in the passenger area, but sure to check out your run with the seats all the way forward AND all the way back. Also fold down the seats that are able. You’ll be unhappy when you realize that the latch used to fold down a seat moves a bar across the top of a wire under the carpet.

by: Randy

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 16:31:02 +0000

On the reasembly, make sure that wires are not caught in places where they will be pinched or rubbed. Use zip ties for a clean wire bundle, especially if you have to make a long run (like outputs and power wires from the stereo unit to the amp in the trunk).