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	<title>Comments on: Finds: Power Bleeders</title>
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	<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/</link>
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	<pubDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2008 18:02:23 +0000</pubDate>
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		<item>
		<title>By: Keith</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-467326</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Aug 2008 19:33:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-467326</guid>
		<description>Sorry about the  very late comment, but I felt  I had to.

I've used the old fashioned two person method more times than my
wife and sons would like to recount, I'm sure (and screwed up a few
master cylinders in the process because I neglected to put a block
of wood under the pedal to keep the the master cylinder pistons from
moving too far and destroying the seals).  I've also used vacuum
bleeders, which work ok, but wear out your hands working the hand
pump if you're trying to do a full fluid change (most cars with ABS
recommend changing the brake fluid every 2 to 3 years).

I've been looking for a good alternative, but when I read about the
leak issues folks were having with some of the pressure bleeders
on this site and others, I figured I'd stick with vacuum bleeding.

However, from Kevin Kelly's Cool Tools site (http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/002938.php )
I learned of another pressure bleeder, Speedibleed, from Hi-Lo
Distributors (http://www.speedibleed.com/index.htm ) in Canada.

Their kit is used by a number of professional mechanics, but is
affordable enough for the DIYer (I paid $119 US for a kit with an
adapter for Japanese imports) .  Their master cylinder adapters
are metal, not plastic, so they don't bend as easily as some of the
other units.

Used it for the first time this weekend, and I don't know that
I'll ever try to bleed a brake system any other way.  The kit connects
to an inflated tire for the air source, and includes an adjustable
regulator that keeps the pressure down to a reasonable level (10 to
15 PSI is plenty to bleed most systems).  It only took about 30 minutes
to fully bleed all four brakes on my Honda Civic after I put fresh
fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and connected the unit per the
directions.  Oh, and the 14" tire I tapped for the air, it only dropped
about 3 PSI (from 29 PIS to 26 PSI).

I understand from the Speedibleed site that these kits also work on
hydraulic clutch master cylinders as well, with the right adapter.

Definitely worth a look if you do your own brake work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry about the  very late comment, but I felt  I had to.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve used the old fashioned two person method more times than my<br />
wife and sons would like to recount, I&#8217;m sure (and screwed up a few<br />
master cylinders in the process because I neglected to put a block<br />
of wood under the pedal to keep the the master cylinder pistons from<br />
moving too far and destroying the seals).  I&#8217;ve also used vacuum<br />
bleeders, which work ok, but wear out your hands working the hand<br />
pump if you&#8217;re trying to do a full fluid change (most cars with ABS<br />
recommend changing the brake fluid every 2 to 3 years).</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been looking for a good alternative, but when I read about the<br />
leak issues folks were having with some of the pressure bleeders<br />
on this site and others, I figured I&#8217;d stick with vacuum bleeding.</p>
<p>However, from Kevin Kelly&#8217;s Cool Tools site (http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/002938.php )<br />
I learned of another pressure bleeder, Speedibleed, from Hi-Lo<br />
Distributors (http://www.speedibleed.com/index.htm ) in Canada.</p>
<p>Their kit is used by a number of professional mechanics, but is<br />
affordable enough for the DIYer (I paid $119 US for a kit with an<br />
adapter for Japanese imports) .  Their master cylinder adapters<br />
are metal, not plastic, so they don&#8217;t bend as easily as some of the<br />
other units.</p>
<p>Used it for the first time this weekend, and I don&#8217;t know that<br />
I&#8217;ll ever try to bleed a brake system any other way.  The kit connects<br />
to an inflated tire for the air source, and includes an adjustable<br />
regulator that keeps the pressure down to a reasonable level (10 to<br />
15 PSI is plenty to bleed most systems).  It only took about 30 minutes<br />
to fully bleed all four brakes on my Honda Civic after I put fresh<br />
fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and connected the unit per the<br />
directions.  Oh, and the 14&#8243; tire I tapped for the air, it only dropped<br />
about 3 PSI (from 29 PIS to 26 PSI).</p>
<p>I understand from the Speedibleed site that these kits also work on<br />
hydraulic clutch master cylinders as well, with the right adapter.</p>
<p>Definitely worth a look if you do your own brake work.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-148289</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:23:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-148289</guid>
		<description>I have a 94 Integra.  Like vader, I was unable to get it to seal properly.  I spent hours trying but was unsuccessful.  I think the flaw in the model that uses the chain around the master cylinder (like the Universal model I have) is that the clamp piece is made out of plastic and it bows in the middle when tightened causing it to leak.  The instructions say to finger tighten the wing nuts, but I couldn't get any pressure at all at that tightness.  If the piece were made out of metal I think this product would work.  I'd steer clear of the model that uses the chains.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 94 Integra.  Like vader, I was unable to get it to seal properly.  I spent hours trying but was unsuccessful.  I think the flaw in the model that uses the chain around the master cylinder (like the Universal model I have) is that the clamp piece is made out of plastic and it bows in the middle when tightened causing it to leak.  The instructions say to finger tighten the wing nuts, but I couldn&#8217;t get any pressure at all at that tightness.  If the piece were made out of metal I think this product would work.  I&#8217;d steer clear of the model that uses the chains.</p>
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		<title>By: vader</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-26623</link>
		<dc:creator>vader</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Feb 2007 03:41:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-26623</guid>
		<description>I was unable to get this thing to seal properly (it just clamps onto the master cylinder) and it leaked brake fluid onto my alternator and ruined it. I don't recommend this... it's worth doing things the old fashioned way, or maybe those speed bleeders are the way to go. Anything that clamps on with chain and a rubber gasket and pumps pressurized corrosive fluid is a recipe for disaster.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was unable to get this thing to seal properly (it just clamps onto the master cylinder) and it leaked brake fluid onto my alternator and ruined it. I don&#8217;t recommend this&#8230; it&#8217;s worth doing things the old fashioned way, or maybe those speed bleeders are the way to go. Anything that clamps on with chain and a rubber gasket and pumps pressurized corrosive fluid is a recipe for disaster.</p>
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		<title>By: Rick</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-21185</link>
		<dc:creator>Rick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:17:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-21185</guid>
		<description>Ok. I know I'm resurrecting an old post. and I don't know if anyone will even see this.. but I had a friend recommend this MityVac bleeder. It's available at Sears for $34.99 - http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947058000&#38;vertical=Sears&#38;BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
and it operates under much the same concept as the one above - only cheaper.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ok. I know I&#8217;m resurrecting an old post. and I don&#8217;t know if anyone will even see this.. but I had a friend recommend this MityVac bleeder. It&#8217;s available at Sears for $34.99 - <a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947058000&amp;vertical=Sears&amp;BV_UseBVCookie=Yes" rel="nofollow">http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947058000&amp;vertical=Sears&amp;BV_UseBVCookie=Yes</a><br />
and it operates under much the same concept as the one above - only cheaper.</p>
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		<title>By: Chuck Cage</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-8527</link>
		<dc:creator>Chuck Cage</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Dec 2006 16:48:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-8527</guid>
		<description>For those not familiar with speed bleeders: They're one-way-valves that replace the standard bleed valve so that when unscrewed, they open under pressure and close automatically to prevent air from entering the system.

James:  Speed bleeders are pretty popular, and they do simplify the job, but you still have to have someone down on the wheelwell to look for bubbles -- or you have to just pump a ton of fluid out.  What I like about power bleeding is that it lets you stay down by the bleed valve when bleeding by yourself.

When I was racing in college, we used speed bleeders on the race car because there were always two of us and it kept us from accidentally getting air in the system when we were rushing to bleed the brakes between each session.  (Starting over wasn't a good thing!)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For those not familiar with speed bleeders: They&#8217;re one-way-valves that replace the standard bleed valve so that when unscrewed, they open under pressure and close automatically to prevent air from entering the system.</p>
<p>James:  Speed bleeders are pretty popular, and they do simplify the job, but you still have to have someone down on the wheelwell to look for bubbles &#8212; or you have to just pump a ton of fluid out.  What I like about power bleeding is that it lets you stay down by the bleed valve when bleeding by yourself.</p>
<p>When I was racing in college, we used speed bleeders on the race car because there were always two of us and it kept us from accidentally getting air in the system when we were rushing to bleed the brakes between each session.  (Starting over wasn&#8217;t a good thing!)</p>
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		<title>By: james b</title>
		<link>http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-8460</link>
		<dc:creator>james b</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Dec 2006 04:18:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://toolmonger.com/2006/12/22/finds-power-bleeders/#comment-8460</guid>
		<description>Speed bleeders have a check valve built into the bleeder screw.  I just put some on my Jeep and was able to bleed the fronts until clean new fluid came out.  They sell a silicone hose that works better than the vinyl hose I was using with a jar before getting these.  I would recommend the speed bleeders over this contraption.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Speed bleeders have a check valve built into the bleeder screw.  I just put some on my Jeep and was able to bleed the fronts until clean new fluid came out.  They sell a silicone hose that works better than the vinyl hose I was using with a jar before getting these.  I would recommend the speed bleeders over this contraption.</p>
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