Getting Started Welding: A Comparison of 14 Flux-Core/MIG Welders
By Chuck CageFlux-Core vs. MIG
From a performance standpoint, MIG welding offers a cleaner weld than flux-core, which means less grinding in the finishing stage and less chipping/brushing to remove flux before re-welding a joint. But the added advantage of shielding gas comes with a cost both in terms of complexity and dollars.
The welders listed here come in three variants: flux-core only, MIG conversion capable, and MIG ready. MIG-ready units come with the co-axial torch cable, regulator, and other materials necessary to hook up your gas bottle to the unit, while “conversion capable” units require an additionally-sold kit to convert to MIG use.
Most of the MIG units in our comparison are sold as “ready to weld” with flux-core wire. To MIG weld, you’ll need to add solid-core wire (not a big deal as it’s even cheaper than flux-core) and a gas bottle (which is a big deal as it’ll likely cost $100-$200 to rent). And while you might be able to get away by tying the bottle to the wall for a short time, eventually you’re going to want a cart to carry the welder and bottle to make things simple. (Either way you’ll need to secure the bottle carefully, as the high pressure contained within — as much as 2000+ PSI — can turn that heavy bottle into a missle, as anyone who’s seen an episode of the A-Team can attest.)
An additional advantage to MIG welding is the ability to eventually swap in different wire and different gas combinations to allow you to weld materials other than mild steel, such as aluminum and stainless.
Your choice here really comes down to how much you’d like to invest and what you intend to do with your welder. If you’re going to be working with mild steel only and want to make the minimum possible investment, a flux-core unit will work fine for you. They’re simpler to use, more compact, and some of the lowest-priced units. If you think you might want to move on to MIG welding later, consider picking up a conversion-capable unit. Or if you’re ready to jump in with both feet, go ahead and get a MIG-ready welder.
Key Manufacturer Specs
Welding Amperage/Duty Cycle
The most basic component of a welder is its power supply. You’ll note that the welders listed above all put out far more amperage than the 20A that they draw from the wall. To accomplish this, the welder stores up power internally and provides it to the gun when you pull the trigger, sort of like a water tower stores up water from a slow source (like a lake) and provides faster flow during peak need. Obviously the welder can’t put out a greater amperage than it takes in forever; it must ”take a break” every so often to recharge.
Correction: As reader Cybergibbons commented below (and numerous others emailed to us), our analogy isn’t quite right here. The welder doesn’t as much store energy to provide greater amperage as it does step down the line voltage. Therefore, duty cycle (described in the next few paragraphs) is determined not by power storage capability, but rather by the thermal capabilities of the various power supply components. Thanks for setting us straight!
Manufacturers provide two specifications to give you an idea of how capable the unit is at storing and delivering power: welding amperage and duty cycle.
Duty cycle is a measurement of how many minutes out of ten you can weld with the unit before it must stop to recharge. For example, if the unit could weld for two minutes out of every ten, it would be said to have a 20% duty cycle. Clearly the duty cycle will change based on the amperage load, so any duty cycle measurement will be fixed at a particular amperage. For example, you might see a duty cycle listed as 20% @ 90A.
Welding amperage indicates the range of amperage that the unit can provide under the most extreme conditions. To put all this into perspective, consider a welder spec’d at 30-120A welding amperage with a 20% @ 90A duty cycle. While you can weld at 120A (to handle thicker material), this particular welder will operate at a lower duty cycle than the listed 20% above 90A. However, at 30A you’ll likely see a far greater usage percentage.
One way to tell a quality welder is by a longer duty cycle, but be sure to compare apples to apples. A welder with a 20% @ 70A duty cycle doesn’t compare favorably to a welder with 20% @ 90A. On some of the least expensive units you’ll often find duty cycle specificed at 60A or less, which isn’t enough to handle the thicknesses you’re most likely to see in basic steel fabrication.
Weld Thickness
Higher amperage allows you to place more heat into the metal, and therefore allows you to weld thicker material. You’ll note in the comparison chart that weld thickness corresponds almost directly to amperage range, where units with the widest amp range can tackle the widest range of thicknesses.
Watch out for spec sheets that show the ability to weld much thicker material than other welders with comparable amperage ranges; usually this means that they’ve included “multi-pass” welds in their spec. (By making additional passes, it’s possible to weld material thicker than your welder can penetrate in a single pass.) While this is useful information, you’ll want to make sure you’re comparing single-pass to single-pass or multi-pass to multi-pass.
Gun Length, Ground Length, and Power Cord Length
While not super critical, longer cables give you the ability to work farther away from the wall plug — a useful capability. Many of the units listed here offer 8′ or 10′ gun cables, and you can easily find the length of the other cables in the product manuals.
Read the Product Manual
An important note: the product manual often provides much more information than you’ll find on the box or in an online product description. When you’re shopping, the best way to get the real “scoop” is to download and read the product manual. The manuals for virtually all the welders listed here are available from the manufacturers online and contain complete specs, parts lists, and lots of other details.
Read on for our recommendations.















June 15th, 2006 at 8:07 am
[...] In yesterday’s comparison post we gave you the information you need to select an entry-level flux-core/MIG welder for your shop. In today’s follow-up, we’ll walk you through using one of the welders from the comparison to build an inexpensive game chair to make playing GT4 or Forenza a lot more fun. [...]
June 15th, 2006 at 3:17 pm
The water tower analogy with the duty cycle in this article isn’t correct - the welder doesn’t have any significant amount of energy storage inside it. The reason the current is higher is because the voltage has been stepped down. The duty cycle is because the wires and components aren’t rated at full current and would overheat if used all of the time.
June 15th, 2006 at 3:18 pm
You may want to dig a little deeper into the theory of operation for welder power supplies. Duty cycle is dependant on the ability of the welder to cool it self, not the amount of electricity it is “storing”. MIG welders work by taking wall voltage and stepping it down (usually with a transformer) to the voltage you are going to be welding at, then rectifying it to DC. Other than the energy stored in the magnetic field of the transformer and perhaps a few capacitors here and there, no energy is stored for later use.
June 16th, 2006 at 8:30 am
The Hobart Handler 125 EZ can be had for $354.89 at Sears. Thanks for the article, I’ve been looking for some advise like this as I really want to buy a welder.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@0143703178.1150464535@@@@&BV_EngineID=cckcaddidekhhemcegecegjdghldfom.0&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0093600100004900085&pid=00946848000 ” target=”_blank”>Here’s the Sears link.
June 16th, 2006 at 4:14 pm
[...] Getting Started Welding: A Comparison of 14 Flux-Core/MIG Welders (June 14, 2006) If you’ve been wanting to jump in and start welding, now’s the time. Wire welding’s a whole lot easier than stick welding, and prices have dropped to the point where we found a number of great wire welders for under $500. [...]
August 2nd, 2006 at 9:59 am
You should do an additional story on welding aluminum with a MIG welder. Do the same chair but with aluminum.
August 31st, 2006 at 7:41 pm
Excellent article !
Now I don’t have to spend hours explaining welding to my brother !!!
December 23rd, 2006 at 10:28 am
actually you are wrong in stating that a mig welder will weld thicker material than fluxcore. fluxcore will weld thicker metal better with better penetration than mig all other things being equal
March 10th, 2008 at 4:08 pm
Thanks, even with the small error’s re stored energy and flux vs mig for penatration and weld material thickness your explanation is very helpful. It should make a newbiees decision easier!!!
July 20th, 2008 at 12:36 pm
Great article - helped me a lot. Yeah, there’s a couple of factual errors that should be fixed… but they don’t affect the target audience (welding newbies) - so lighten up people. I get tired of the know-it-alls who just HAVE to make believe they’re smarter than they guy who did the research. Let’s see YOU crank out some articles that help others, instead of just blowing smoke up everyone’s arses. Bottom line, this was an informative, info-dense piece that is going to help a lot of people who want to get in to welding. Good job!
July 20th, 2008 at 12:37 pm
Oh…and PS…. let’s see you know-it-alls do all of the above for what Chuck got paid for this.. probably $0.
August 29th, 2008 at 7:55 am
Thank you for posting this entry level welder comparison article. After reading this article and the Lincoln electric manuals/literature I still cannot figure out the difference between the Lincoln 140C and 140T models. I understand that the C is for “continuous start” and the T is for “Tap start”. Please explain what this means and how it applies to welding.
Thanks;
Scott
January 4th, 2009 at 4:50 pm
I’m coming in a bit down the road, here, but I’ve been researching for a bigger 110v welder. I just read (somehwere) the ‘C’ stands for rheostat. Brand wise I’m leaning toward a lincoln either the Weldpac 3200hd, Power mig 140, or Pro mig 140. Cept I can’t quite see the significance between these verses the money difference. If in doubt go for the middle one, I guess. Enjoyed the comment’s.